PDA

View Full Version : 1975 460 swap in


adrenaline=lifeline
03-11-2009, 01:28 PM
how much trouble and wat is all needed to swap in a 1975 460 into a 1988 gt w either a c4 or c6?

qkjuicedpony
03-11-2009, 01:31 PM
Oil pan,mounts and headers and it drops right in

coupe
03-11-2009, 02:09 PM
Now that would be sweet to have under a stock hood. 500hp/500ft.lb should be rather easy, so I recommend the C6 if you have a choice of the two.

93cobra1928
03-11-2009, 03:52 PM
:agree:A friend of mine had one in a coupe with RPM heads and a small solid roller and it went 6.20's in the 1/8 it's now in a 79 fairmont and goes 6.50's

SlowJoe
03-11-2009, 04:44 PM
you also need a 1 1/2 inch body lift in the front!

adrenaline=lifeline
03-11-2009, 04:58 PM
i gota talk a few people into it. i gota convince them cars not worth restoring and selling. the trannies wat evers in a 1975 mark iv. where can i get headers and oil pan and mounts

adrenaline=lifeline
03-11-2009, 04:59 PM
i should mention car is stll for sale

SlowJoe
03-11-2009, 05:20 PM
i dont think a 1975 model is all that great! But not sure maybe someone that know will speak up.

adrenaline=lifeline
03-11-2009, 05:21 PM
i dont think a 1975 model is all that great! But not sure maybe someone that know will speak up.
it may not be but for free if i can talk them into is fine

waypastcrazy
03-11-2009, 05:45 PM
Oil pan,mounts and headers and it drops right inI beg to differ but a 1.5 inch body lift and manual brake setup or hydraboost. Or a 7 inch booster type setup. Will make it a smoother swap to clear tall valve covers and keep drive line straight. It will work your way but the engine will sit to high at the front end and throw the u joint at back of tranny in a bad angle and also cause problems with getting air out of the cooling system. Because the radiator will sit lower than the heads. Depending on if you use a stock type rear sump or canton type the bigger aftermarket pan will barely clear rear of k member putting engine in and makes things harder without the body lift and or tubular k member. You also need to extend the steering linkage 1.5 inches preferably use flaming river knuckles and some 3/4 bar stock.its not a complicated swap if u make a game plan and do the mods I suggested. also a motor plate helps to. I have done it both ways and this sounds more difficult but in reality makes it a smoother install.clyde

waypastcrazy
03-11-2009, 09:47 PM
For tranny depends on what your budget is for economy build coupe is correct the c6 will fit the build for a mild 500 hp and torque and be the cheapest easiest rte. Give us more details on what performance level you are looking for. Because that will determine if the d3 heads will be sufficient. The compression will be low on that year without some engine modification. Those heads are around 95 cc. Also ford put the pistons about .015 below deck heigth.and the exhaust needs some serious work depending on what your goal is. They also put the valves .100 further up in the chamber and this shorten the short turn radius in the head and hurt flow but can be ported to make 500 pretty easy but need atleast .050 shaved.they also put a retarded timing set in them that hurts performance. But can be fixed with earlier set like 70 or so or an aftermarket. A cam with duration favoring the exhaust will also help.and a duraspark with a timing recurve. The sky is the limit. Joe is correct all factory it will give dissapointing results. But with a few mods can make some decent power just like any other engine. Give us more info on what you want from this and we can give you more specifics. Clyde

SlowJoe
03-11-2009, 09:55 PM
For tranny depends on what your budget is for economy build coupe is correct the c6 will fit the build for a mild 500 hp and torque and be the cheapest easiest rte. Give us more details on what performance level you are looking for. Because that will determine if the d3 heads will be sufficient. The compression will be low on that year without some engine modification. Those heads are around 95 cc. Also ford put the pistons about .015 below deck heigth.and the exhaust needs some serious work depending on what your goal is. They also put the valves .100 further up in the chamber and this shorten the short turn radius in the head and hurt flow but can be ported to make 500 pretty easy but need atleast .050 shaved.they also put a retarded timing set in them that hurts performance. But can be fixed with earlier set like 70 or so or an aftermarket. A cam with duration favoring the exhaust will also help.and a duraspark with a timing recurve. The sky is the limit. Joe is correct all factory it will give dissapointing results. But with a few mods can make some decent power just like ant other engine. Give us more info on what you want from this and we can give you more specifics. Clyde

thats is what i was thinking. by the time he buys all the stuff to put it in and such he could do a small block and be rolling. but say if it was a 69 DOVE maybe worth the swap. headers new are around 350, oil pan setup 200, mounts 200 or motor plate for a 100,cutting drive shaft who knows, and the other small odds and ends.

waypastcrazy
03-11-2009, 09:56 PM
Plan the build based on your performance goals.that will determine which oil pan and what size headers you will need. Hooker headers. D and d. Crites. Are a few that make headers. On a mild build frpp or a 80 up. Truck pan will work. For higher power build I recomend a canton. Milodon or one with good baffling. Lol let us know. Plan plan plan. Will save you lots of headache and dissapointment clyde

waypastcrazy
03-11-2009, 10:15 PM
I am not trying to be a smart butt just give facts from experience. Its not just a slap in and be super fast car. Its like any good build know what you need to do to make it perform. Lol clyde

QWKSNKE
03-12-2009, 07:08 AM
. Plan plan plan.

this is the biggest mistake I see people make. No research or goals. Just slap a motor in because it has bigger displacement and can't figure out why it doesn't run worth a piss

SlowJoe
03-12-2009, 07:40 AM
this is the biggest mistake I see people make. No research or goals. Just slap a motor in because it has bigger displacement and can't figure out why it doesn't run worth a piss

thats how some motors get a bad rep.

waypastcrazy
03-12-2009, 08:02 AM
thats how some motors get a bad rep.i agree. a few years back i seen a 7.0 or faster 460 mustang that had all the parts to be fast run 8.60s in 1/8 mile and guy got frustrated and parted the entire car out.just a few changes here and there such as degreeing cam dizzy recurve and setting up a proper quench and the proper intake would have made a world of difference.i still here guys put big block down because of that build. that is one of the reasons i have built the engine i have now. it will be a learning experience and eye opener for a few local guys here.:whip2:

SlowJoe
03-12-2009, 08:09 AM
^somebody has more than they PLANED on.:rolleyes:

adrenaline=lifeline
03-12-2009, 10:15 AM
the build would have been planed. that was why i asked here what was all needed for the swap. unfortunately i cant get the motor and transmission, so the cars still for sale unless something comes up. thanks guys for all the information, ill keep it all in mind for the future. but if anyone knows where i can get s decent stock small block to start with id appreciate it.