Ditchin' the A/C

[96GTS]

Haven't used it in the last 2 years...so it's coming out.

I have three choices:

(1)
FRPP (http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=3745)
$48.95
http://www.fordracingparts.com/images/part/full/M19216D46.jpg



(2)
UPR (http://www.uprproducts.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=781)
$149.99
http://www.uprproducts.com/images/parts/all/46TK_lrg.gif



(3)
Reichard Racing (http://www.reichardracing.com/ac_delete.php)
$250.00+
http://www.reichardracing.com/images/large/ac_delete2.jpg

[96GTS]

I think the RR is overkill for my app. I dont have an S/C or plan on one, and it appears that the manual tensioner is used primarily to prevent belt slippage.

The FRPP is a good value, but I was hoping to shorten up my belt some and possibly delete an idler or two.

From UPR's site:
This Kit is a must for all you guys and gals out there trying to squeeze out every last ounce of Horsepower with Tricks like this !

This Kit Fits:
* 00-04 GT's
* 99-01 Cobras

UPR's Short Belt Kit can eliminate the air conditioner compressor idler when racing.

This Kit Includes:
* UPR Tensioner
* MotorCraft Belt
* Instructions. Dyno proven results as much as 9Hp & 6lbs. of Torque on a Chassis dyno.

Fits cars with single bolt tensioners only not the 3 bolt style found in 96-99 modulars.
But I'm curious as to what all it deletes. I called them, but their tech guy isnt in. He's supposed to call me back on monday...we'll see. If this deletes the A/C as well as the idlers, I'm all over it:cool:

[Craig K.]

Are you going to plan on deleting anything else, IE power steering, or smog (not sure if you can). I would try and run as little as possible and run the shortest belt as possible.

[96GTS]

I dont have a smog pump/pulley.

I want to ditch the P/S and P/Bs, but that is a costly adventure. You cant lose the P/S w/o the P/Bs.
Manual master cyl conv kit (https://www.skinnykidracecars.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=SKRC-MCYL94UP&Category_Code=MUST_SPEC) - $169
Brake line kit (https://www.skinnykidracecars.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=SKRC_BRAKELINEKIT&Category_Code=MUST_SPEC) - $175
Manual rack and shaft (http://www.maximummotorsports.com/steering.asp) - $450

That's another almost $800 plus the A/C delete kit. So for now, I'm just gonna yank the A/C compressor, lines and condensor. I will do the rest down the road...

[rtusnake]

I'm taking mine off soon as well. I'm going with the reichard cause I have a sc with belt slip. Can do without ac since I don't drive it that often.

[96GTS]

I'm taking mine off soon as well. I'm going with the reichard cause I have a sc with belt slip. Can do without ac since I don't drive it that often.
Same here...I've driven the GT once in the last 3 weeks. I fire it up every 3 days or so and let it get up to operating temps...that's it.

[96GTS]

Would this belt routing work?
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/1619/ac22.jpg

I think if I change the smooth tensioner pulley with a ribbed one (and grind the backside of the tensioner arm for clearance), it will work. What do you think?

[Shorty]

why get rid of the power brakes. is there really enough gain to make it worth it. other than that the manual steering parts can be had for around $350.

[Craig K.]

Looks like that belt routing should work.

Shorty, on a 4 valve motor the power brakes are a system called hydro boost, the booster is run off of the power steering pump, so you have to have the power steering to have power brakes.

Ford did this because the 4 valve head did not have enough clearance to the vacuum booster.

I would suspect that the hydro booster wieghs around 8 pounds, as I recall it is a cast iron piece.

[Shorty]

learn something new everyday.

mod motor= teh big $$$$$

[Shankin]

i would go with the frpp but the rr is pimp!

[96GTS]

I'm gonna try a couple differnet things...I'll let you guys know;)