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tayzoid1
04-23-2009, 09:23 PM
i was wo0ndering im gonna have to pull the motor out of my car any way and was wonderiong in a ddition to fixing any oil leak i was thinkin a rebuild or a cheap stroker kit i dont have a shit load of cash but what would yall do i dont have to get it done by any certain time so time is no big deal but cash is tight so post up your opinions and anything yall have for sale that might help me out or make my car a lil nicer:) i was thinkin about tradin my motorcycle for a good built stroker motor or a nice good horepower 302


thanks guys
taylor

TheJeanyus
04-23-2009, 10:06 PM
Maintenance before mods. Get things in working order before worrying about making more power IMO.

tayzoid1
04-23-2009, 10:23 PM
i mean i am gonna fix whats wrong but why am i gonna do all the work of pulling the motor when i can rebuild it the way i want it im not pressed for a vehicle and all the mustang is gonna do is sit any way i have just looked at the car alot over the past few months and relized that alot of thing about the car have been redneck engineered and i would like to fix these thing now since its gonna be down for a while anyway i dont trust anything about the way the previouse owner built this car the motor was "rebuilt" 2 years ago i have been to the strip 2 times in the car. a good rebuild motor should not burn oil through the rings and smoke on take off while im in there straghtnin out the mess i might as well upgrade because im gonna do it one day anyway

BAD INT
04-23-2009, 11:22 PM
coupe has a 3.25 stroke crank new in box laying around just pick up some rods and pistons.

tayzoid1
04-24-2009, 05:35 AM
cool ill see what i might be able to do

SlowJoe
04-24-2009, 06:55 AM
for the power a 8.2 deck block will hold i would do a 306 with good rod bolts and a set of heads and ride!

TheJeanyus
04-24-2009, 07:21 AM
i mean i am gonna fix whats wrong but why am i gonna do all the work of pulling the motor when i can rebuild it the way i want it im not pressed for a vehicle and all the mustang is gonna do is sit any way i have just looked at the car alot over the past few months and relized that alot of thing about the car have been redneck engineered and i would like to fix these thing now since its gonna be down for a while anyway i dont trust anything about the way the previouse owner built this car the motor was "rebuilt" 2 years ago i have been to the strip 2 times in the car. a good rebuild motor should not burn oil through the rings and smoke on take off while im in there straghtnin out the mess i might as well upgrade because im gonna do it one day anyway
Well if you don't mind it being taken apart a little while longer go for it. You said you didn't have a lot of money to put into it and that a few other things needed to be fixed, so I personally would do a "budget" 306 or something and spend the rest of the money on other things. Sounds like you already have your mind made up, though, and you're just looking for someone to validate what you want to do. ;)

EHardy1971
04-24-2009, 12:02 PM
Horsepower is a helluva drug,you always want more. But all BS aside Taylor,you'd really be better off just fixing the oil pump and getting her back on the road. Once you start tearing the engine apart, without already having the funds set aside to do a buildup,you're looking at a long road ahead. Mine sat for 3 years with the engine and tranny yanked out while I built up my 306 piece by piece. As soon as you get some money to do some work on it,something ALWAYS comes up and kicks you in the ass! Just some food for thought,and I know I'm not the only one here that's been down that road.

tayzoid1
04-24-2009, 02:18 PM
well i guess your right eric i probably would be better if i just fixed the leaks and oil pump and get it runnin i can always throw a set of heads at it while its in the car i am just dumbfounded why this new of a motor is burnin oil and sometimes smokin and sometimes not it defies logic

TheJeanyus
04-24-2009, 02:55 PM
well i guess your right eric i probably would be better if i just fixed the leaks and oil pump and get it runnin i can always throw a set of heads at it while its in the car i am just dumbfounded why this new of a motor is burnin oil and sometimes smokin and sometimes not it defies logic
Were the heads rebuilt as well or just the short block?

SlowJoe
04-24-2009, 03:31 PM
if it is burning oil something needs to be check out

EHardy1971
04-24-2009, 03:54 PM
Were the heads rebuilt as well or just the short block?
+1,could be just some bad valve stem seals.

tayzoid1
04-24-2009, 09:47 PM
from what john said his buddy "rebuilt the motor 2yrs ago and then it sat for 2 years before being put in his 79 coupe from hell project. shortly after he gave up and scraped the 79 he got my car and put the same motor in my car with a 4banger t-5. shortly after then we traded and it didnt smoke noticibly, it doesnt smoke bad at all but i have noticed when i first start the car in the mornings and it is idled high on choke it will steadily slowly smoke a lil bit but i cant notice anything driving it down the road unless i really run it out good. and no one that has drove behind me has said that it is smoking at all(i asked) i dont know what the deal is i would just like the motor to be basically brand new when it goes back in so it will be reliable make decent power and not smoke at all. i belive the head has had somesort of work done to it because it does have double valve springs i dont think the come stock but they are the factory e7heads on the car. i am thinking about when i do pull the motor out getting a cam that has a lumpy idle but matches my intake and makes good power and some how port my heads or do something that will make them flow a lil better so i can get somesort of gains. any suggestions on how to and what to port or gtasket match on these heads just to gain some extra horsepower on the free until i can get my alum heads. and any cam suggestions would help i am supposed to have an f-303 cam in my car but i really dont think it does. i also am running a performer 289 intake and 600holley if it helps with cam suggestions

thanks!
taylor

BAD INT
04-25-2009, 12:27 AM
How much money are you looking to spend???? that will help make some stuff clearer on what to do.Best cam and rocker set up for little money would be B/1.7 combo even though its close to the F it will out perform it on the smaller budget.Intended use for the engine/car.I see you have the coupe in your sig with the sold vert is this driver only now ??? just try and give us all the info you can think of so we can help and also may be able to throw deals or parts your way.Jon

hardkorethump
04-25-2009, 02:35 AM
that smoke might also be just a flood smoke also. Some Carbs are bad about flooding out as they crank and you don't notice anything else after you crank it or after it is running. :shrug:

TheJeanyus
04-25-2009, 07:14 AM
+1,could be just some bad valve stem seals.
:werd: My Thunderbird did almost exactly what he's describing due to the valve stem seals. :yup:

QWKSNKE
04-25-2009, 08:34 AM
How much money are you looking to spend???? that will help make some stuff clearer on what to do.

I agree. Most of us have been there with budget mods or buildups. We can tell you from mistakes we made in the past what works and what doesn't

tayzoid1
04-25-2009, 11:08 AM
about 1000 bucks including everything gaskets and all so i think im gonna go with a diffrent cam and do a lil work on the heads the setup right now is a stock block 302 ho with a f-303 cam factory heads with double valve springs frpp pedistal mount roller rockers perf 289 alum intake with a holley 600 vac sec elec choke run through a tko600 with a spec stage 3 through and aluminum driveshaft into 4-10's any other info i left out that yall need to know just post it up and i will try to get the info

tayzoid1
04-25-2009, 11:09 AM
or i wouldnt mind doin some tradin on my motorcycle for some engin parts or an already built motor

QWKSNKE
04-25-2009, 01:04 PM
about 1000 bucks


Ok, so that eliminates a rebuild as far as new pistons and rods.

As long as the cylinder walls are still good, I would throw new rings, bearings, oil pump, timing chain, gaskets in your current setup and call it a day. That will cost around $500

SlowJoe
04-25-2009, 01:13 PM
Ok, so that eliminates a rebuild as far as new pistons and rods. As long as the cylinder walls are still good, I would throw new rings, bearings, oil pump, timing chain, gaskets in your current setup and call it a day. That will cost around $500 i would add rod bolts to that!

93cobra1928
04-25-2009, 01:52 PM
:agree: I have ARP's in mine, well worth the money

BAD INT
04-25-2009, 03:46 PM
Find someone you trust on machining
cut .040 off the heads and clean up bowl area and runners do not use rubber umbrella seals!!!!!!!!!!
rod bolts arp
ALL FEL-PRO gaskets pan 1 piece,timing cover,heads,rear main,intake&ex
oil pump melling standard vol/press but can be one of their blueprinted
and get a hd pump drive shaft
Rings childs&alberts or childs/ackerly ?sp
Bearings clevite/michigan are downing the entire engine do cam bearings also

dont know how long you could hold off or sell other stuff but picking up a different set of heads would be best.I have a couple listed in the for sale section

Doc_G
04-25-2009, 08:57 PM
Horsepower is a helluva drug,you always want more. But all BS aside Taylor,you'd really be better off just fixing the oil pump and getting her back on the road. Once you start tearing the engine apart, without already having the funds set aside to do a buildup,you're looking at a long road ahead. Mine sat for 3 years with the engine and tranny yanked out while I built up my 306 piece by piece. As soon as you get some money to do some work on it,something ALWAYS comes up and kicks you in the ass! Just some food for thought,and I know I'm not the only one here that's been down that road.


Having been in this situation a few times in the past building a different automaker's cars, I can say Hardy's right on the button w/this post.

Me personally when I yank my motor I'll be putting it back together a little hotter than stock, with a good HCI combo, the supporting mods and converted to maf with (hopefully) an a9l or a9m computer. I figure I should see somewhere in the 300+rwhp, and about 350rwtq. A hundred shot or possibly even a 150 shot (for the track) is all my car should need. This should cost me around 3 grand with some judicious shopping and doing the installs myself. I am however probably going to have the short block built by a professional. So make it 4 grand total invested in the engine, with about a grand or so in the aod. I'll be sending ole' Hardy a pm about the possibility of maybe picking up one of his "Budget Aluminum Driveshafts" if I can talk him into it. Re-gearing the rear and upgrading to 5 lug + rear disks. It's a mouth full to be sure, and I've sourced a lot of parts already. But I only want to be doing this one time on this car, so I'll be waiting untill I've found the best possible pricing on the parts (new or used) I want, and once I have it all gathered up (I'm a parts hoarder) its take the car down time. All in all I figure 6 grand or so in the car and then its body and interior time. I learned along time ago to be realistic when figuring a parts budget and then add 15% for unplanned extras that pop-up.

tayzoid1
04-25-2009, 11:27 PM
im gonna see what i can do about my bike so i can do a lil more to the motor i can seem to justify pullin everyting out to make everything back to stock alot of work for very lil or no gains i think im gonna go for a cam and head combo and then try for an intake because time is really not an issue for the car