Want better 60's

[slvrbullit]

This is the current set up I am running as of right now....

Eibach Drag Springs w/ RR airbag at 15psi
Lakewood 70/30 struts up front
No front Sway Bar
Lakewood 50/50 rear shock
No Rear sway bar

This set up has improved my 60's .2's both N/A and on the N2O.

My previous set up was....
Eibach Lowering springs and stock shocks and sruts.


Just thought I would post this for those that dont like their 60's with a lowering suspension.

Future suspension mods are a Tubular K-member and Rear Anti-roll Bar and Battle Boxes.

[96GTS]

What control arms do you have?

you're running slikcs, right? Get those TQ boxes welded up asap;)

[slvrbullit]

I am running UPR upper and lower control arms, as for the torque boxes, mine look just the same as they did when she rolled of the assembly line except for some light rusted areas. My theory on the torque box issue is that if you run an aftermarket lower and stock upper then you will have problems due to the different flex geometry in the two parts.

I have either run completely stock setup back there or totally aftermarket and I ahve had not one problem. There are 3 people that I know that have aftermarket lowers and stock uppers and all three of them have had to weld up their torque boxes.

I have been running this way for over 5 years with either drag radials or slicks.

[Italian LX]

My theory on the torque box issue is that if you run an aftermarket lower and stock upper then you will have problems due to the different flex geometry in the two parts.

I have either run completely stock setup back there or totally aftermarket and I ahve had not one problem. There are 3 people that I know that have aftermarket lowers and stock uppers and all three of them have had to weld up their torque boxes.
:werd:

That is the exact reason why I suggest people to always buy both uppers and lowers at one time, or none at all.

[Evil_Capri]

:werd:

That is the exact reason why I suggest people to always buy both uppers and lowers at one time, or none at all.

In your oponion, does it matter if the stock uppers are newer? For example my car only has ~8500 miles, and I am about ready to start compiling suspension components, and have heard/read that an adjustable LCA on a newer car doesn't necessarily need upper control arms.

[QWKSNKE]

I think you should get uppers at the same time.

[TheJeanyus]

I think you should get uppers at the same time.
:stupid: Even though your car is newer, it's still a fox chassis. There's no real difference in your suspension and Tommy's or Brian's.

[Italian LX]

In your oponion, does it matter if the stock uppers are newer? For example my car only has ~8500 miles, and I am about ready to start compiling suspension components, and have heard/read that an adjustable LCA on a newer car doesn't necessarily need upper control arms.
It has nothing to do with the "newness" of the bushing; it has to do with the different material used. If you replace the lowers with stiffer aftermarket bushings, then the stock bushings (even new ones) will flex more and cause the axle to move under lauches. When this happens, the stiffer lower bushings (attached to the frame) don't give and put additional strain on the torques boxes and eventually rip them apart.

You really need to do both upper and lower control arms at the same time and also be sure to use similar type bushings for both.

[Evil_Capri]

It has nothing to do with the "newness" of the bushing; it has to do with the different material used. If you replace the lowers with stiffer aftermarket bushings, then the stock bushings (even new ones) will flex more and cause the axle to move under lauches. When this happens, the stiffer lower bushings (attached to the frame) don't give and put additional strain on the torques boxes and eventually rip them apart.

You really need to do both upper and lower control arms at the same time and also be sure to use similar type bushings for both.

Makes sense to me, mose abuse would seem to cause the stock upper to loose their effectiveness that must faster (especially as you pointed out with different materials) which would mean getting aftermarket uppers in the future anyway so why not have a matching pair. Thanks all for your input. :chug:

[Italian LX]

Thanks all for your input. :chug:
No problem; that's what this board is for. Feel free to throw out any more questions you may have. :nice:

[Sendero]

In your oponion, does it matter if the stock uppers are newer? For example my car only has ~8500 miles, and I am about ready to start compiling suspension components, and have heard/read that an adjustable LCA on a newer car doesn't necessarily need upper control arms.

The BIG question is....

What is you goal with your car?

If its purely street with some drag racing mixed in then you will need uppers and lowers. What Brian and Tommy stated above concerning different "hardness" of each bushing material not only affects your torque boxes, but pinion angle and bind rates. You'll want to get something that has spherical bushings or something with a "softer" polyurethane. Reason I say "softer" is due to the sudden oversteer that can occur with super hard bushings being used in the UCA's. Factory Five racing is a good source for these trailing arms.

If you plan on serious corner burning, then you'll want to look into a Panhard Bar or Watts Link. Also, your UCA's will need to be replaced with either a Tri-Link or a Torque Arm.

Just make sure you pick a goal, research the requirements, and stick to it. A half-built suspension will make the car troublesome.