Rear end questions

[One_live95]

Well since i have had some other problems with my car, suspension related etc, i removed my struts to put on my c/c plates, and springs, struts are busted, and one is bent, i guess because of it being so low....???


I have yet to tear into the rear end, it will get 3.73's, and was supposed to get a new differential, but i don't know if that is gonna be in the budget. I have heard that you can buy two trac-lok rebuild kits and pack them in a manner that it is a lot tougher and much less likely to slip, so i am looking to some of the experts on here to help me distinguish between myth and fact, and maybe help me figure out what my options are.

Can a rebuilt facotry diff. withstand much power, traction, etc.? I was looking at the detroit truetrac differential, would i have just as much money in fixing my stocker "Well" as i would in buying aftermarket etc.... or what...



Someone please give me some options, and opinions, i am not as knowledgable about rear ends etc. as i would like to be, so i really am not sure which direction i should go in....





thanks


jason

[slvrbullit]

You can rebuild the factory trac loc and put in an extra clutch and disc and replace the "s" spring between the spider gears with one from an f series truck that had an 8.8. If possible try and find and explorer or ranger center section for an 8.8 that was 4x4 as they are 31spline units and you will need to get some 31 spline axles.

[One_live95]

but with the extra clutch and disk , it will make it a lot stronger.....ex... grab better, no slippage etc. Wonder how much i could find the center section etc. for, i have seen the moser 31 spline in summit for around 250$...... little cheaper...


jason

[QWKSNKE]

we use two FRPP rebuild kits when building the rearends. The f-series s spring is a pain in the ass but will work.

My car is still running the stock 28 spline setup, 3.73's, and the 'extra' clutch rebuild

[One_live95]

so it will hold then right Lee? I am buying parts for the car..... bought a line lock, all the tune up stuff, and just trying to buy what i need to get it up and going, the 4.10's may actually have to stay in for a while.....dunno though. Will the stock S spring be ok or will it need replacing, i have seen the stronger one listed in the FRPP catalog how would that one be....???



jason

[One_live95]

also i am not gonna be draggin' the car very often this is my street toy......lol, so i am not gonna be launching at like 5,000 like you Tommy, i don't think.....lol


jason

[QWKSNKE]

's' spring will be fine. just get the diff rebuilt with the extra clutch

[Wickd GT]

Mine was 28 spline with moser axles and c clip eliminators, rebuilt the traction lock with 2 packs of clutches, yes it is going to slip a bit becaus if it don'ts you will have a terrible noise in the rear end when turning. Mine saw launches of 5k on the nitrous when it was a manual car, then 2500rpm foot brake and stump it from the launch on nitrous, lasted almost 10yrs, until Spring brake shoot out last march in Orlando when I broke it, with a 325 shot! :roadrace:

Edgar

[One_live95]

sounds good Edgar and Lee, i think this will be te most conservtive route for me right now........


thanks guys


jason

[ujslost]

Thats what I would do, just double pack the clutches. These 8.8's are stronger than what you think.

[One_live95]

i have already ordered the CLutch packs,(reuild kits) i thought they were more expensive than what they are.......

Someone tell me a good 8.8 install kit........... and what bearings i will need if i refresh the entire rear end........ seals too.....


thanks



Jason

[ujslost]

I just bought TIMKEN bearings and seals for the axles. For the carrier bearings i used my old ones.
TIMKEN sold at autozone.

[One_live95]

i just figured it would be cheap insurance to change all that while i was in there..... right? or do they just not wear out....


jason

[ujslost]

some of the big dogs here might change theirs. but everyone i know has always reused the pinion bearing and the 2 carrier bearings, mine never showed any type of wear. personally i would just buy the 2 bearings and seals for the axles. I have seen thsoe wear out. especially from a warped axle

[Wickd GT]

If you change all bearing then you have to reset the rear end and pinion, I say just change the axle bearings and seals.


Edgar

[ujslost]

well if i took someones advice, from what ive heard in the past it would be EDGAR

[QWKSNKE]

When doing a gear change i always replace the pinion bearing (large one the shims go under) whether its on my car or someone else's. This is because the pinion bearing goes under some stress when pressing off the old pinion. Carrier bearings 'normally' do not need replacing but I have worked on some that did.

[Wickd GT]

i just figured it would be cheap insurance to change all that while i was in there..... right? or do they just not wear out....


jason

If you are going to stay with the same gears, then there is no need to change the bearings, unless they are bad, but if you are going to put new gears, then by all means change them:


Edgar

[ujslost]

Edgar, do those bearings come with a new race or whatever its called? They should shouldnt they?

[QWKSNKE]

yes they do

[ujslost]

thanks Lee, i thought so, cause every bearing I ever bought did.

[Disney Lincoln]

I like the Ratech kit from Summit. Complete and good quality.

[One_live95]

Edgar, I am going with another set of gears........ i can't take these 4.10's anymore with my 1st gear in this cobra t-5........

Lee, UJSLOST, and Disney lincoln, thanks for all you guys imput, i am just gonna buy the istallation kit, and some of the solid shims(different thicknesses), and the axle bearings etc. ANd whoever does the install can use what they want and leave out what they don;t


jason