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95cobra
02-28-2010, 09:39 PM
Don't really know where to ask questions for this but it is in a 90 gt with minor modifiations.. Has a stock 460 with edelbrock intake (not sure which one) will look tomorrow and 850 holley dp.long tube headers. I talked my ex father-in-law out of it because he has let it set for a few years. Its basically a track car beause it has been striped of just about everything that can be removed. It has elec fan and wp' with msd 6al, thinking c6 but not sure with 4.10s



Car ran 2 years ago 7.60'-70's in 1/8th and 7.00's on 125 spray.

two questions

good cam not to radical and which stock heads to look for. not looking for aftermarket.

This is a budget project and as of right now I have 650 in it and picked it up today.

looking for low 7s on motor If possible.

Also would like to trade off hood don't like it.

And it has a sun roof I havent seen many of these. What you guys think for 600 and 50 in gas to get home.

SlowJoe
03-01-2010, 06:15 AM
first off how much for the hood?????? if you plan on staying with stock style heads get the D3's and have them worked. and a mech flat tappet will do the trick. what year is the motor? i will trade some of these mod motor parts for the hood.:jester:

tayzoid1
03-01-2010, 12:55 PM
ill trade ya a factory hod for it:) or some custom tbi stuff. got the throttle body to convert from carb to fuel injection and the mass air flow sensor. just lemme know.

waypastcrazy
03-01-2010, 05:03 PM
Don't really know where to ask questions for this but it is in a 90 gt with minor modifiations.. Has a stock 460 with edelbrock intake (not sure which one) will look tomorrow and 850 holley dp.long tube headers. I talked my ex father-in-law out of it because he has let it set for a few years. Its basically a track car beause it has been striped of just about everything that can be removed. It has elec fan and wp' with msd 6al, thinking c6 but not sure with 4.10s



Car ran 2 years ago 7.60'-70's in 1/8th and 7.00's on 125 spray.

two questions

good cam not to radical and which stock heads to look for. not looking for aftermarket.

This is a budget project and as of right now I have 650 in it and picked it up today.

looking for low 7s on motor If possible.

Also would like to trade off hood don't like it.

And it has a sun roof I havent seen many of these. What you guys think for 600 and 50 in gas to get home.i know a little about big blocks.first off more detail what casting number on the heads all the big block heads are restricted on the exhaust the d3 and dove can be worked to make good power. the d2oe or (pi) head are a little bettter and of coarse the dooer or scj head is the better one to have but still needs work on the exhaust flow. The d2ve are pretty much the crappy head because it has no quench pad in the combustio chamber. the d3ve are approx 94 cc chamber the dove c9ve scj etc are approx 74 cc .the pi or d2oe approx 80cc if u have d3ve on stock pistons ur compression sux also if if u have a stock timing set it will be retarded unless it is a c9 or dove engine .what dizzy if a duraspark it needs to be recurved on the advance i could go on but need the details.600 is good price if it has headers bb mounts and the bb rear sump pan those items alone r worth most of the money.if nothing else part it out.

93cobra1928
03-01-2010, 05:12 PM
Even though you don't like the hood, you will need the clearance because of the tall deck height

waypastcrazy
03-01-2010, 05:17 PM
Even though you don't like the hood, you will need the clearance because of the tall deck heightnot if it has the 1.5 inch body lift and a torker II intake or performer rpm.a smaller cowl or cobra r style hood will clear easy

93cobra1928
03-01-2010, 05:38 PM
not if it has the 1.5 inch body lift and a torker II intake or performer rpm.a smaller cowl or cobra r style hood will clear easy

True, but the last I would want to do is put a body lift on a car. Hell I don't like them on trucks!

SlowJoe
03-01-2010, 06:01 PM
in order to do it right and line the drive train up you have to have a body lift. we put one on the 93 and you could not even tell it was on there.

waypastcrazy
03-01-2010, 06:27 PM
True, but the last I would want to do is put a body lift on a car. Hell I don't like them on trucks!the big block install with motor mounts will misalign the drive train.and the engine will set to high above radiator and cause air pockets in the cooling system and steering shaft will not fit properly between header pipes. the lift actually puts things back to a normal look.:D

95cobra
03-01-2010, 06:31 PM
first off how much for the hood?????? if you plan on staying with stock style heads get the D3's and have them worked. and a mech flat tappet will do the trick. what year is the motor? i will trade some of these mod motor parts for the hood.:jester:
Would like to trade for another cowl hood. The carb sticks up over the fenders a couple of inches.

95cobra
03-01-2010, 06:37 PM
I haven't had time to really get under car yet to see what all has been done. Not sure on body lifts or anything else. Its a pretty smooth ride considering what it is.

95cobra
03-01-2010, 06:39 PM
ill trade ya a factory hod for it:) or some custom tbi stuff. got the throttle body to convert from carb to fuel injection and the mass air flow sensor. just lemme know.

Sorry would like another cowl maybe 4".

93cobra1928
03-02-2010, 05:13 AM
the big block install with motor mounts will misalign the drive train.and the engine will set to high above radiator and cause air pockets in the cooling system and steering shaft will not fit properly between header pipes. the lift actually puts things back to a normal look.:D

I have only been up close and personal with one BB install in a fox
and I don't remember using a body lift but I have slept since then.

This was an 85 coupe with a 429, glide and a 9 inch. We did use
an AJE K-member but IDK if that made any difference. The car ran
6.30's on motor in the 1/8

95cobra
03-02-2010, 08:50 AM
i know a little about big blocks.first off more detail what casting number on the heads all the big block heads are restricted on the exhaust the d3 and dove can be worked to make good power. the d2oe or (pi) head are a little bettter and of coarse the dooer or scj head is the better one to have but still needs work on the exhaust flow. The d2ve are pretty much the crappy head because it has no quench pad in the combustio chamber. the d3ve are approx 94 cc chamber the dove c9ve scj etc are approx 74 cc .the pi or d2oe approx 80cc if u have d3ve on stock pistons ur compression sux also if if u have a stock timing set it will be retarded unless it is a c9 or dove engine .what dizzy if a duraspark it needs to be recurved on the advance i could go on but need the details.600 is good price if it has headers bb mounts and the bb rear sump pan those items alone r worth most of the money.if nothing else part it out.
Thanks for info. I will find out what year and what heads are on motor soon.

95cobra
03-02-2010, 08:54 AM
I have only been up close and personal with one BB install in a fox
and I don't remember using a body lift but I have slept since then.

This was an 85 coupe with a 429, glide and a 9 inch. We did use
an AJE K-member but IDK if that made any difference. The car ran
6.30's on motor in the 1/8

As far as I know this motor is completly stock minus intske and carb. I am looking to be able to drive around town every now and then and still run decent #s at track.

grabbinandstabbin
03-02-2010, 10:13 AM
sent you a pm about the hood

waypastcrazy
03-02-2010, 10:23 AM
depends on if the k member was a dropped style k member + if it had engine plates or engine mounts also the power glide gives more room to raise rear of tranny which the c6 does not in this application.i have seen few done correctly and alot with the front of engine pointed towards the moon.i beleive their is a video and pics of one of my installs in project forum under 91lx.their are always more than one way to do something correctly and or incorrectly.this is just my opinion.the reason i would not use the drop style k member is it leaves me the option of changing to small block or possibly selling the k member later.

waypastcrazy
03-02-2010, 10:27 AM
As far as I know this motor is completly stock minus intske and carb. I am looking to be able to drive around town every now and then and still run decent #s at track.in this case you have lots of room for power gains without breaking the bank.keeps us posted.

waypastcrazy
03-02-2010, 11:07 AM
I beleive the discussion was had to have a big cowl to clear and the answer is no not if correct mods are done.a stock hood will clear.

TheJeanyus
03-02-2010, 11:53 AM
I beleive the discussion was had to have a big cowl to clear and the answer is no not if correct mods are done.a stock hood will clear.
Man what a sleeper. :metal:

93cobra1928
03-02-2010, 04:32 PM
I beleive the discussion was had to have a big cowl to clear and the answer is no not if correct mods are done.a stock hood will clear.

No, I said he would need it, not had to have it because I correctly assumed it was installed with the conversion motor mounts.

You make it kinda sound like I'm doubting you or saying you are wrong. Nothing could be further from the truth! It is obvious that you have a lot more experience with this swap than me :jester:

95Cobra said his carb sticks up a couple inches above the fenders, the one I helped with did too. We originally wanted a 4" cowl but couldn't use one because it hit the dizzzy, the body lift you mentioned would have solved that issue for sure.

waypastcrazy
03-02-2010, 06:06 PM
I mean no ill intent just a chance for me to share some info and have a good time doing it which doesnt come along to often since I am one of the few on the board that play with the little o 385s. lol:D

95cobra
03-02-2010, 06:15 PM
Found out few hours ago Between rain sleet and snow that the heads are dove-C so don't know what that means. Not sure yet on block.

Can anyone tell me a good cam to look into. Nothing to crazy and will be n/a but every now and then might juice it. I do want to buy the best stock head and have some work done on them. The intake is performer rpm.

waypastcrazy
03-02-2010, 06:19 PM
Found out few hours ago Between rain sleet and snow that the heads are dove-C so don't know what that means. Not sure yet on block.

Can anyone tell me a good cam to look into. Nothing to crazy and will be n/a but every now and then might juice it. I do want to buy the best stock head and have some work done on them. The intake is performer rpm.the doves will make very good power if you do some port work.need the block numbers to try and figure your compression ratio if it is stock.look above the starter. that motor with head work on a little juice will be a nice little power house.and very streetable but the stock pistons will not tolerate a tune that is off on the spray.the compression should be decent those are approx 74cc chambers.you should check out scotty j web site on the big block iron heads.the rpm intake is a pretty good intake for a moderate built street machine. http://reincarnation-automotive.com/ fixed the link
(http://www.reincarnation.com)

SlowJoe
03-02-2010, 06:35 PM
what was this cam? it would make good power.

http://www.streetfire.net/video/The-BBF-LX-mustang_102232.htm

waypastcrazy
03-02-2010, 06:51 PM
what was this cam? it would make good power.

http://www.streetfire.net/video/The-BBF-LX-mustang_102232.htmthats was a very small flat tappet favoring the exhaust on a stock 429 with dove heads.

Brand
COMP Cams (http://www.summitracing.com/search/Brand/COMP-Cams/)Manufacturer's Part Number
34-247-4Part Type
Camshafts (http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part-Type/Camshafts/)Product Line
COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Camshafts (http://www.summitracing.com/search/Brand/COMP-Cams/Product-Line/COMP-Cams-Xtreme-Energy-Camshafts/?autoview=SKU)Summit Racing Part Number
CCA-34-247-4

Cam Style
Hydraulic flat tappetBasic Operating RPM Range
1,800-6,000Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift
230Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift
236Duration at 050 inch Lift
230 int./236 exh.Advertised Intake Duration
274Advertised Exhaust Duration
286Advertised Duration
274 int./286 exh.Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio
0.562 in.Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio
0.565 in.Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio
0.562 int./0.565 exh. liftLobe Separation (degrees)
110Intake Valve Lash
0.000 in.Exhaust Valve Lash
0.000 in.Computer-Controlled Compatible
NoGrind Number
FF XE274H-10

waypastcrazy
03-02-2010, 06:57 PM
Found out few hours ago Between rain sleet and snow that the heads are dove-C so don't know what that means. Not sure yet on block.

Can anyone tell me a good cam to look into. Nothing to crazy and will be n/a but every now and then might juice it. I do want to buy the best stock head and have some work done on them. The intake is performer rpm.I would get a game plan. figure what hp range you want to be in then fig how far you can afford to go with heads then you can start figuring the rest of the combo.approx. 650 to 700 hp will be close to the limit on a max effort ported doves ported by an expert head porter such as scotty.so a hp goal will be needed to figure which direction you want to go and how far. plan plan then plan some more. lol

95cobra
03-02-2010, 09:24 PM
I would get a game plan. figure what hp range you want to be in then fig how far you can afford to go with heads then you can start figuring the rest of the combo.approx. 650 to 700 hp will be close to the limit on a max effort ported doves ported by an expert head porter such as scotty.so a hp goal will be needed to figure which direction you want to go and how far. plan plan then plan some more. lol
Nothing crazy right now maybe 500-550 at most.

95cobra
03-02-2010, 09:28 PM
A couple of pics. The rest was so blurry I canned them. I am going to try to find block casting tomorrow. Lol I got to find the starter on it, didnt pay attention today.

waypastcrazy
03-03-2010, 01:10 AM
I think you scored a nice toy.this is what I would do keep the performer rpm intake. Use the 750dp tuned. 9.8 to 10.1 compression which I think you are close to now with the doves.use the cam that joe mentioned comp hyd flat with matching springs. 274 adv int dur 286 adv exh dur. .562 int lift .565 exh lift on a 110 lsa. 3 inch exhaust with an h pipe and magnaflow mufflers. Get the heads ported to flw around 330 intake. Aroun 190 cfm on the exhaust. With bigger valves 2.25 in 1.76 exh valves. 1.73 roller rockers and make sure you have a good oil pump and a frpp oil pump shaft while heads are off. Check piston to deck clearance and run a head gasket that when compressed thickness and piston to deck heigt are added together add up to around .045 or so. That will make for a nice quench pad area. And don't forget to have head chambers polished. Then go have some fun. Lol but be planning a short block build with good pistons. Lol have some fun. I believe that will be a bucket of fun.

waypastcrazy
03-03-2010, 01:18 AM
Head flow numbers I gave should be that at around .600 lift. Lol. Keeps us posted on your toy.

95cobra
03-03-2010, 04:28 PM
Ok. there is absolutely no room anywhere under the car. I think I might need a blow torch, a grinder and a saw zall just to get the headers off. :banghead: lol.

Anyways I think I got the casting #s. I hope they are right.D1VE6815-A2B
Is that right. I could not see anything but 815 so I took paper and rubbed my dirty finger over it. Tried camera no luck, tried mirror no luck and wasn't about to try and remove the starter today.

waypastcrazy
03-03-2010, 04:45 PM
Lmao!welcome to bb world. It would be better with k memb spacers. Yes you done good that is block cast number it was same from 71 thru 78. I believe.so it has dish unless it is a 429.they had flat tops. Best way to tell is measure stroke. Or eye balling crank which would require engine removal. U can measure stroke thru plug hole but is near impossible on a cramped engine bay.lolthe block will have 460 stamped on front but means nothing cause 429 and 460 used same blocks.let's assume it is a 460. It will be dished pistons and the formula I gave below will meet your goals.the weak links as power increases will be pistons and rod bolts.but I think you will be fine for now. Now.if you want to see a gain with little work.change timing chain to earlier 69 70 style or aftermarket. Get a recurved duraspark or aftermarket. And watch that bad boy wake up with little effort or cash. After that. Your nxt option will be the heads worked lol keep it simple and have fun.

waypastcrazy
03-03-2010, 04:51 PM
While you are in cover might as well install the cam already mentioned. You. Will be surprised. Less than 300 bucks and you will be rocking pretty good assuming the suspension all works good.lol good luck keep us posted.

waypastcrazy
03-03-2010, 05:04 PM
If u change cam I would suggest a pushrod upgrade. Roller rockers are not needed but a plus.sure I will think of something. What does your fuel system consist of?

95cobra
03-03-2010, 05:12 PM
While you are in cover might as well install the cam already mentioned. You. Will be surprised. Less than 300 bucks and you will be rocking pretty good assuming the suspension all works good.lol good luck keep us posted.
Will the stock springs handle that cam?

95cobra
03-03-2010, 05:15 PM
If u change cam I would suggest a pushrod upgrade. Roller rockers are not needed but a plus.sure I will think of something. What does your fuel system consist of?
Not sure what size line but it has fuel cell and a holley black.

waypastcrazy
03-03-2010, 05:18 PM
I have ran it with stock springs. But they have to be in very good conditon.I suggest an upgrade not knowing condition. I would get a set of the drop in springs.for insurance.

waypastcrazy
03-03-2010, 05:21 PM
Your fuel system should work fine for now.

waypastcrazy
03-03-2010, 05:32 PM
That engine in video joe posted. Is still running today with that cam on stock dove springs.been few years now but they were checked. It is a 429 dove head motor with. Cam pushrods. Timing set. Intake. And dizzy upgrade. Lol.pretty nasty little motor for just a few bolt ons.lol

95cobra
03-03-2010, 06:04 PM
I have ran it with stock springs. But they have to be in very good conditon.I suggest an upgrade not knowing condition. I would get a set of the drop in springs.for insurance.
Drop in springs?

waypastcrazy
03-03-2010, 06:32 PM
Lol. Drop in are upgrade springs you do not have to machine spring pockets to install.the cam mentioned can coil bind with stock springs you also have to check top of. Valve guide bosses to make sure the bottom of retainer does not hit it at max lift. With that cam it is def close. Sometimes a little has to be taken off the top of guide boss.just don't want to lead you wrong. You can step down a size or 2 on cam with your compression. I know. The factory cam is around .480 .490 lift. 190 200 dur. The cam I suggested is just a good streetable cam.be safe and check clearances. Pls

waypastcrazy
03-04-2010, 06:03 AM
Been drivn all night.lol. If you are going to spray it I suggest a spring upgrade regardless if you change cam or not.the quick revs of the spray will make short work of the springs if it hasn't already.now with that said!3 of the last few dove head motors I have messed with ran cams with 560 lift or tad bit more with machining the guide boss tops. 2 of those with dovec 1 with dovea. Same head just manufactured in different plants.but all of them had the viton teflon type valve seals.which are the little round ones with wire wrapped around them. The stock type umbrella seals will get beat out for sure because they are thicker.not as much clearance between them and spring retainer at max lift. If you want to check the clearance before you decide to do a cam swap or not. Feeler gauge between the top of seal and bottom of retainer at max lift. With the cam that's in it. Take that measurement and subtract the xtra amount of lift on the xe274.I would upgrade valve seals anyway since the engine has some age and has sit for awhile. 2 of the engines I referenced to had comp 292 magnum cams. Hope this helps clear things up a bit. Sometimes I get ahead of myself and don't fully explain my suggestions. Lol

waypastcrazy
03-04-2010, 06:18 AM
Lol let me correct my blackberry.those were without machining the valve guide bosses.

SlowJoe
03-04-2010, 09:07 AM
:hyper: lmao

95cobra
03-04-2010, 08:32 PM
Thanks for all your info. I am going to pull a valve cover this weekend and see whats there. How can I tell if the dizzy I have needs upgrading and how about the timing set.

waypastcrazy
03-05-2010, 12:31 AM
Not knowing the exact specs of your engines pistons dish or flat top. It be hard to give an exact answer.but let us assume it is dish. With that said with a guesstimation on your compression.I am assuming you have the duraspark dizzy. With vac advance. If it has not been locked out. Which if it has will not make good for street cruising. Lol. With your compr. Base should be 14 at idle then with rpms up around 2500 centrifugal should be 18 to 20 degrees at with vac advance unplugged from dizzy and line plugged off. Then with vac hooked back up. And rpms raised to around 2500 to 3000 rpm timing should be around 34 or so. If it is way more the dizzy is not curved correctly.or if you have to go higher on rpm to get full advance. Really need to know your exact combo. On the timing chain. Unless you have a timing degree wheel and kit. And exact cam specs. Only way to know if it has a straight up non retarded timing set. Is to disassemble the front of engine and look at it. Unless you know someone that knows all the history of the engine. Lol I will think on it and see if forgot something.

waypastcrazy
03-05-2010, 12:57 AM
Ok let me get this correct. At idle timing should be around 14. With vac unhooked and line plugged. Then bring rpm up to around 2500 and the centridugal should be 18 to 20. Then with vac hooked back up and rpms up until timing stops advancing. Total should be around 34 36. If not your dizzy is not curved correctly. If you have to bring rpms a lot higher to get full advance. The timing curve is to wide. Basically the recurve is to bring full advance in at an earlier rpm I like mine all in around 2500.hope this helps. Lol.

95cobra
03-05-2010, 07:14 AM
Thanks again. I am going to do some rewiring this weekend because rats ate a few wires. I know carb needs building got kit ordered. I am going to try get it running back good from setting for 2 years. I want to take it to track and see how it runs and then buy parts you have told me about. I found cam kit at summit with cam lifters springs timing chain for 450. I am thinking about another set of heads so i. An have them worked while i play. If you know where at set is at good price let me know. Whatcha think?

95cobra
03-05-2010, 07:18 AM
Ok let me get this correct. At idle timing should be around 14. With vac unhooked and line plugged. Then bring rpm up to around 2500 and the centridugal should be 18 to 20. Then with vac hooked back up and rpms up until timing stops advancing. Total should be around 34 36. If not your dizzy is not curved correctly. If you have to bring rpms a lot higher to get full advance. The timing curve is to wide. Basically the recurve is to bring full advance in at an earlier rpm I like mine all in around 2500.hope this helps. Lol.

Basically just trying to get full advance at a lower rpm. Makes since.

waypastcrazy
03-05-2010, 09:23 AM
I think you have a plan.that will give you a baseline to compare your changes to that way you will be able to see your. Improvements as you make changes. Keep us updated I am interested in your progress. Maybe we can share notes as you move forward. Thx clyde

waypastcrazy
03-07-2010, 02:10 PM
Here is a link where scotty does very minimal work on a std valve head and gets high 180s on exhaust. For the home porter. Lol. http://www.429-460.com/engine-tech-f2/simple-std-valve-dove-exhaust-187-cfm-at-600-pics-t3987.htm#43550

95cobra
03-07-2010, 08:58 PM
Here is a link where scotty does very minimal work on a std valve head and gets high 180s on exhaust. For the home porter. Lol. http://www.429-460.com/engine-tech-f2/simple-std-valve-dove-exhaust-187-cfm-at-600-pics-t3987.htm#43550

Thanks for link. I have done some port work on sbc heads before and they turned out decent.

95cobra
03-07-2010, 09:08 PM
I finished the rewiring today and got it running. Still sounds the same. Everything looks in good shape except carb seems like the floats out of wack. At idle you can see gas dripping on one front bowl amd one rear bowl. I have a rebuild kit but have never built a holley 4150. I have built a few qaudrajets back in my chevy days. Im guessing its basically the same.

Found out that the vacuum to dizzy is not been used. The nipple on vac adv is broke off. Will it be worth my while buying new vac adv and getting that hooked back up or should i leave it alone.

SlowJoe
03-08-2010, 05:41 AM
The carb build is easy just make sure you use the right gasket and make sure everything is clean.

95cobra
03-21-2010, 01:19 PM
I think you scored a nice toy.this is what I would do keep the performer rpm intake. Use the 750dp tuned. 9.8 to 10.1 compression which I think you are close to now with the doves.use the cam that joe mentioned comp hyd flat with matching springs. 274 adv int dur 286 adv exh dur. .562 int lift .565 exh lift on a 110 lsa. 3 inch exhaust with an h pipe and magnaflow mufflers. Get the heads ported to flw around 330 intake. Aroun 190 cfm on the exhaust. With bigger valves 2.25 in 1.76 exh valves. 1.73 roller rockers and make sure you have a good oil pump and a frpp oil pump shaft while heads are off. Check piston to deck clearance and run a head gasket that when compressed thickness and piston to deck heigt are added together add up to around .045 or so. That will make for a nice quench pad area. And don't forget to have head chambers polished. Then go have some fun. Lol but be planning a short block build with good pistons. Lol have some fun. I believe that will be a bucket of fun.
What kina of magnaflows was you talking about? I am trying to get a few parts together.

waypastcrazy
03-22-2010, 02:51 PM
What kind of magnaflows was you talking about? I am trying to get a few parts together.depends on how quiet you want it to be inside the car.A 3 inch inlet and outlet straight through type will work fine. Magnaflow has lots of different ones if you are going to purchase new I suggest calling a magnaflow rep and consulting with them.1-800-990-0905

rj95svt
04-12-2010, 07:43 AM
I have a lx coupe tubbed and gutted with a 460 and a powerglide. The car ran a 6.60 with unported C8VE heads, a victor intake, a small solid flat tappet cam, KB hyper pistons, victor 460, and a 750 alcohol carb through 3.5" 1 chamber flowmasters. It ran 6.80-6.90's on gas. This was a very basic simple combo that ran pretty good. I put a set of old TFS cobra jet style heads on and it ran a best of 6.40 @ 109 with no other changes. I have a set of DOVE heads at home with CJ size valves and some port work. They have been 6.30's in another car and we only picked up a tenth going to CJ style heads. So those heads can work pretty good.

I have a D&D k member with hooker headers. The oil pan actually touches the k member (Front and mid motor plates are used for mounts) but it is still pretty tall. If you put in a k member get either a dropped one or get some spacers it will make a difference. My headers are a pain in the @ss too.

I still have the car but it needs some work now. but with very little work I could have it running again.

SlowJoe
04-12-2010, 08:24 AM
I have a lx coupe tubbed and gutted with a 460 and a powerglide. The car ran a 6.60 with unported C8VE heads, a victor intake, a small solid flat tappet cam, KB hyper pistons, victor 460, and a 750 alcohol carb through 3.5" 1 chamber flowmasters. It ran 6.80-6.90's on gas. This was a very basic simple combo that ran pretty good. I put a set of old TFS cobra jet style heads on and it ran a best of 6.40 @ 109 with no other changes. I have a set of DOVE heads at home with CJ size valves and some port work. They have been 6.30's in another car and we only picked up a tenth going to CJ style heads. So those heads can work pretty good.

I have a D&D k member with hooker headers. The oil pan actually touches the k member (Front and mid motor plates are used for mounts) but it is still pretty tall. If you put in a k member get either a dropped one or get some spacers it will make a difference. My headers are a pain in the @ss too.

I still have the car but it needs some work now. but with very little work I could have it running again.

i can tell this is a big block guy

rj95svt
04-12-2010, 08:58 AM
hehe, yeah I have worked on a few but I love the small blocks too.

If any of you guys have seen a yellow and black all fiberglass tube chassis 2006 mustang @ Steele, Hunstville, Baileyton, or Montgomery that is my dads car. I have helped build that car from the ground up. It's a 545ci 460, 429cj 4 bolt main block, TFS A460 heads ported, Solid roller, A460 single plain intake and a alcohol dominator runs 5.20's @130+.

SlowJoe
04-12-2010, 09:10 AM
i would like to see that!

rj95svt
04-12-2010, 09:50 AM
i would like to see that!

Here are a couple pics of the 06, not the best though. BTW the car was only running 5.50's in the second pic but the engine pic is current.


To the o/p sorry for the thread hijack

SlowJoe
04-12-2010, 09:55 AM
waypastcrazy will have a hard on when he sees this:metal:

SlowJoe
04-12-2010, 09:58 AM
is that a boss 429 hood scoop?

rj95svt
04-12-2010, 10:06 AM
is that a boss 429 hood scoop?

Yes its a early boss 429 style scoop that we modified to fit the 06 hood. That was before they made a bolt on boss 429 scoop for the 05-09 mustangs.

waypastcrazy
04-12-2010, 10:15 AM
hehe, yeah I have worked on a few but I love the small blocks too.

If any of you guys have seen a yellow and black all fiberglass tube chassis 2006 mustang @ Steele, Hunstville, Baileyton, or Montgomery that is my dads car. I have helped build that car from the ground up. It's a 545ci 460, 429cj 4 bolt main block, TFS A460 heads ported, Solid roller, A460 single plain intake and a alcohol dominator runs 5.20's @130+.the a460 are definately a good head i have seen them make 800hp out of the box.sweet ride i love the o6 body styling.

waypastcrazy
04-12-2010, 10:19 AM
I am also glad to see some more 385 series fans around here.yeeha!

rj95svt
04-12-2010, 10:32 AM
the a460 are definately a good head i have seen them make 800hp out of the box.sweet ride i love the o6 body styling.

With a low compression 501 with box stock early style A460's the car made 690 at the rear wheels. We never have dynoed the 545 though. I think a tunnel ram and a custom cam would help a good bit but we don't want to hack up the hood.

95cobra
04-29-2010, 03:23 PM
I have a lx coupe tubbed and gutted with a 460 and a powerglide. The car ran a 6.60 with unported C8VE heads, a victor intake, a small solid flat tappet cam, KB hyper pistons, victor 460, and a 750 alcohol carb through 3.5" 1 chamber flowmasters. It ran 6.80-6.90's on gas. This was a very basic simple combo that ran pretty good. I put a set of old TFS cobra jet style heads on and it ran a best of 6.40 @ 109 with no other changes. I have a set of DOVE heads at home with CJ size valves and some port work. They have been 6.30's in another car and we only picked up a tenth going to CJ style heads. So those heads can work pretty good.

I have a D&D k member with hooker headers. The oil pan actually touches the k member (Front and mid motor plates are used for mounts) but it is still pretty tall. If you put in a k member get either a dropped one or get some spacers it will make a difference. My headers are a pain in the @ss too.

I still have the car but it needs some work now. but with very little work I could have it running again.
Do you want to sale the Dove heads? Thanks for info. I haven't decided which way i am going with car yet.

rj95svt
04-30-2010, 07:28 AM
Do you want to sale the Dove heads? Thanks for info. I haven't decided which way i am going with car yet.

Unfortunately they are my dads and aren't mine to sell but I will ask if he's interested in selling them. 460's can be made to run strong with very little investment. Good luck which ever way you decide to go with it.