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View Full Version : How to hook up my LM-1 wideband to my Tweecer?


exgmguy
09-13-2005, 09:07 PM
I posted this on the EECtuning board as well.

I do have the EGR sensor unplugged. There are 3 analog out wires from my LM-1. A red, white, and a ground. I have the white wire not connected to anything, the red to pin 27 on the EEC harness, and the ground to the body right behind the ECM kick panel.
The display is reading richer than my LM-1 is showing and I don't know why.
Anyone have any ideas?? When I select "innovative" from the dropdown menu in Calcon it reads WAY rich, about 4/1 at idle. If I select "PLX" from the menu It reads closer, but still shows around 12/1 when the handheld LM-1 display is in the 14's.

Thanks,
Rob

QWKSNKE
09-14-2005, 05:54 AM
Don't they run through a data q?

Italian LX
09-14-2005, 06:36 AM
Don't they run through a data q?
You can also run it through the EGR input of the ECU.

86GT
09-14-2005, 01:12 PM
I have a PLX device hooked up to the EVP sensor input. The LM-1 can also be hooked up the same way. You have to take the LM-1 output wire (0-5 vdc) and hook it up to the Brown with green striped wire.

I personally did not want to cut or splice into the factory wire loom, so I cut the end off one of my old O2 sensors connectors. It has the same connector style as the EVP. I the routed the PLX controller wire out to the EVP location and soldered the wire to the cut O2 sensor connector.

Now All I have to do it plug in either the EVP or the WB. It works great. You will then need to set the "EGR System Type" in the scalars section to 2. You will then need to build a payload that has the DIYWB enabled. Now in Cal Con you will need to go to the setup tab and select the correct WB transfer file. You will also need to select 'WB' in the second combo box.

That is it.

exgmguy
09-14-2005, 01:16 PM
I did disable the EGR, as well as the payload and wideband selections. I am wondering if I have to have the red AND the white wire from the analog out on my LM-1 hooked up. I have only the red wire connected.

86GT
09-14-2005, 01:19 PM
Is the red a 0-5 vdc signal? I would think that the red is a 12vdc constant and the white would be the output. I'm not to sure on the LM-1, but I know they have a 0-5 output.

exgmguy
09-14-2005, 06:30 PM
Yup, I had the wrong wire hooked up. The white wire needs to go to pin#27. It is dead nuts now.

Thanks!
Rob

86GT
09-14-2005, 09:44 PM
:chug: cool deal

99LS1
10-20-2005, 10:12 AM
I have a PLX device hooked up to the EVP sensor input. The LM-1 can also be hooked up the same way. You have to take the LM-1 output wire (0-5 vdc) and hook it up to the Brown with green striped wire.

I personally did not want to cut or splice into the factory wire loom, so I cut the end off one of my old O2 sensors connectors. It has the same connector style as the EVP. I the routed the PLX controller wire out to the EVP location and soldered the wire to the cut O2 sensor connector.

Now All I have to do it plug in either the EVP or the WB. It works great. You will then need to set the "EGR System Type" in the scalars section to 2. You will then need to build a payload that has the DIYWB enabled. Now in Cal Con you will need to go to the setup tab and select the correct WB transfer file. You will also need to select 'WB' in the second combo box.

That is it.


When you say the EVP, what is that? Is that the wire that sends the narrowband output to the ecu on the o2 sensor harness? I also don't want to hack the factory ECU and your idea sounds better.

http://www.plxdevices.com/AppNotes/PLXApp004.pdf

But does it matter where you splice into? I think I read on a couple different wideband sites that they prefer you to get as close to the ECU as you can.

Where'd you power the plx unit if you didn't tap into the ECU? And did you install the resistors on the o2 heater power/ground wires?

86GT
10-20-2005, 03:46 PM
The EVP is the EGR valve position sensor. It is mounted to the back of the EGR. My PLX came with a controller and a digital guage. I also have replace all of my dash guages with AutoMeter guages. I then mounted the PLX controller behind the dash and used the power from the factory dash. This allowed the PLX controller and guage to be fused with the dash.

My new Autometer guages are all electronic therefore I did not need the spedo cable. I used the speedo cable hole in the fire wall to run the PLX controller wire out to the EVP signal return. It worked out rather nicley.

I thought about running the PLX controller wire straight over to the EEC and solder on a new pin. This would allow me to just swap pin without cutting the factory EVP pin. I then took this one step further. California has the most strick smog requirements. This is why I chose to run the wire through the firewall and to the EVP sensor. This way when it comes to smoging the car it is simply a plug in type deal. All I have to do is unplug the PLX and plug in the EVP, then make the changes in the tune to re-enable the EGR stuff.

For that matter I have three tunes in the tweecer. One for smog one for performance and one to disable the car.

gt90stang
10-25-2005, 09:04 PM
Yeah, I used to do all that EVP stuff but the DataQ is a much cleaner solution. I had to adjust it's zero though, but after that much better than messing with all that stuff :-)

Don

Paul
10-25-2005, 09:33 PM
What do you mean?
I had to adjust it's zero though

Cougar5.0
10-26-2005, 08:19 AM
Yup, I had the wrong wire hooked up. The white wire needs to go to pin#27. It is dead nuts now.

Thanks!
Rob

Uggh, the red and white are BOTH outputs, they are just programmed differently - you can use either because you can easily reprogram the output using the Innovate! LM Programmer (http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/download.php) software (it's part of the Log Works package). One analog output is setup for 1-2V output for a meter - this is what Calcon wants to see. The other is setup to simulate an O2 sensor so that you can use the wideband as a narrowband input into the ECU. Either can be changed to whatever you want though...

Just as an example, I reprogrammed the output I'm using (I can't remember which wire I'm using as it doesn't matter) to 1-4V out to increase the resolution (make signal more noise immune). I even added an offset to the table voltages to compensate for the ground offset. The LM-1 uses a cable for power and so it's ground get's offset from the true ground at the ECU due to current flow in the cable. More information than you wanted I'm sure... ;)