yeah... its back...

[jwillburn119]

okay... so it stopped... for like a day... i replaced the distributor.. completely... still working with the eec... but its not working... waiting on plug wires... which i just replaced... but am replacing again... just in case... but i still have the problem...

But i have a new Question... is it possible that maybe the speed sensor is clashing with the speedometer since i have 3.73 gears in the car and havent replaced the speedo gear YET? If not... what else could it be? The damn thing doesnt bring up any codes so im totally at a loss... also instead of it cutting out at different points in the powerband... now once it gets warm it just does it all the time... i am starting to suspect some sort of mechanical failure... but i dont know what it is... SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME!!!
if you dont know what im talking about refer to my other thread...

[QWKSNKE]

did you ever replace the tfi module or coil?

[Wicked]

okay... so it stopped... for like a day... i replaced the distributor.. completely... still working with the eec... but its not working... waiting on plug wires... which i just replaced... but am replacing again... just in case... but i still have the problem...

But i have a new Question... is it possible that maybe the speed sensor is clashing with the speedometer since i have 3.73 gears in the car and havent replaced the speedo gear YET? If not... what else could it be? The damn thing doesnt bring up any codes so im totally at a loss... also instead of it cutting out at different points in the powerband... now once it gets warm it just does it all the time... i am starting to suspect some sort of mechanical failure... but i dont know what it is... SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME!!!
if you dont know what im talking about refer to my other thread...


The problem went away after messing with the distributor right? What exactly did you do to the distributor? Did you mess with anything else at the same time? It could be bad wires and by moving the wires(when messing with the distributor) you caused the problem to go away or change.

Have you watched at night/dark under the hood to see if you could see spark arcing from any of the wires?

[93Cobra#2771]

Definitely sounds like a TFI to me. They will only act up when they get hot. They act fine when cooled down...

[86GT]

Sounds like TFI to me too. There is a class action suit against FORD for this very problem.

You may notice that Ford stoped mounting them to the distributor and mounted them to a heat sink and then the heat sink and TFI is mounted to the firewall. They obviously knew it was a problem.

[jwillburn119]

yeah i have kind of come to that conclusion too as i was tracking what the problem might be, thanks for the help, yeah i have already replaced the wires 3 times(lifetime warranty) so... the TFI was my next thing to try, is there another Distributor... i know there is... because mine is mounted to a heat sink and to my freaking fender well... maybe if i remove it and put more dielectric lubricant under it it would fix it? or just replace it?

[Wicked]

yeah i have kind of come to that conclusion too as i was tracking what the problem might be, thanks for the help, yeah i have already replaced the wires 3 times(lifetime warranty) so... the TFI was my next thing to try, is there another Distributor... i know there is... because mine is mounted to a heat sink and to my freaking fender well... maybe if i remove it and put more dielectric lubricant under it it would fix it? or just replace it?

What wires? If there lifetime warranty autozone wires, they are not very good even though they say "lifetime warranty".

I would replace the TFI rather than just regrease it.

[jwillburn119]

no i put taylor wires in it... from an parts shop... i dont know if you know who murillo motorsports is... but it is one of his his distributors... i live close to the guys at prewitt racing... they do his chassis' and they do the work on mine and my buddie's ws-6 i think its not the wires... i am gonna get a TFI probably.. .is there anywhere to go for a performance replacement? or is it just a stock replace? i guess i can get a distributor with it top mounted?

edit!!!
okay so i did some research... and where in the hell do i get a TFI module?

[93Cobra#2771]

Edit - just saw that you replaced TFI and that didn't do it.

As a refresher, can you give us a rehash of the problem, when it occurs, and what you have done so far to fix the problem?

[93Cobra#2771]

For example - fuel pressure during the occurance?

[Wicked]

Edit - just saw that you replaced TFI and that didn't do it.

As a refresher, can you give us a rehash of the problem, when it occurs, and what you have done so far to fix the problem?


I don't think he's found one(TFI Module) yet.

You should be able to get one at any auto parts store. May have to order it through them.

[QWKSNKE]

I don't think he's found one(TFI Module) yet.

You should be able to get one at any auto parts store. May have to order it through them.


in the other thread where he pointed that we were all wrong, he said that he replaced it

[jwillburn119]

yeah sorry for the 2 threads... i didnt mean that you were all wrong in a bad way... i just still need help... okay here is the deal.. the engine... when cold runs fine... as soon as it gets warm... it begins to cut out in all ranges... the tach abrubtly falls around 500 rpm and jumps back to the original RPM in a matter of less than a second... it will straighten up... and do it again... it is running very rich... so i dont think it is the fuel system... but i am still going th check the pressure... just gotta get a guage... i have replaced the TFI ignit control module... the plugs and wires... 2x the distributor cap and rotor... stator and hall effect sensor... checked the O2 sensors... found out that the EEC 4 was obd 1... ran those tests... which came up clean... dissasembled and cleaned the distributor several times... and replaced the fuel filter... :drool: each time i do something it will straighten up for a while... like 15 mins of driving... then start agian... regardless of hot or cold condition... then from then on... when it is hot... i am about to test the coil tommorrow... and that is it for now... it is a 1995 mustang gt (5.0) with a 5 speed... 3.73 gears... fipk... off road h pipe... borla catback to side exit... because it is an SVO edition car... and suspension that i dont think matters....

[93Cobra#2771]

So you pulled the codes and didn't get any?

OK, how about a cheap/easy test. Pull the MAF, get some CRC electrical contact meter. Pull electronics out, and spray them down good. The sensing wires should be a SHINY silver, not a dull silver.

Do you run a K&N? Recently reoiled?

it begins to cut out in all ranges... the tach abrubtly falls around 500 rpm and jumps back to the original RPM in a matter of less than a second
Can you give an example of the actual rpm this happens, and the amount of throttle you are giving it at the time?

How about the TPS, have you checked it for "flat" spots?

[jwillburn119]

okay... i dont understand do you mean just on the MAF? and yeah i have a K&N and it is brand new... first thing i did... it is at all RPM ranges... and no matter what amount of throttle... but when i apply HARD throttle it seems to have full power... like launch power... like the power its supposed to have... but at or at 2000 to 3000 i would say it is the worst... it seems like the car shuts off and push starts itself in the matter of 1000ths of a second... because it does it at idle too... but of course... it just shuts down... or idles so low the TPS/ IAC catches it and pushes it back to 1000 and it falls again... :gatlin:

[93Cobra#2771]

DEFINITELY clean the sensing wires on your MAF. Those are classic symptoms of a misreading MAF.

Either that, or a MASSIVE vacuum leak is the other possibility. Have you checked for vacuum leaks?

[jwillburn119]

i have this sensor testor that i used on the maf today... and it is fine it takes awhile... and i am working on the other sensors... there arent very many vacuum lines on the damn thing are there? its a 95... 5.0 so i think the only vacuums are behind the intake... and i checked those... i have checked alot of the big problems... dont stop listing the ideas though please... i am working the coil issue right now... because as far as trouble shooting goes... the coil is in the paperwork... i just havent touched it until now because my buddy says there is NO WAY... but i am runnig out of options

[Wicked]

I agree with Richard, if the K&N is new maybe it coated your MAF with oil. I would also recommend cleaning it.

[93Cobra#2771]

Plenty of places for a vacuum leak - intake ducting after the MAF, upper/lower intakes, PCV system, etc.

Clean the MAF - cheap and easy to do.

[Wicked]

[QUOTE=93Cobra#2771]Plenty of places for a vacuum leak - intake ducting after the MAF, upper/lower intakes, PCV system, etc.
QUOTE]

:werd:

[jwillburn119]

what do i use to clean it? you cant put chemicals on it can you?

[Wicked]

what do i use to clean it? you cant put chemicals on it can you?

Electrical Contact Cleaner. It is made for such electrical devices and leaves no film/residue. Make sure it is Electrical Contact Cleaner...not carb cleaner. :jester:

Just spray it on the element and get it nice and wet. It will dry up very quickly. Do not touch the element...although some people will try to tell you to use a q-tip. I do not think someone who has never cleaned a MAF should use the q-tip.

[QWKSNKE]

carb cleaner worked good for me :nice:

[Wicked]

carb cleaner worked good for me :nice:

Interesting, I would have thought Carb Cleaner was petroleum based and would leave a residue. I also would think it might deteriorate the plastic.

[QWKSNKE]

it evaporates fast

[natedawgg94]

Could you have a sticking egr???? or have you deleted it? Have you done any motor work to the car if not how many miles are on it?

[jwillburn119]

Could you have a sticking egr???? or have you deleted it? Have you done any motor work to the car if not how many miles are on it?


no no motor work... except tune up stuff... it has 155600...
i was waiting till i got the problem fixed to dig deep... why is there something MECHANICAL that would cause this problem? and the EGR on the computer, says its running fine... havent deleted it YET... was thinking about it... you can seee it move as you turn the throttle... but if it is sticking open... it could cause the problem huh?

[qkjuicedpony]

have you checked/replaced the ACT sensor yet?you say once th ecar warms up it starst this.just a thought as i had a car do the same thing...

[jwillburn119]

okay... so i am illiterate... but i am learning... what the HELL is an ACT sensor... is it the IAT sensor? intake air temp sensor? or what... i know it stands for air charge temp sensor... but that means jack to me... and also... should the magnet on the hall effect sensor contact the vain ( the thing that passes through the hall effect sensor) during the vain rotation?... okay... i pulled the distributor completely out... am probably going to replace it... and the coil too... thanks for all the help you all are giving me... please dont stop... by the way all... or most of you are from AL... right? how close to huntsville... cuz the guy that i fought in IRAQ with is from there... let me know

[86GT]

The ACT and the IAT are one in the same. Ford decided to change the name.

The Hall effect vane is not suppose to rub what so ever. The vane is only supposed to block the magnetic field. This blocking and unplucking of the magnetic field is what creates the pulse.

[jwillburn119]

okay yeah then.... the act sensor is good... where do i go next?

[QWKSNKE]

Can you post some pics of your engine compartment? (with a good digi camera)

one shot of the whole engine, one close up of the pass side, and one close up of the driver's side

[Wicked]

Well, what happened?

[jwillburn119]

hi guys... i tore it all the way down to the pistons... i am about to pull the engine... but the ignition problem will probably be the distributor itself... i tore it apart... and found that the internals were worn all the way down... the cam sensor spins on the shaft instead of holding still... and the veins were hitting the magnet on it... iit will be about 15 days before i get it back together... at best... thats where i have been...

[JTowe85]

Check to see if one of the injectors is clogged???