Coil Overs or Conventional

[Craig K.]

Well with the purchase of the 1995 Cobra slated for Sunday, one of the first mods that I will most likely do is springs to get ride of the 4x4 look of the SN95.

Now for the question of the hour, should I go with coil overs or conventional springs. I want the car to be a good handeler, but not to ride like an all out road race car.

I also will not have the extra money for new shocks/struts right a way, so I would not be able to buy a coil over / strut combo.

I think that doing a set of used conventional springs may be a cheap way of going, but at the same time, I want to start putting the car on a diet, and don't want to spend my money twice.

Secondly, how much of a drop should I attempt, I know once I start to get close to 2" I will need to start needing CC plates, and bump steer adjustments, so I don't want to go that much, but still I want a better look.

Feedback please.

[EZ SPEED]

My 94 Cobra has Eibach springs and CC plates. It was that way when I bought it so I wont be much help, But here are some pics of the way it sits to give you an idea.

http://www.nloc.net/gallery/images/full/26298-808-13686.jpg

http://www.nloc.net/gallery/images/full/26298-808-13687.jpg

http://www.nloc.net/gallery/images/full/26298-808-13688.jpg

http://www.nloc.net/gallery/images/full/26298-808-13689.jpg

http://www.nloc.net/gallery/images/full/26298-808-13690.jpg

[Italian LX]

Secondly, how much of a drop should I attempt, I know once I start to get close to 2" I will need to start needing CC plates, and bump steer adjustments, so I don't want to go that much, but still I want a better look.
I would recommend CC plates for a car with any kind of drop. It wremove doubt of the factory camber limits and will give you room to grow and adjustability in the future. Also, your alignment technician will thank you for it.

FWIW, I'm not sure about the SN-95, but Fox-bodies need CC plates with pretty much any drop you put on them.

[Craig K.]

Thanks KB, thats about the look that I am after.

Brian, I will be doing my own alignment, usually you can get about 2-3 degrees of adjustment out of the factory stuff, but your right, I should just go ahead and do the CC's at the same time.

[Scothew]

I would defintely get the CC plates with any drop. Also if you drop it too much, you may need to look at offset rack bushings as well. I am using both on mine with what I believe are Ford "C" springs. They were on the car when I got it, and from the part number on the springs, the "C"s are the only close match I can find.

Remember in this pic I do not have anything in the trunk and rear seat taken out so it sits higher.
http://www.scothew.com/images/Scotts%20Car%20001.jpg

[Sendero]

You already know the answer: "It depends."

I won't get into the explanation of conventional vs. coil-overs, because you already know that stuff. But I do have one word for you to chew on, "wheel rate."

The SN-95 chassis are portly beasts even more so with the addition of a convertible top. The rates you could get away with in a Fox chassis have to be elevated in the SN-95 chassis to achieve the same results. As you know a stiff conventional spring, even with the appropriate valved shocks, will ride like a buckboard wagon. Ford also retained the Fox-style spindle which has the curved (inboard) arm meaning any lowering you do amplifies bumpsteer more than a 96+ spindle. The recommended limit on lowering a SN-95 (by Maximum Motorsports) is around 1.5" in the front before you need a bumpsteer kit (or $$$ K-member swap).

I am a little biased, but I like the coil-overs. You can run a much greater wheel rate without sacrificing a lot of ride quality. To tell you the truth my car rides better with the coil-overs than it did stock! I have the MM coil-over kit with 350lbs Front / 225lbs Rear hypercoil springs accompanied by the Bilstein "Sport-Valved" shocks. The current spring rates I have give me the ideal balance of handling and ride that I was looking for in a daily driver slash weekend warrior. Although, the shock valvings are wrong because I get a bad ocsillation going over bridge adjointments. They need more rebound valving to tune that out. I would recommend a different set of shocks if you purchase the MM kit. Just for reference my car is lowered 1" in the Front and .75" in the rear. (I'll post pictures later)

Now, if you choose to go with the coil-overs you'll be on the fast track to a complete rear setup. It is recommend to run some solid axle lateral locating device with coil-overs, while I don't disagree, but if the UCA bushings are ok then you should be fine. Of course I'm a little biased again here, but if you are looking I recommend the EvM Watts and Tri-Link. Don't get me wrong, I like the Panhard bar I have, but it lacks in the area of adjustablility. I'm just a little picky.

Whatever you do, let me know. I wanna help! :banana:

[Craig K.]

Thanks Nathan, I wanted to hear your point of view on this topic as well since you have the coil-overs.

I really don't want to wait to get ride of the 4x4 look, but I also don't want to spend $ then end up replacing those parts down the road.

This will be my DD, and most likely never see the track since I will not put in a roll bar (unless a group let's me do touring with out one), however down the road I am thinking of doing some suspension mods as well, so I want a complinetary spring/shock package.

Just pre-wieghing out some options at this time, but I am thinking that waiting to do a coil over/shock package may be the way to go....

[Sendero]

Just pre-wieghing out some options at this time, but I am thinking that waiting to do a coil over/shock package may be the way to go....

I would suggest a 350# spring in the front with the MM Bilstein Strut (or the 2003 Bilstein Cobra Struts). Although the 5.0L weighs less than the 4.6L DOHC, I think the 350# is a good fit (you could get away with a 325#). As for the rear, the jury is out on that. I would say a 250# spring because of the top and hardware, but I DO NOT recommend the MM Bilstein shock. I'm looking for a current replacement for my rear shocks because of the lackluster valving.

Next time we are together, remind me and we will go for a ride so you can compare. :metal:

[Sendero]

http://forums.qwiksnake.com/showthread.php?t=514

Ding. C/C Plates done. You need these Craig!

[Shorty]

when i originally did my drop i had enough adjustment in the factory stuff. however after the spring settle i now have a major camber issue that will require C/C plates. i used the Eibach prok kit. it gave a good drop and handles great.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/6/web/546000-546999/546407_18_full.jpg

[Craig K.]

http://forums.qwiksnake.com/showthread.php?t=514

Ding. C/C Plates done. You need these Craig!

Your correct, I do need those, except that I am taped for funds right now. I am buying outright the 95 Cobra so I wouldn't have a second car loan, except that it took all of my little extra stash of cash :fuss: