do you suggest a KB with this

[475HP '03 cobra]

STOCK HO 92 FOX WITH SIMPLE BOLT ONS, (exhuast, underdrives, new clutch)

AFTER I PUT IT ON I WILL HAVE 24# INJECTORS, ITS THE STANDARD 6PSI KIT

AFTER I WILL ALSO HAVE A 90MM COLD AIR INDUSTION INTAKE

[QWKSNKE]

it wouldn't make much power with stock heads

[Italian LX]

it wouldn't make much power with stock heads
:agree:

I would recommend also doing a head swap and using 30# injectors.

[475HP '03 cobra]

the guys from KB told me it would make 100 more hp to the wheels with stock injectors on a stock motor, it sounded a bit high to me and i was also wondering if a tired out 120,000 mile engine could handle the pressure

[QWKSNKE]

you would almost get that same power increase with head/cam/intake swap.

120k miles is not much on a 5.0. I installed my procharger at 170k miles.

[Shorty]

with a H/C/I swap you would likely want more than the 6psi base kit. i dont think 6psi would be enough on a modded car. :shrug:

[86GT]

I have a 9psi powerdyne kit on a mild 306 engine and it only sees 5-6 psi. The more an engine flows the less the manufacture rated psi you will see. I would advise going to the larger psi kit.

No matter what the psi is you will still see the same CFM out of the charger, and CFM is what matters not psi.

[475HP '03 cobra]

what would be the blower price vs. heads cam and intake swap prices

i will tell you i want a B-cam with AFR 165cc heads and a trickflow intake or
the blower kit i previously mentioned....

which one would cost less?and which one would you personally do?

[99LS1]

Having the power naturally is almost always better than going forced unless you have to. Having a mild n/a package seems to be a lot easier to handle and a better route in the beginning.

Plus the chance of fubar'ing something on an n/a setup is less likely. Going lean on a blown setup won't make it last very long.

And finally, what would you expect with a blower and basically stock engine, 300whp? A blown car with only 300whp? Pretty weak.

[Italian LX]

Having the power naturally is almost always better than going forced unless you have to. Having a mild n/a package seems to be a lot easier to handle and a better route in the beginning.
:agree:

Also, an N/A car will be less wear and tear on the motor since you woun't have a belt putting excess strain on the crank.

And finally, what would you expect with a blower and basically stock engine, 300whp? A blown car with only 300whp? Pretty weak.
:stupid:

It's a lot easier to be proud of an average N/A powered car than a weak forced induced car.

[475HP '03 cobra]

yeah i see what you guys are saying and i agree but, what would the prices be including installation?

[TheJeanyus]

I would think H/C/I on a pushrod motor would be cheaper than a power adder. And I have to agree with Brian that an average powered N/A car is more to be proud of than a weak S/C car. Take my car for example - running high 12s/low 13s while Brian is doing the same thing N/A in his coupe.

[86GT]

Which EEC do you have? If you have the A9L then it can be tuned. If you have the A9P it maybe a bit harder but it can be done.

If you are using the tweecer, it was written around the A9L. The A9L has the most parameters exposed. Some of the other processors A9P, A9S and so on are not so lucky. I would make sure you can tune the S/C setup if you go that route. The N/A setup will be much easier to tune in my opinion. If you are using some other tuning software, forget I ever said anything.