Now I'm really frustrated...

[Wickd GT]

Well, Cheo and I worked on his car today, almost all day. After we put an electrical water gauge and had it all wire up, we fire the car up. I told him that the car is cold and that it has not been driven and that I had to take the water sending unit out and that maybe it will trap air. So, I told him to go drive it around town around 45 mph, cruise around and come back, put an eye on the water temperature. When he got back, I open the hood and guess what! The damn catch can is up to the neck and bubbles in it. This is after the heads were milled, the highest was 155* but the damn motor is still pushing air through the cooling system. I burp it with the safety handle that the radiator cap has and the only thing you can hear is air. I did not open the radiator cap to see if tonight will pulled it back into the motor. I don't know what else to do hear, we been at for 10 straight days with this car. He saw me when I saw the catch can full and smell the catch can, it smell like exhaust, I broke a big flash light and almost broke my hand hitting my work bench. I'm going to drive it tomorrow, if the shit continues, I either going to sell the car, or take the heads off and sent them back to the guy I bought them from (50Joe) and wait until I can get some money and buy a set of aluminum heads. F..k ME!!!!

Edgar

[QWKSNKE]

Are you sure that its not just air pockets working out from putting fresh coolant in? Are you running the engine with the radiator cap off until the thermostat cycles?


Are you still running stock replacement head gaskets? I had a similar problem when I ran those stupid ass Cometics

[97cobrasvt]

I had one that I swear took about 400 miles to get all the air out of the system. I worked on it and work untill I said f*** it and drove it just kept an eye on the water level and it finally worked it's way out.

[SvoBrown]

Jack the front of the car up 3 or 4 feet and let it run/ well maybe not the far. This helped me on the svo when I had problems with air bubbles. Works on hondas too.

[Wickd GT]

Are you sure that its not just air pockets working out from putting fresh coolant in? Are you running the engine with the radiator cap off until the thermostat cycles?


Are you still running stock replacement head gaskets? I had a similar problem when I ran those stupid ass Cometics

I got stock replacement felpro head gaskets, everything is new! I guess I'll run it and see what happens. The motor pulls real hard, and does not get hot. Man I sure hope is air pockets in the system.


Edgar

[qkjuicedpony]

Edgar,


remove the radiator cap and then remove the sending unit located in the water rail going to the heater core.once you have done this take a funnel and some coolant and backfill the cooling system through the hole where the sensor is located.it will burp the system of any air and you should be ok.

[Italian LX]

Well, Cheo and I worked on his car today, almost all day. After we put an electrical water gauge and had it all wire up, we fire the car up. I told him that the car is cold and that it has not been driven and that I had to take the water sending unit out and that maybe it will trap air. So, I told him to go drive it around town around 45 mph, cruise around and come back, put an eye on the water temperature. When he got back, I open the hood and guess what! The damn catch can is up to the neck and bubbles in it. This is after the heads were milled, the highest was 155* but the damn motor is still pushing air through the cooling system. I burp it with the safety handle that the radiator cap has and the only thing you can hear is air. I did not open the radiator cap to see if tonight will pulled it back into the motor. I don't know what else to do hear, we been at for 10 straight days with this car. He saw me when I saw the catch can full and smell the catch can, it smell like exhaust, I broke a big flash light and almost broke my hand hitting my work bench. I'm going to drive it tomorrow, if the shit continues, I either going to sell the car, or take the heads off and sent them back to the guy I bought them from (50Joe) and wait until I can get some money and buy a set of aluminum heads. F..k ME!!!!

Edgar

Have you flushed the cooling system like I recommended?

I can tell you that a different set of heads won't change anything. It's not the heads that is causing the issue, it's just the water trapped in the sytem.

[Italian LX]

I had one that I swear took about 400 miles to get all the air out of the system.
Yeah, I've already told edgar how hard it was to get the air out everytime I've done a head swap.

That is the reaon I suggested the coolant flush system with a water hose. Works everytime.

[EHardy1971]

Edgar,you never did say if you had the burp hole in the thermostat or not.If you don't,drill a 3/16" hole in it 1/4" from the edge,then put the hole at the 12 o'clock position.This will also get any trapped air out,I've had to do it before myself,and some new ones come with a little check valve in them just for this!

[Craig K.]

Edgar,you never did say if you had the burp hole in the thermostat or not.If you don't,drill a 3/16" hole in it 1/4" from the edge,then put the hole at the 12 o'clock position.This will also get any trapped air out,I've had to do it before myself,and some new ones come with a little check valve in them just for this!

Edgar I too have done this before, I would recommend trying this method.

[Wickd GT]

The thermostat is a 160, and it has about 3 holes around the inside edge, thats the way it came. QJP, do I do this with the motor cold right? Brian the flush thing, I just don't want to make a mess with this coolant. Another thing, I had to by pass the heater core, I put a 180* water hose so the coolant can circulate through thta pipe. I even retorque the damn heads today.

Edgar

[Purple1995Pony]

The thermostat is a 160, and it has about 3 holes around the inside edge, thats the way it came. QJP, do I do this with the motor cold right? Brian the flush thing, I just don't want to make a mess with this coolant. Another thing, I had to by pass the heater core, I put a 180* water hose so the coolant can circulate through thta pipe. I even retorque the damn heads today.

Edgar


buy one of those cheap Prestone flush kits. they come with the tees for the heater hose and a spout for the radiator that snaps in the radiator fill and you can clamp a garden hose to it so you don't make a mess in the engine bay.

[Italian LX]

Brian the flush thing, I just don't want to make a mess with this coolant.
Just drain the coolant and then flush it with the water. When your done, you can add the coolant in the radiator (with the T-fitting still in lace) and it will force ater out the T while the coolant is added into the radiator. The directions for this are on the package.

However, if you refuse to do the flush system, then I have no more suggestions for you and you'll just have to wait it out and possibly be burping the system for days.

Btw, I've tried the "hole in the thermostat" thing and, although it helps some, there is still a good bit of work required to get all of the air out of the system.

. . the flush method that I preach will get all the air out from the beginning.

[banditmwp]

Just drain the coolant and then flush it with the water. When your done, you can add the coolant in the radiator (with the T-fitting still in lace) and it will force ater out the T while the coolant is added into the radiator. The directions for this are on the package.

However, if you refuse to do the flush system, then I have no more suggestions for you and you'll just have to wait it out and possibly be burping the system for days.

Btw, I've tried the "hole in the thermostat" thing and, although it helps some, there is still a good bit of work required to get all of the air out of the system.

. . the flush method that I preach will get all the air out from the beginning.

:stupid:

[BAD INT]

160 thermostat why so cold?

[EHardy1971]

Btw, I've tried the "hole in the thermostat" thing and, although it helps some, there is still a good bit of work required to get all of the air out of the system.

. . the flush method that I preach will get all the air out from the beginning.
I agree with you on this Brian,don't get me wrong!,I have the same setups on my truck,and the wife's Exploder.What I was driving at with the burp hole,is that it is a good backup to have for the fact that when the water in the block gets hot/under pressure,it gives an escape route for the air that might possibly be/get in the system.:nice:

[Italian LX]

160 thermostat why so cold?
I agree. I remember reading that but then forgot to comment about it.

That's way too cold for an EFI car, Edgar.

[Wickd GT]

I agree. I remember reading that but then forgot to comment about it.

That's way too cold for an EFI car, Edgar.

Why is that? It gets hot in this state, why go hire? Does it afect the computer?

Edgar

[QWKSNKE]

optimum is 180* on just about any 'street' car and especially on a EFI car.

I told Edgar on the phone today that if nothing else, run the car with radiator cap off until the thermostat cycles, refill with coolant, and put the cap on and drive it. This has always worked for me.

I also told him to get worrying about that stupid overflow tank level. That seems to be his concern now.

[Italian LX]

Why is that? It gets hot in this state, why go hire? Does it afect the computer?

Edgar
Actually, a 160* thermostat can make a car run hotter because the water doesn't stay in the radiator long enough to cool off.

[EHardy1971]

Actually, a 160* thermostat can make a car run hotter because the water doesn't stay in the radiator long enough to cool off.
actually,it's right the opposite.It does'nt allow the coolant to stay in the block long enough to get up to operating temp.

[Italian LX]

actually,it's right the opposite.It does'nt allow the coolant to stay in the block long enough to get up to operating temp.
How would that make the car run hotter? :think:

[EHardy1971]

How would that make the car run hotter? :think:
It should make it run cooler.In a EFI engine,anything cooler than 180* will keep the ECU in open loop,making it run rich,etc.What I was saying is that by running a 160* t-stat,will keep the coolant inside the block itself from getting up to temp,instead of the other way around by it not being in the radiator long enough.I tried running a 160* in mine a few years ago,and froze my ass off when the weather turned cold!

[Italian LX]

It should make it run cooler.In a EFI engine,anything cooler than 180* will keep the ECU in open loop,making it run rich,etc.What I was saying is that by running a 160* t-stat,will keep the coolant inside the block itself from getting up to temp,instead of the other way around by it not being in the radiator long enough.I tried running a 160* in mine a few years ago,and froze my ass off when the weather turned cold!
That may be true in the winter time, but in the summer, a 160 will actually make a car run hotter than a 180 for the reason I said earlier.

[BAD INT]

160 will not let coolant do its job and it will make it run rich bad/bad
a 160 sometimes will be perfect but very rare, 180 seems to be optimum like both of you guys are saying.most of your better balanced thermostats in stores have the bleed hole some with a ball bearing,almost all robertshaw stats have them but if yours doesnt it is well worth drilling.Drilling the tstat is an old trick and still proving itself worthfull so much they come that way now.If you have a trick aftermarket tstat housing with a plug you can remove it works very well also but is a little messy.

[QWKSNKE]

That may be true in the winter time, but in the summer, a 160 will actually make a car run hotter than a 180 for the reason I said earlier.

yep. The thermostat will not stay closed long enough. Especially in traffic

[QWKSNKE]

It should make it run cooler.In a EFI engine,anything cooler than 180* will keep the ECU in open loop,making it run rich,etc.What I was saying is that by running a 160* t-stat,will keep the coolant inside the block itself from getting up to temp,instead of the other way around by it not being in the radiator long enough.I tried running a 160* in mine a few years ago,and froze my ass off when the weather turned cold!

Only times 02's are in open loop is during initial startup (90-120 seconds after cranking) and WOT

[Wickd GT]

Well, the car seems to be working fine, so far. The highest it got was 155* on the electrical autometer gauge. So I'll will change the thermostat and put a 180* on it.

Edgar

[coupe]

:nice:
If you can't get it worked out Edgar, bring it up here...$20/hr for you! :jester:

[EHardy1971]

Only times 02's are in open loop is during initial startup (90-120 seconds after cranking) and WOT
But does'nt the coolant temp sensor work in conjunction with the O2's,as well as the rest of the sensors? It's been awhile since I looked in my Ford fuel injection book,but I thought it was.:think: