break in time...

[jwillburn119]

i know you guys have done alot of engines... lets see what kind of break-in mileage everyone goes by...????

[QWKSNKE]

put 500 miles on my 306 last year before going to the dyno.

After going to the dyno i had to tear the engine back down due to some bearing issues. The next go around it we put the engine in the night and morning before FFW at Commerce last year and drove it the 200 miles there and raced it both days that weekend with no issues other than one of my Cometic head gaskets didn't seal properly

[coupe]

The key is (especially the first few miles) to keep RPM and load varied.
ie: run at 2k, then 3500, then maybe 2500, then 3000, etc...occasionally accelerating lightly, lugging car lightly. Do this for a couple hours, then change oil. Drive normal, no hard acceleration, for the next 500 miles. Change oil at least once during that. Then gradually you can start giving it hell if it's lived thus far. :nice:

[04 Mach1]

Everyone seems to do it a little different. Its always good to put a couple of hundred miles on the motor before beating on it especially on a everyday driver. Pretty much everything Coupe said, But I always seem I break mine in at the track.

[1Quik85GT]

my last motor i built i drove it 300 miles, just cruising around, changed the oil, and cut the oil filter and then started racing it. It doesnt take long at all for the rings to seal up.

[Wickd GT]

Well, my break ins are, start it up with out water to get the rings to seal. Then let it cool off, put water on it then go drive it around loading the motor in high gear about 2000rpm then, open oil filter and check everything put fresh oil, take it to the track make 3 passes on motor then spray the shit out of it, lol...


Edgar

[LeeH]

Everything we build goes straight to the dyno where it gets up to operating temp and then gets ramped up to 100% load over the course of about 20 minutes, It then gets up to eight hours at 90% load. Get oil and water temp and check for leaks, Tune it then let her have it.

No matter what it should not be run with little to no load for any length of time, Cylinder pressure is crucial and with no load its going to be low. This is what causes glazing which equals oil consumption, Build cylinder pressure and heat!

[ncontt]

this is an interesting read as well....

click here (http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm)

[nxcoupe]

this is an interesting read as well....

click here (http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm)
I knew someone would mention this. We have noticed more power and less warranty issues using this break in method. After road loading it in 4th gear for about an hour or so, we cool it and put it on the dyno as soon as we are able, then finish loading it and tuning it on the dyno. Works like a charm. I had the opportunity to see the inside of one of my engines after this break in procedure(we were putting a different set of heads on it), and even pulled a piston and rod out to look at bearings and piston side load. This was on a 331, and everything looked like brand new, cylinders looked great, engine really liked the tune and heads.
Try it next time you have an opportunity and you will see an improvement in cylinder ring seal.

[Shankin]

Pull um off the lift right to the rollers!

[Craig K.]

I'll run it for a few minutes to get timing set and minimal carb setting and to burb the cooling system after it gets to full temp (water) I'll shut it down and check for leaks etc..
After it cools (to under 100 atleast) I will take it for a drive and as stated by Coupe and others, very the rpms and load.
I like to run them on the highway during off hours, that way I don't have a lot of stop/go time.
After about 30-60 minutes of this I will drive back home and change the oil and filter, then drive it normal, but not excessively hard for 500 miles and change the filter and oil again.

On my race engines I will take it easy for 10 laps or so (again very the RPM and load), then change oil/filter, then beat the crap out of it!!!

[Disney Lincoln]

I run them through a heat cycle, then run em pretty hard, then change oil and run the snot out of em. My junk aint broke yet!

[snakebit95]

The last (2) engines I have assembled, I started them......set the timing......let them idle for 5-10 minutes to make sure everything sounded good and to watch oil pressure / water temperature. Then I took them for a 15-20 minute drive under light-to-moderate load / RPM's. Drain / inspect the oil and cut the filter open. If all looks good (which is has both times), I let it RIPP!! The only problem I have every experienced is with my cheap CHINA-made Ford Motorsport water-neck leaking. I finally milled the gasket surface completely flat to resolve the problem.

Wayne

[One_live95]

nice to see you on here man.......


good advice...



jason

[snakebit95]

Thanks Jason!! Glad you gave me the link. Looks like a great bunch hanging-out here.

[One_live95]

now maybe i can see your car at one of the meets. check out the track day in may.



jason