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View Full Version : QA1 K-member and A-arms.


96GTS
02-24-2005, 01:15 PM
Crap :notnice: :notnice:

First of all, when I put it on, my pass tire was toed in BAD. So I manually adjusted the tie rod end to get it good enough to take it to the alignment shop. After getting it straight, there was only ~ 1" of thread inside the rod end.

So I go to work and afterwards I'm walking to my car and it looks kind of weird. I look at it from down low head on and the whole driver wheel is stuck out like an inch from my previous setup. The pass side was fine.

Also, the bushings on the A-arms suck IMO. Too spongy and the body roll was probably 3x worse than my D&D setup. My front wheels were rubbing on every turn, no matter what speed. The QA1 leans more with the swaybar than the D&D setup does WITHOUT a sway bar!

I also dont like how they make you grind the head of the rear A-arm bolts to clear the K member.

Heres a pic showing the pass and driver side wheels. Look at how the top of the pass tire is tucked in normal. Also notice the difference in how much tread sticks out. both pics were taken from the door handle.
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/1619/img_0050.jpg

Put the D&D back in and I'm much happier. :nice: :nice: :banana:

coupe
02-24-2005, 01:43 PM
Taylor (at Walker dynotune) has the QA1 with stock A arms. Loves it.
Tell me: does the D&D work with factory struts, A arms, oil pan, steering rack???

96GTS
02-24-2005, 01:58 PM
Taylor (at Walker dynotune) has the QA1 with stock A arms. Loves it.
Tell me: does the D&D work with factory struts, A arms, oil pan, steering rack???
The D&D works with the stock oil pan and steering rack. Dont know if it works w/ the stock A-arms. Never tried it. Do the factory struts work w/ C/Os? If they do, then it will work. I have Lakewood 90/10s.

CrazyInBlack
02-24-2005, 04:58 PM
man that pic trips me out

Wickd GT
02-25-2005, 07:08 AM
The QA1 k member puts the tires out a bit more and about an 1" foward, giving the car a bit more of wheel base, for it to work you need to have a good set of Caster camber plates to align right. If you read the instructions it tells you that the k member puts the wheels that way. I have a QA1 on mine and that is the first thing I noticed and got me set of HP caster camber plates and that was all it tooked, I have stock a Arms on mine. If you installed the tubular a arms you need to tight them with the weight of the car on the suspension then do your hight before you take it to the aligment shop, I mean if you have coil overs. That is why your tied rod ends will not get into the same way there were with your D&D K member, it puts the tire out and futher to the front. About the bolt at the back been grind that is no problem, mine has not moved at all, and it has been there for about 2.5 years.


Edgar

NightHawk756
02-25-2005, 09:15 AM
Yeah, I had a QA1 in my coupe. I also had to grind the bolt heads to get them to fit. But I also ran into problems using the stock a-arms with mine. Although I can't seem to remember what the problems was. I ended up using their c/overs, struts and a-arms. I specifically didn't like the mounting "tabs" for the a-arms. That's why I have an AJE coming for my '95. The a-arm is actually incorporated into the k-member not on flimsy tabs.

But I agree with Edgar, the alignment problems I had with the QA1 were simply adjusted with my Maximum Motorsports C/C plates. ;)

96GTS
02-25-2005, 11:06 AM
The QA1 k member puts the tires out a bit more and about an 1" foward, giving the car a bit more of wheel base, for it to work you need to have a good set of Caster camber plates to align right. If you read the instructions it tells you that the k member puts the wheels that way. I have a QA1 on mine and that is the first thing I noticed and got me set of HP caster camber plates and that was all it tooked, I have stock a Arms on mine. If you installed the tubular a arms you need to tight them with the weight of the car on the suspension then do your hight before you take it to the aligment shop, I mean if you have coil overs. That is why your tied rod ends will not get into the same way there were with your D&D K member, it puts the tire out and futher to the front. About the bolt at the back been grind that is no problem, mine has not moved at all, and it has been there for about 2.5 years.


Edgar
You didnt read it right. It pushed ONLY the driver's side out. The pass side was fine (see the pic).

I have MM C/C plates and the shop that does it did all my dad's SCCA cars (along with many of the project cars for Nissan Motorsports) when he was out here so the errors were not in the alignment. It drove perfect, just looked like crap. And like I said before, it had way too much body roll compared to the delrin(i think) bushings in the D&D kit.

Purple1995Pony
02-25-2005, 03:24 PM
maybe you just got a retarded reject??? :dunno: are you using OE a-arms or tubular w/C/O?

not enough information about your car to process it all.... :jester:

96GTS
02-25-2005, 03:43 PM
maybe you just got a retarded reject??? :dunno: are you using OE a-arms or tubular w/C/O?

not enough information about your car to process it all.... :jester:
Quite possibly, but its enough to keep me from ever buying one again. Because of the circumstances in which I got it, it was free, but if I were to of bought it, I would be out $700. That is enough for me to say it sucks.

Craig K.
02-26-2005, 05:42 AM
So what are you going to do with it, perhaps you could give it over to me for free, I'll pay for shipping :)

Wickd GT
02-26-2005, 06:16 AM
So what are you going to do with it, perhaps you could give it over to me for free, I'll pay for shipping :)

Since it was free then nothing to gripe about, but mine did the same thing. What it was needed was to open the holes where the k member bolts to the frame and I moved it towards the left and center, this was done at the aligment shop, and that is all it took. About the A arms, the stock ones to be used with this k member you have to grind so the a arm would not hit the K member whne it extends, and that is what I have on mine, it took me around an hour and a half to do everything.


Edgar


And let me tell you, the D&D k member is the worst one out there, because of clearance for Long tube headers and the way it puts the motor mount pads all out of wack, I don't know about the SN95, but in the fox bodies they shure suck. If you going for a K member get the Performance Automotive out at Indiana, is the best K member out there.

svopaul
02-26-2005, 04:29 PM
So what are you going to do with it, perhaps you could give it over to me for free, I'll pay for shipping :)

OK Craig....you need a new C/T that reads "You got anything for Free??" :poke: :jester:

96GTS
02-26-2005, 07:42 PM
The D&D fits perfect w/ my LTs.

I'm not complaining about the cost to performance ratio. I'm griping about the quality which, IMO, sucks. I shouldnt have to modify it to fit. If I were to oval out the holes, it would put the top of the K member (the part that fits against the frame) and it would of stuck into the engine bay, which, surprise!, would've interfered w/ my LTs.

The only thing I liked about it was that there was more room around the steering rack which the D&D cuts it close.

I've installed a UPR, 2 different D&Ds and an MM K-member. All of which fit square with the holes that they came with.

Paul comes on here bashing the Dense charger b/c its simply made w/ cheap materials, I comment on an actual faulty product and its an arguement.

WTF is this section here for anyways?

96GTS
02-26-2005, 07:45 PM
So what are you going to do with it, perhaps you could give it over to me for free, I'll pay for shipping :)
You dont have a 4.6:P

I was supposed to give a guy my D&D b/c his turbo kit was designed with the D&D. So he bought me the QA1. The D&D kits were on BO. But when I had my issues, I told him it wasnt worth it for me to screw up my car and he'll have to find one by other means. I was already out $100+ out of pocket for the alignments....So he has it back now and I think sold it to someone...

NightHawk756
02-26-2005, 08:07 PM
I agree. I feel that if you buy a K-member or anything for that matter that's made for a specific application, then you should never have to modify it. Although it seems an all too common practice in this sport.:nono:

QWKSNKE
02-26-2005, 09:59 PM
Paul comes on here bashing the Dense charger b/c its simply made w/ cheap materials, I comment on an actual faulty product and its an arguement.

WTF is this section here for anyways?


You are right. I have been out away from the computer for the last few days. This forum was created for any individuals product review. Not for discussions or debates. That is what the other tech sections were created for.