need electric fan components

[QWKSNKE]

My car is running warmer than it needs to since it has turned warm for the year.

Paul, do you have any contacts to pick me up a working Mark VIII fan or a 3.8 taurus? Supposedly the Lincoln fans flow up to 4300 cfm and the 3.8 taurus is around 3500-3800 cfm.

I am also looking into getting a controller from http://www.dccontrol.com/. This is suppose to eliminate any need for relay's and such. After reading about it, seems like it would be a good setup.

[natedawgg94]

Hey Lee what temp therostat you running in the cobra? Was wondering cause I'm running the 160 in the gt and my temp gauge never gets above the n just and option to try unless you just wanted the fan.... :chug:

[QWKSNKE]

180. Never had a problem until I mounted that 3" thick intercooler in front of the radiator. I am pretty sure it cut down my cooling air flow ;)

[93Cobra#2771]

Lee - go with the Taurus fan - you'll have a bitch of a time fitting with the mk8. I had to move my rad/condensor forward 2" to clear the mk8 - it's a big mama jama.

DEFINITELY go with the DCC, you and your alternator will be glad you did. It runs the fan only as fast as it needs to run to keep the car at the set temp. In other words, it converts the fan into an infintitely variable speed fan.

My car was always a little hot blooded after my h/c/i stuff. After my mk8/dcc/frpp rad. conversion, I have finally gotten to where I only look at the temp gauge half as much as I used to.

I run a 180tstat and have the dcc jumpered at 187°. It MUST be set higher than the tstat temp, or it gets "confused".

If you would like to see pix of my mods I made to fit it all in, let me know. I have them, they are just not hosted anywhere.

[natedawgg94]

:doh: forgot about the intercooler... nevermind then

[QWKSNKE]

Lee - go with the Taurus fan - you'll have a bitch of a time fitting with the mk8. I had to move my rad/condensor forward 2" to clear the mk8 - it's a big mama jama.

DEFINITELY go with the DCC, you and your alternator will be glad you did. It runs the fan only as fast as it needs to run to keep the car at the set temp. In other words, it converts the fan into an infintitely variable speed fan.

My car was always a little hot blooded after my h/c/i stuff. After my mk8/dcc/frpp rad. conversion, I have finally gotten to where I only look at the temp gauge half as much as I used to.

I run a 180tstat and have the dcc jumpered at 187°. It MUST be set higher than the tstat temp, or it gets "confused".

If you would like to see pix of my mods I made to fit it all in, let me know. I have them, they are just not hosted anywhere.

:nice:

Will do. Already have a taurus fan lined up ;)

[EZ SPEED]

Lee...you can try my Mark VIII fan when it gets here....I bought one off ebay last week for the 93L.
You can also try the Taurus fan when I remove it off the 93L.

[QWKSNKE]

Lee - go with the Taurus fan - you'll have a bitch of a time fitting with the mk8. I had to move my rad/condensor forward 2" to clear the mk8 - it's a big mama jama.

DEFINITELY go with the DCC, you and your alternator will be glad you did. It runs the fan only as fast as it needs to run to keep the car at the set temp. In other words, it converts the fan into an infintitely variable speed fan.

My car was always a little hot blooded after my h/c/i stuff. After my mk8/dcc/frpp rad. conversion, I have finally gotten to where I only look at the temp gauge half as much as I used to.

I run a 180tstat and have the dcc jumpered at 187°. It MUST be set higher than the tstat temp, or it gets "confused".

If you would like to see pix of my mods I made to fit it all in, let me know. I have them, they are just not hosted anywhere.

Richard,

What else do I need besides the taurus fan and controller. Do I need some type of temp sender?

[93Cobra#2771]

Nope. The DCC is self contained, and has EVERYTHING you need, down to wire ties. Follow the instructions CAREFULLY for installation - the temp sensor placement is very important (locate down near the lower rad. hose). One of the best thought out kits I have ever gotten.

Damn thing sounds awesome at startup and shutdown - like a little jet engine. :evil:

[Wicked]

Lee, I take it you have stock pulleys right? All of them?

My 89 ran hotter in the summer when stopped when I had the underdrives. I would put the stock waterpump pulley on during the summer and it would be fine. It amazing the difference the little things make. I had stock radiator, clutch fan, waterpump, and 180 thermo.

[QWKSNKE]

yeah Brad I have stock pulleys. Never experienced a cooling issue until the blower/intercooler was installed

[1Quik85GT]

put dual fans on your car... Lee, I havent had a coolin issue since I put them on my car 2yrs ago

[EZ SPEED]

My Mark VIII fan came in yesterday. I will have the Taurus fan off in a day or two. :nice:

[QWKSNKE]

My Mark VIII fan came in yesterday. I will have the Taurus fan off in a day or two. :nice:


:banana2:

[EZ SPEED]

:banana2:

:nixon:

[86GT]

I have the taurus fan and have had no issues yet. The EEC controls the fan. The fan does draw some current though.

[93Cobra#2771]

Yep, that's the big drawback to EEC control, Clint. That BIG startup spike, and then the continuous run draw on our alternator.

The DCC uses "pulse width modulation", which eliminates the startup spike, and uses the fan only as hard as needed. IIRC, it pulls about 15a during most normal operating conditions with the taurus fan. It obviously can pull more than that under SEVERE demand if need be.

Plus, you can wire it in to your a/c switch to turn it on when your a/c is on, and it can be wired to only work with key on.

Just got off the phone with Lee - I should be a sales rep for them - I knew the part number right off the top of my head... :D

[QWKSNKE]

Just got off the phone with Lee - I should be a sales rep for them - I knew the part number right off the top of my head... :D


yep and I ordered the controller :banana:

[93Cobra#2771]

Wait till you hear it cycling the fan down. I swear, I hang around my car an extra 30 seconds after I park for just to hear it... :banana:

[jwillburn119]

hey just a thought...i just got a 2 cycle fan... one runs at normal speed... and the variable rates that the fan has... allows you to bypass it and shoot a full 12 volts into it if you need it... i just got a swith mounted in my cabin... its easy... and cheap... just some wires and a switch... used power from my hotbox under the dash... works great... stays on the normal line 100 percent of the time when the fan is on... and its 95 degrees in texas...

[QWKSNKE]

I have the fan now. just waiting on the controller :banana:

[93Cobra#2771]

BE SURE to hookup the a/c wire on the controller. Otherwise, your high pressure pop off valve (our systems don't have a cutout switch, they have a pop off valve) may cut loose on you if you get in the car and hit the a/c without moving first. Happens in less than a minute as head pressure spikes past 250psi.

Ask me how I know... :D

[QWKSNKE]

freaking fan won't clear the blower pulley :fuss:

[qkjuicedpony]

freaking fan won't clear the blower pulley :fuss:

well if an electric fan is that important to you.......just take the blower off and let me have it :jester:

[QWKSNKE]

well if an electric fan is that important to you.......just take the blower off and let me have it :jester:


:slap:

[93Cobra#2771]

I wondered how close it would be. Flip the fan upside down. Move it all the way to one side or the other. You can also trim the shroud a little bit. Not sure on a taurus fan, but on my mk8, I was able to remove 1/2" off using a jigsaw and a metal cutting blade.

If that doesn't work, then get ready to swing the bottom of the radiator forward. I was able to move mine forward 2" or so. You can also work on lowering the radiator by modifying the lower rad. support brackets and putting thinner rubber isolators in there. Lowering the rad. lets the fan go lower as well. BTW, I actually mounted my DCC INSIDE the fan shroud. Completely hidden in there. Baskin sells the DCC in fan kit form that way, so no problems with heat or anything.

Go to www.corral.net and look in my picture gallery for my light mods I did.
http://www.corral.net/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=37979

Pages 2 & 3. Can't hotlink from the corral, or I would do so.

[Italian LX]

freaking fan won't clear the blower pulley :fuss:
Damn! :tlash:


. . . I guess it's going on PWT now. :D

[93Cobra#2771]

:rofl: :rofl:

If it makes you feel better, Lee, it took me a month to get mine fitted EXACTLY how I wanted it. Of couse, I'm a bit of a neat freak...

[QWKSNKE]

I wondered how close it would be. Flip the fan upside down. Move it all the way to one side or the other. You can also trim the shroud a little bit. Not sure on a taurus fan, but on my mk8, I was able to remove 1/2" off using a jigsaw and a metal cutting blade.

If that doesn't work, then get ready to swing the bottom of the radiator forward. I was able to move mine forward 2" or so. You can also work on lowering the radiator by modifying the lower rad. support brackets and putting thinner rubber isolators in there. Lowering the rad. lets the fan go lower as well. BTW, I actually mounted my DCC INSIDE the fan shroud. Completely hidden in there. Baskin sells the DCC in fan kit form that way, so no problems with heat or anything.

Go to www.corral.net and look in my picture gallery for my light mods I did.
http://www.corral.net/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=37979

Pages 2 & 3. Can't hotlink from the corral, or I would do so.


from what I saw yesterday, there are no alternate placements that you can do with the fan. It fits almost perfectly where the old fan shroud used to. The fan motor lacks over 1/2 inch of clearing the blower pulley.

Unfortunately I doubt I will be able to move my radiator due to the a/c condenser and intercooler but I am going to check and see

[93Cobra#2771]

Flipping the fan upside down will position the fan motor a little lower. Trimming the shroud is a DEFINITE, and could give you the 1/2" you need. Word of caution - leave room for the fan to pull a little toward the rad. In other words, don't trim the shroud flush with the face of the fan, or you'll have fan/rad. contact issues. Or, you can do what I did and cut it pretty close, then space it back out a little bit with some vacuum line split like a hot dog and slipped over the edge of the shroud.

You can also tilt the top of the rad. back a little as well. I rerouted my headlight harness so that it lays on top of the a/c condensor. Moving it allows the top of the rad. to get almost against the upper rad. support. That itself allows about a half inch of movement, if memory serves.

A 1/4" here, 1/2" there, it all adds up...

[QWKSNKE]

Flipping the fan upside down will position the fan motor a little lower. Trimming the shroud is a DEFINITE, and could give you the 1/2" you need. Word of caution - leave room for the fan to pull a little toward the rad. In other words, don't trim the shroud flush with the face of the fan, or you'll have fan/rad. contact issues. Or, you can do what I did and cut it pretty close, then space it back out a little bit with some vacuum line split like a hot dog and slipped over the edge of the shroud.

You can also tilt the top of the rad. back a little as well. I rerouted my headlight harness so that it lays on top of the a/c condensor. Moving it allows the top of the rad. to get almost against the upper rad. support. That itself allows about a half inch of movement, if memory serves.

A 1/4" here, 1/2" there, it all adds up...


I'll see if I can get some pics posted up tonite. My blower pulley is almost 8" in diameter. The fan itself appears to be center as far as up/down placement goes. It 'might have 2" or so offset as far as side to side.

[93Cobra#2771]

There is a slight difference top to bottom as well. Maybe 1/4" or so. You can also look into shifting your rad. to one side or the other, allowing the fan to go more to one side or the other.

Unfortunately, it's not a "drop in" procedure. Took me 2 weeks of test fitting various ways till I decided the way I wanted it to go. Another week to fab some brackets up/mod the lower rad. support.

To compound the problem, I have the FMS alum. rad. which is substantially thicker than the stocker, and is taller as well.

[QWKSNKE]

yeah I have an oem replacement 3 row

[asilver2001gt]

which dc controller did you order....

[asilver2001gt]

lee....stock radiator, taurus fan, and dc controller

going to try changing the fan clutch tonight...if that is the problem then will look into upgrading eventually. how did you wire your controller? did you use the a/c input or ignition input?

what year taurus...

[86GT]

Yep 93Cobra#2771 is correct. I have a Taurus fan off a 95 and I have the FK35 controller. This is the best thing I did when it came to the cooling system.

Opps I forgot that I already posted this. LOL