96GTS
10-27-2005, 09:41 PM
I'll try to take it apart again and get pics this weekend.
I eliminated both idler pullies and the A/C pump. Total spent =
$16.99 for the belt
$0.09 for the washer
-------------
$17.08
By flipping the ribbed idler around and using that on the tensioner with a spacer, it lines up perfectly.
Take the ribbed idler off and hit the front edge (the side w/ the part number) with a flat grinder. Just a tiny amount of material needs to be taken off. The front side will now be facing the timing cover and that is what you're clearancing.
Take a washer and drill in out with a 5/8" drill bit. The OD needs to be small enough to fit in the recessed area of the pulley. The washer/spacer goes over the boss on the tensioner and the ribbed idler goes on and the assy is put together.
Next buy a 71" or 71.5" belt from autozone. The only ownside to this it the tensioner needs to be loosened up to change the belt. So remember to get the belt started around the tensioner before you tighten it up to the timing cover.
Then route the belt like in my picture.
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/1619/ac22.jpg
I think this looks cleaner than the FRPP A/C delete pulley ($50) and is basically the same exact thing UPR charges $150 for and PHP charges $200.
I eliminated both idler pullies and the A/C pump. Total spent =
$16.99 for the belt
$0.09 for the washer
-------------
$17.08
By flipping the ribbed idler around and using that on the tensioner with a spacer, it lines up perfectly.
Take the ribbed idler off and hit the front edge (the side w/ the part number) with a flat grinder. Just a tiny amount of material needs to be taken off. The front side will now be facing the timing cover and that is what you're clearancing.
Take a washer and drill in out with a 5/8" drill bit. The OD needs to be small enough to fit in the recessed area of the pulley. The washer/spacer goes over the boss on the tensioner and the ribbed idler goes on and the assy is put together.
Next buy a 71" or 71.5" belt from autozone. The only ownside to this it the tensioner needs to be loosened up to change the belt. So remember to get the belt started around the tensioner before you tighten it up to the timing cover.
Then route the belt like in my picture.
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/1619/ac22.jpg
I think this looks cleaner than the FRPP A/C delete pulley ($50) and is basically the same exact thing UPR charges $150 for and PHP charges $200.