92 Notch

[SkurdalenFox]

Here's my project car. It was a 1992 four cylinder coupe with full power and A/C. I bought it last January off ebay for $450. It was only about an hour away so I checked it out before hand. Initial problems included a smashed out driver's side window due to slamming the door because the hinge bushings were completely gone. Because of the lack of window, the car was filled with snow. The headlamps were so oxidized that it couldn’t be driven at night. The seller and I couldn’t arrange a time to meet at first, so he just left the keys in the car and asked me not to steal it when I took it for a test drive.

Mods to date include,
1993 Mustang 5.0 HO Engine
Ford, HO AOD transmission – rebuilt w/ heavy duty components & shift kit.
Ford Racing, Aluminum driveshaft
Ford Racing, three core, heavy duty radiator
IST, Super cool electric fan
Energy Suspension, polyurethane transmission mount
Steeda, full length sub-frame connectors
95 Mustang GT Mass Air Flow Sensor
BBK, 75mm Throttle body – the whistler!
MAC, shortie headers
Summit, 2.5” Off-Road H-Pipe – POS that doesn’t fit!!!
Steeda stainless Ultra-flow Mufflers
Walbro, 255 liter per hour in-tank pump
Custom, in-tank fuel pickup and return
Aeromotive, AN-8/6 stainless braided steel lines for fuel supply/return
98 SVT Cobra, Front brakes and spindles
Maximum Motorsports, stainless steel braided flexible brake lines
95 SVT Cobra, brake booster and master cylinder
Energy Suspension, polyurethane front control arm bushings
SN95, ball-joints
Tokico, Five-Way adjustable struts
Koni, rear shocks
Steeda, Front anti-sway way w/ poly bushings
95 GT, 8.8” disc rear end
Steeda, Aluminum Lower and Upper control arms
Steeda, heavy duty rear anti-sway bar
Summit, adjustable proportioning valve
Bosch, Anti-Lock Brake System from 98 Cobra
Re-production 99 SVT Cobra, 17x8 aluminum wheels
BFGoodrich, g-Force KDWS 245x45-17 tires
97 Mustang, cloth 6 way power driver seat, manual passenger seat
Gentex, auto-dimming rear view mirror w/ Compass – free from Gentex supplier dude
95 Mustang, leather wrapped shifter handle
ACC, New carpet
Ford, Headlamps, reproduction marker lamps
A fleece headliner I made.
99 Ford Taurus, Power Distribution Box.

Coming this spring, a proper rack and pinion, new springs, and H/C/I

And now for the pictures,

[CrimsonRacing]

Been busy have we.......................:jester:


Not a bad looking ride at all............................:chug:


Kinda looks like RTGreens notch............







:metal:

[89 Hoss]

nice car man and good work also.

[hevymtl]

:nice:

[natedawgg94]

looking good dude

[coupe]

Wow...nice list of parts! :nice:

[SkurdalenFox]

Thanks guys!

[QWKSNKE]

:nice:

[SkurdalenFox]

I’ve added the following items to my car to remedy a severe bump steer issue, as well as to address the lack of positive caster despite that my CC plates were maxed out.

H&R Sport Springs – to replace stock springs
Ford Racing Extended Ball Joints – to replace sn95 BJ’s
Re-conditioned, Front LCA’s with Prothane urethane bushings.

These items have allowed me to get a proper alignment, and good god the car handles sooooooooo much better now. :banana:

There were a couple issues with my front LCA’s. I was a little wary of re-replacing the ball joints, and since I had a spare set I decided to use new LCA’s even though it would mean buying new bushings again.

Previously, I had used Energy Suspension bushings with the shells. I had the bushings/shells pressed in by a local shop. This time I used Prothane bushings that re-used the old shells. No need for a shop this time.

I noticed something strange when I had the LCA’s side by side with their new bushings installed. Relative to one another, the Energy Suspension bushings I had in my old LCA’s biased the LCA rearward, while the Prothane bushings seemed to bias the LCA forward. I wonder if this is partly the cause of my previous inability to get any positive caster.

The new springs also helped cure my lack of caster. Previously, my rear LCA’s had ~3 inches of rise back to front. That gave the car a pretty severe angle. Now, it’s about an inch, maybe a little less – I broke my protractor. The front of the car sits a little higher than it used to, and the rear a lot lower.

I used the Ford Racing Extended ball joints with the spacers. To press them in I rented one of those ball joint press tools that looks like a big C-clamp. It worked really well. It takes some effort to press the BJ’s in and out, but the frustration factor is zero. It only took about 20 minutes to do both sides. It ended up being a lot faster and cheaper than having a shop do it. I was really happy with the results.

After installing everything, I did an alignment. Btw – a newspaper and grease sandwich makes a great poor-man’s turn-plate.

I was able to set the front to 4.5° positive caster, just shy of 1.0° negative camber, and 1/8” of toe.

I’ve yet to measure bump steer again, but it is greatly reduced. I’m really happy with the results. The car not only looks normal again, but it rides normally, handles so much better, and is much, much easier to drive.

Thanks to everyone on the board for providing insight and advice. It is greatly appreciated!

[SkurdalenFox]

So, while I'm not too interested in "pretty" when it comes to my Mustang, the thing had become pretty ragged.

New fenders, rust free doors from Alabama and a bit of body work started the beautification process, but paint was not in the plans...

This is vinyl.

Laying out the vinyl for the quarter panel, backing still attached,
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k30/skurdalen/The%20Wrap/100_0172.jpg


other quarter panel pics didn't come out, so I'll show the next step on the door.
Here is vinyl with the backing removed, and the beginning of the smoothing process.
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k30/skurdalen/The%20Wrap/100_0174.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k30/skurdalen/The%20Wrap/100_0175.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k30/skurdalen/The%20Wrap/100_0177.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k30/skurdalen/The%20Wrap/100_0180.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k30/skurdalen/The%20Wrap/100_0183.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k30/skurdalen/The%20Wrap/100_0185.jpg

[QWKSNKE]

vinyl? Where did you come up with that idea?
How shiny is it?

[EHardy1971]

vinyl? Where did you come up with that idea?
You have'nt seen the "Body wrap" stuff like they used on that Nova on power blocks Horsepower TV?:shrug:

[SkurdalenFox]

Vinyl wrap is very common for commercial vehicles. Police cars, delivery trucks, news vans... etc, etc. For private vehicles, it's mostly about putting wild graphics on a car.

Shiny is sort of subjective. It's much better than the 16 year old paint... I really cannot say how shiny or deep it is just yet. It needs some more time for the vinyl to set properly before it looks as smooth as it should. Also, I cannot wash off the hand prints or apply any polish until it sets. So far it looks like a lacquer more than enamel. The great thing about this is, aside from cost and that I could do it myself, is that I can re-wrap panels as needed and vinyl requires almost no maintenance. I should warn, the application is not for the faint of heart.

No one who has seen it has thought it was anything other than paint.

www.fellers.com

[blue90lx]

Looks good, keep pics posted

[ncontt]

that's a good idea....

[coupe]

And you didn't choose the wild-graphics? :D
Nice. :nice:

[QWKSNKE]

so you can wax or polish this stuff too? WOW

[SkurdalenFox]

To make it shine, I got bought 3M Performance Finish. It's just a swirl remover. No need to wax!!!

[Wall96cobra]

Cool! Can't wait to see the finished product.

[Dale McPeters]

Good job!!

[TheJeanyus]

That's pretty cool. :nice: How resistant is it to fading (due to UV exposure, etc)?

[SkurdalenFox]

The warranty on this particular film is seven years outdoor. I have no idea it will actually last. But, in seven years I'll probably have re-wrapped it several times. I'm not too worried about it since the car is garaged.

[SkurdalenFox]

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k30/skurdalen/100_0194.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k30/skurdalen/100_0198.jpg

I still need to refurbish the trim and whatnot...

The color looks sort of gray because the car is really dirty.

[Dale McPeters]

Nice job James!! :chug:

[89 Hoss]

Pretty interesting, nice job!

[ncontt]

nice....