Tubular A-arms w/ Stock Springs?

[Italian LX]

At one time, I seem to remember seeing a set of tubular A-arms for a 79-93 Mustang that had a spring perch for use with the stock K-member and springs. I’ve been looking online this morning but can't seem to find them. I believe I saw them in a magazine, so I’ll check tonight when I get home.

Am I mistaken, or can someone point me in the right direction?

[Sendero]

http://www.ajeracing.com/mustang.htm

There has been discussion as to whether any K-member designed for Drag Duty would hold up to the rigors of street driving. I haven't heard of any street induced failures with the AJE. As for the others, well they have their own issues.

Of course you could go to an MM K (not Griggs) for street duty. But then you have to go to coil-overs in the front.

[Italian LX]

http://www.ajeracing.com/mustang.htm
Thanks, Nathan. :nice:

Btw, here's a catalog page that is a little easier to read.

http://www.swracecars.com/pdf/CATpg22.pdf

[coupe]

Be careful. CA's take alot of abuse & if not a certain gauge and material...SNAP.

[Sendero]

http://forums.bamamafia.com/index.php?showtopic=9341&hl=k-member

Don't forget about this thread too!

[slvrbullit]

About a year or so ago there was a guy on corral or stangnet that had an AJE fail on him backin out of a parking space after a previous day of driving to the track and driving home. He had pics and all and it turned out to be a material failure on the A-arm and not a weld. I dont know what ever happened with it but I think they made good on the deal in the end. It really messed his car up and the front tire folded up and back into the fender. Beware of the material you choose to run.

[Sendero]

About a year or so ago there was a guy on corral or stangnet that had an AJE fail on him backin out of a parking space after a previous day of driving to the track and driving home. He had pics and all and it turned out to be a material failure on the A-arm and not a weld. I dont know what ever happened with it but I think they made good on the deal in the end. It really messed his car up and the front tire folded up and back into the fender. Beware of the material you choose to run.

Wasn't this determined to be because of Chromemoly? I think that I have heard of multiple (street) failures on Chromemoly K-members and arms. IMO, chromemoly is a trailer queen only K-member. Mild Steel is the way to go on a street driven car.

[slvrbullit]

I think it was Moly nathan, at the time that is all AJE offered. I have talked with UPR extensively about their K-members and they are all Moly steel also and I asked them about daily driving and they said they have had not problems with it. I am still leary on the moly steel k-members unless drag only, but I have been lookin at the QA1 setup now and am contemplating goin that route since you can get the whole front end from Seco for around $1k.

[Craig K.]

Brian,

I remember the system which your talking about from say about 5 years or so ago, where you could run the A-Arms and the tubular K-Member with the conventional spring.

For the life of me I can't remember who made it though.

Why wouldn't you want to switch to a coil-over anyhow, if your going to put on a tubular a-arm?

[QWKSNKE]

He is thinking of replacing the a-arms because the bushings are wore out in his factory ones. Figured while he was at it he could go ahead and swap to tubular arms then swap to the k-member/coil overs when money permits

[Craig K.]

He is thinking of replacing the a-arms because the bushings are wore out in his factory ones. Figured while he was at it he could go ahead and swap to tubular arms then swap to the k-member/coil overs when money permits

You could just replace the bushings now, then buy all 3 pieces as a kit, I would think that would be a cheaper route?

On a side note, I run a poly busing in my front Ford arms.

[QWKSNKE]

What about the D&D stuff Brian?

[96GTS]

D&D is waaaaay better than the QA1 front susp IMO. I had QA1 for a month and I couldnt wait to put my D&D back on. The only exception is the QA1 struts b/c the strut body is threaded for C/Os and you dont need a sleeve.

[Wickd GT]

What about the D&D stuff Brian?

Stay away from D&D K members. On an SN95 and up for some reason they nail it, but in the fox cars they could not get their shit together, the pads of the motor mounts are not position right(they still have not corrected it) and if you decide to go with long tubes they have clearance issues, now I said this is in the fox bodies. If you go with the QA1, the only thing is, it will put the tire towards the front, meaning your tires are going to scrub when you turn at the front of the fender, and you will need caster camber plates to get a good aligment. You want a good k member and a arms that are on the money? Go here


http://www.paracing.net/

Edgar