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View Full Version : The 93 has toasted a bearing


QWKSNKE
04-06-2005, 05:39 PM
Per Edgar's instructions, I disassembled the oil filter today. Found a lot of copper remains inside the oil filter. So the motor will have to come out. Edgar seems to think that the thrust bearing is the one that spun.

http://www.qwiksnake.com/motor/IMG_1678.jpg

http://www.qwiksnake.com/motor/IMG_1674.jpg

http://www.qwiksnake.com/motor/IMG_1672.jpg

svopaul
04-06-2005, 05:42 PM
That sucks....definitely something torn up. I cut apart the filters on the Evolution and had no sign of material and it had a spun rod bearing so it would make sense to suspect the Thrust bearing with that much debris.

TheJeanyus
04-06-2005, 05:45 PM
:(

slvrbullit
04-06-2005, 05:45 PM
damn lee that sucks bro. You gonna slap some new bearings in it after you have everything else checked out or you gonna go a different route.

Craig K.
04-06-2005, 08:52 PM
Lee, that actually isn't that much material, I have seen much with no internal damage at all.
Remeber if you didn't have everything extremely clean, some debrise may cause damage like that with out actually spinning a bearing.
Did you have the dimensions for the clearance on all you bearings? If one was a little tight, that could be from it. However I would still want to pull the pan and check the bearings from what had happened with your oil pressure.

Good luck with it, and I hope for the best.

coupe
04-07-2005, 07:26 AM
:nono: Aaarrgggh!!! When is it going to end???
Small Block Chevy time? :shrug:

I think it's time to sell the blower & part out your existing motor...then fund a nice block and nitrous setup...Set it & Forget it!

QWKSNKE
04-07-2005, 07:32 AM
I have thought about spraying again.

But I want these bugs worked out, let the car prove itself, and learn another power adder :D

ChipR4cam
04-07-2005, 07:56 AM
:puke:

NightHawk756
04-07-2005, 09:28 AM
I have thought about spraying again.

But I want these bugs worked out, let the car prove itself, and learn another power adder :D:werd:

Let us know what you find when you get it broke back down. I'm hoping it didn't get into the crank. Maybe all you need is some fresh bearings! ;)

Craig K.
04-07-2005, 11:03 AM
Lee,

What kind of bearing lube did you use when you assembled the short block?

QWKSNKE
04-07-2005, 11:04 AM
moly

coupe
04-07-2005, 01:24 PM
Lee,
What kind of lube did you use?
:D

moly
Axle grease? :poke:

I think the crank ought to be fine. Keep us informed Lee. It's suspenseful now.

QWKSNKE
04-07-2005, 02:10 PM
All I have left to do now is remove the x-pipe, hot cable to the starter, and unbolt the tranny to get the motor out.

Removed all the accessories, radiator, upper intake, and loaded the car on the trailer this afternoon (to take to the shop). May try to go ahead and pull it out this evening after Shelly gets home from work

Italian LX
04-07-2005, 02:25 PM
May try to go ahead and pull it out this evening after Shelly gets home from work
Call me if you need any help later; you know what time I usually get home. :nice:

Craig K.
04-07-2005, 03:54 PM
moly

I have always used

Lubriplate
No. 105
PN L0034-094

It is a Petroleum Oil based Grease, that is especially for engine building. This is what my boss at the machine shop where I had worked used for all engine assembly, except for the lifters on a flat tappet cam, that got a moly lube. The 2+ years that I worked there we had averaged 3-4 engines per week, and now my old boss works for the Rousch Bucsh/Craftsman engine program.

Usually any Napa type of store has it.

When you re-assemble it, you may want to give it a try. :shrug:

QWKSNKE
04-07-2005, 08:06 PM
If i can find it I will but I do not believe we have any Napa stores left in the area.

joker
04-07-2005, 08:17 PM
If i can find it I will but I do not believe we have any Napa stores left in the area.
there is one about two miles from where Brian works :jester:

Or if you want and can find it around bham I would be more than happy to pick it up and bring it up there.

Craig K.
04-07-2005, 08:25 PM
I have an old tube at the house, but there isn't much left in it. I will also take a look around at the Hoover stores.

Heres a pic of what it looks like, it cost about $6.00 or so.

Italian LX
04-07-2005, 10:09 PM
there is one about two miles from where Brian works :jester:
Damn, you beat me too it. Seriously, if I think about it, I will swing by Napa and see if they have any. :nice:

coupe
04-08-2005, 09:02 AM
http://www.torcoracingoils.com/products/product_list.asp?intProductsClassIDPK=9&intProductsTypeIDPK=6&intCurrentMarket=9

I would use nothing else. :shake:

NightHawk756
04-08-2005, 09:57 AM
http://www.torcoracingoils.com/products/product_list.asp?intProductsClassIDPK=9&intProductsTypeIDPK=6&intCurrentMarket=9

I would use nothing else. :shake::yup: That's what we used in mine. ;)

Craig K.
04-08-2005, 10:11 AM
http://www.torcoracingoils.com/products/product_list.asp?intProductsClassIDPK=9&intProductsTypeIDPK=6&intCurrentMarket=9

I would use nothing else. :shake:


How many engines have you used this on?

coupe
04-08-2005, 11:20 AM
Couple smaller Honda motors (not lawnmowers) and a coupe Buick GN motors. Those Buicks are critical on break-in. The Cam lube is great. I used it on my valvetrain assembly.

We use this on 100,000 plus RPM turbo-chargers as break-in/assembly oil. It's why we have had very low return rate. In fact, Reed used the stuff on a turbo, did NOT connect turbo feed line, and drove the car home & back to work next day to test it (Very easy on it granted)...Absolutely like new bearings & shaft.

svopaul
04-09-2005, 01:52 PM
Reed is the one that turned me on to that stuff so I picked up a bottle...very nice assembly lube....I prefer it over the standard available stuff sold most places.

QWKSNKE
04-10-2005, 07:14 AM
motor is torn down. All mains are shot and a good bit on the rod bearings. Found out about something that I was unaware of to look for when assemblying the motor on Friday. :doh: Crankshaft appears that it will need some work.

Paul,
Rods 2,4,8 were wrong.

You defintely learn from stupid mistakes :shake:

Craig K.
04-10-2005, 08:04 AM
Lee,
Sorry to hear about this :(
What was wrong with the rods?
Do you think the crank will clean up with a polish, or will it need to be turned?

Post some pics if you can.

NightHawk756
04-10-2005, 11:19 AM
motor is torn down. All mains are shot and a good bit on the rod bearings. Found out about something that I was unaware of to look for when assemblying the motor on Friday. :doh: Crankshaft appears that it will need some work.

Paul,
Rods 2,4,8 were wrong.

You defintely learn from stupid mistakes :shake:Dang it! I figured, with that much material after so few miles that the crank would be hurt. That sucks. Maybe it will polish out.

Craig, he's referring to the beveled or chamfered side on the rods. That side going towards the crank and the flat side toward the rod. We had half the rotating assembly together on mine and Paul thought about it. I'm just glad he did.

QWKSNKE
04-10-2005, 08:44 PM
yep. found a broken piston ring on #4 today as well :fuss:

Sucks you have to buy a set for 1 freaking ring :(

Craig K.
04-10-2005, 09:13 PM
yep. found a broken piston ring on #4 today as well :fuss:

Sucks you have to buy a set for 1 freaking ring :(


Lee, have Paul check on that, usually you can buy a broken up set from the manufacture.

Too bad to hear about the rods. Do you have any pics?

Are the grooves in the crank deep enough to catch your finger nail? If so, then usually they won't polish out and you'll need to turn the crank 0.010"

QWKSNKE
04-11-2005, 07:21 AM
http://www.qwiksnake.com/motor/IMG_1682.jpg

http://www.qwiksnake.com/motor/IMG_1683.jpg

http://www.qwiksnake.com/motor/IMG_1684.jpg

http://www.qwiksnake.com/motor/IMG_1685.jpg

Wall96cobra
04-11-2005, 07:27 AM
No wpost up the pics of my car you took yesterday :jester:

QWKSNKE
04-11-2005, 07:27 AM
hang on. I haven't loaded them to the laptop yet

Craig K.
04-11-2005, 10:02 AM
Lee it lookslike a 0.010" under turnshould cleanthat up.

Just don't forget to re-check your clearances afterward.

Sucks that that had to happen. :(

coupe
04-11-2005, 11:25 AM
:think: Did you use plastigauge Lee?

QWKSNKE
04-11-2005, 12:36 PM
We think that most of the wear came from the oiling problems when the car was put together

svopaul
04-11-2005, 02:02 PM
I had a feeling that was the culprit....with only 3 being wrong I can see how it was missed because the engine still spun over within reasonable resistance...if you had missed more then it would have gotten very tight.

Everyone makes mistakes...just sucks the same with having to repair it.

On the bright side, just like double gasketing an oil filter...you'll only ever do it once ;). Let me know if I can be of any help...and I've got plastigage if you need it.

QWKSNKE
04-11-2005, 02:25 PM
On the bright side, just like double gasketing an oil filter...you'll only ever do it once ;).

You got that shit right. This has been a very educational experience. At least all the mistakes will have been made before we do Brian's later on this year.

Rear main journal on the crank had excessive wear. The guy at the machine shop I use is going to give me some plastigauge and order a few of the bearings .001 over standard for the journals that are a little low.

So now I guess I get to become handy with plastigauge :D

Wickd GT
04-12-2005, 05:30 AM
You got that shit right. This has been a very educational experience. At least all the mistakes will have been made before we do Brian's later on this year.

Rear main journal on the crank had excessive wear. The guy at the machine shop I use is going to give me some plastigauge and order a few of the bearings .001 over standard for the journals that are a little low.

So now I guess I get to become handy with plastigauge :D

Remeber this, when you plastic gauge the cranck make shure you do not spin the cranck, take the cap off masure it and clean afterwards. Next, make shure that when you torque, the rods, use arp moly and torque to 63 ft lbs. When you guys get ready to do Brians stroker, who is going to do the clearence in the block? When you guys are ready to do this let me know.


Edgar

QWKSNKE
04-12-2005, 07:03 AM
Edgar,

Since I do not have the paperwork for the arp mains, what do they get torqued to?

Craig K.
04-12-2005, 08:23 AM
Lee,

I think that you can find it on the ARP web-site.
If not, I might still have my paperwork at home, I'll check tonight, if Edgar doesn't answer.

Wickd GT
04-12-2005, 09:58 AM
Edgar,

Since I do not have the paperwork for the arp mains, what do they get torqued to?

85ftlbs with 30 oil weight. Just take the oil and put a bit on the threads of the stud. Get some ARP Moly for the rod bolts, put some on the threads and torque to 63 ft lbs. Don't torque them with oil because the torque will be lower.

Edgar