Pedestal mount limits

[Mr.Slave]

I have the old twisted wedge heads with the pedestal mount setup. I know these are weaker than the stud mount, and I'm wondering the limits. I will have 140-150lbs on the seat and 380-400 open with the cam I have, Do you guys think I'm going to run into problems? I tested the springs and they are up to it, just not sure about the rockers staying put.

[qkjuicedpony]

They should be fine.

[coupe]

The limit is the small-ish bolt holding them in. I would recommend a stud. The spring rate sounds high or your cam has alot of lift. Tell us more about both.

[Mr.Slave]

The cam has .553 int. 221 dur @ .050 and .524 exh dur 228 @ .050. I called the cam builder (cam motion) and they gave me those spring rates.. what other info do you need?

[coupe]

The open pressure sounds kinda high for that setup. I would personally go for a stud/guideplate conversion. But qkjuice has alot of valuable experience; he might have tried something similar? :shrug:

[qkjuicedpony]

The cam has .553 int. 221 dur @ .050 and .524 exh dur 228 @ .050. I called the cam builder (cam motion) and they gave me those spring rates.. what other info do you need?


With taht cam.More than likely you will wind up pushing the threads out of the head in th eupper rpms.

I would suggest converting to stud mounts.This will require removing the heads for converting.


So if you decide to do this.My honest opinion would be to sell your current heads and buy a set that are already setup for studs.

[QWKSNKE]

The open pressure sounds kinda high for that setup. :

Not really, Both of my AFM cams required more open seat pressure than that. I never changed the springs out but Dale has since he bought my cobra. I'll be interested to see how strong the car is with the stouter springs in it. They do make a difference

[SlowJoe]

With taht cam.More than likely you will wind up pushing the threads out of the head in th eupper rpms.

I would suggest converting to stud mounts.This will require removing the heads for converting.


So if you decide to do this.My honest opinion would be to sell your current heads and buy a set that are already setup for studs.

r u drinking check spelling man

[Mr.Slave]

I really don't want to spend the extra money on a new set of heads, this build has gone so far over budget its killing me, because I've done everything else twice so far (first build), so at this point I'd rather consider the conversion to stud for my current heads if there's any hope of saving a buck going that route. If I do it that way, is there still a possibility for problems?

[coupe]

this build has gone so far over budget its killing me,

:rofl: welcome to the club.

any cylinder-head shop can convert it to guideplates...it's a pretty common deal. They like aluminum too, easy to machine.

Cylinder-Head Service in Birmingham has the experience. You might check Alabama Cylinder Head (Patriot Performace) in Rainbow City-Gadsden area too. They have the ability.

:nice:

ps: don't forget hardened pushrods for use with guideplates.

[Mr.Slave]

Haha thanks, is there initiation for this club?.. or is the swelling of my butthole from being bent over so many times at the machine shop enough initiation.

Thanks for the info though, I seem to be the only one on this site not located in GA or AL (which is unfortunate because I'm in the worst state in the US) but I'll check my local shop and see if they are up to it.

[qkjuicedpony]

List of parts you will need to convert your heads.


Studs(3/8 or 7/16)
Guideplates
Rocker arms(3/8 or 7/16)
Hardened Pushrods(correct length)


The area where the rockers bolt down at the moment have to be machined down a little and then drilled and tapped to accept the studs.

Whenever I have converted a set of heads I have always drilled a hole and "Pinned" the stud into the head too...So the stud can't back out or move any.

As I said earlier.The heads have to be removed to do this procedure.