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View Full Version : Brass found in my oil filter. (pics)


ERStettin
03-21-2006, 04:30 PM
Pulled my engine for a check up and brought it up to Lorens place (Grove Machine). He told me yesterday that he found some brass in my oil filter. Any guesses why? :D

Here is a set of #2,4,7 rod bearings that were bad. There is some heat hazing on the crank journals showing (magnafluxed it) for these rod bearings and all the main bearings are good. The #1, 3, 5, 6, and 8 rod bearings are fine.

I have provided a picture showing both sides of the bearings. The jury is still out on what happened but after Loren checks some stuff, we should know for sure.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f300/ERStettin/RodBearings.jpg

QWKSNKE
03-21-2006, 05:39 PM
that sucks


Love the smilie though :rofl:

ERStettin
03-21-2006, 06:09 PM
Yeah, atleast I found it now instead of at the top end at 7300 rpm. OUCH!!!!

ncontt
03-22-2006, 05:37 AM
that sucks


Love the smilie though :rofl:

:werd:

93Cobra#2771
03-22-2006, 07:31 AM
Guess that's why most people tear down race engines on a regular basis, huh?

Glad you found it in time!

ERStettin
03-22-2006, 08:31 AM
Detonation is the primary suspect now. The next bearings used will be coated.

1Quik85GT
03-22-2006, 11:21 AM
what bearings are you using???

coupe
03-22-2006, 12:48 PM
That's a Clevite bearing. Tri-Metal.
(searched the part number :D )

Craig K.
03-22-2006, 08:50 PM
could it be to tight of tolerance on those?
did they check the big end of the rod for roundness?

1Quik85GT
03-22-2006, 11:00 PM
Is the bearing the "H" bearing or the street type bearing, the H is the race bearing!!

Wickd GT
03-23-2006, 05:11 AM
Is the bearing the "H" bearing or the street type bearing, the H is the race bearing!!


Looking at the bearing, it is an H bearing, I recomend the P bearing, is what I have use all this time and I prep them with a piece of green dish washer pad, with warm dish washer soap water and then clean it up with cold water in 2 little cans. This will smooth the bearing and clean out any burrs in the bearing and the edges of the bearing. This will give a bit of clearance and the bearing fits perfect, I do it on the mains and the rods. If you are going to change the mains, I recomend King Bearings an excellent bearing.


Edgar

ERStettin
03-23-2006, 10:56 AM
what bearings are you using???

As Matt has said it is a Timken H bearing. It is the racing bearing and I am going to stick with this bearing and have it calico coated. My cam bearings are calico coated and they look great. I am going to have the rod and mains calico coated. I know it won't prevent it from happening again, but it will delay it a tad. ;)

1Quik85GT
03-23-2006, 10:54 PM
yea, it might help and it may not, my dad and I had the bearings coated in our super stocker, but the bearings still didnt come out any better, but of course what is was, was the fuel we were using. 14 to 1 compression we were using 114 gas, but it needed 120 octane. Make sure you stay consistent with your gas, and use the octane that you need..good luck buddy

also, when you cross the finish line, shut the motor off, I wouldnt let the motor slow the car down.

ERStettin
03-24-2006, 06:24 AM
Yeah, I don't engine brake for long. I know that is not a good thing to do. The calico coatings are primarily for lowering the parasitic drag. As long as the engine is open, we are going to do this. I figured it might help a little with bearing life as well. I don't know. I guess I will find out the next time I open it up.

QWKSNKE
03-24-2006, 06:53 AM
also, when you cross the finish line, shut the motor off, I wouldnt let the motor slow the car down.

why is this?

93Cobra#2771
03-24-2006, 07:40 AM
It has something to do with engine oiling, IIRC. Seems like it can also contribute to spinning a bearing? Someone help me out here...

ERStettin
03-24-2006, 08:53 AM
Well the Canton pan I have holds 7 quarts of oil and I also have a built in baffle and windage tray so the oil isn't going anywhere and this won't be a problem for my setup.

What I have been told on the engine braking that COULD affect me is when you let off the gas at the top end and don't clutch the car, that load is transfered to the crank which puts extra load on the thrust bearings causing them to prematurely fail.

I do engine brake until I know the car is under control and then I throw in the clutch. I will continue to do this as my car is a bit unstable (due to the suspension being very loose) at the top end. I don't think my bearing problem resulted from my engine braking though.

QWKSNKE
03-24-2006, 09:57 AM
interesting. i didn't know that

coupe
03-24-2006, 10:42 AM
Shutting motor off after a pass...I would not think it's a good idea. Explain the reasoning please.

Also, if there's plentiful oil-pressure, the crank is floating, no matter if it's under power, or slowing down with the car...At lease ideally it is.

The key is plenty of oil-pressure and flow into the bearings...for all of the issues discussed above.

QWKSNKE
03-24-2006, 12:11 PM
Shutting motor off after a pass...I would not think it's a good idea. Explain the reasoning please.

.

That's one way to check your plugs to make sure WOT a/f is correct.

Edgar shuts his down immediately after every pass to check his plugs

NightHawk756
03-24-2006, 12:46 PM
That's one way to check your plugs to make sure WOT a/f is correct.

Edgar shuts his down immediately after every pass to check his plugs

I think that Matt is referring to shutting it off after you cross the line as Quick was stating. I know alot of hardcore racers that do this and coast into the pits.

Heck, they even do it in Nascar when testing. They'll shut it down just after turn 2 and coast all the way around to the pits. I just never really knew the exact reasoning, only that it was a commonly used practice. :shrug:

TheJeanyus
03-24-2006, 01:36 PM
I think that Matt is referring to shutting it off after you cross the line as Quick was stating. I know alot of hardcore racers that do this and coast into the pits.
That's what Edgar does.

coupe
03-24-2006, 01:44 PM
I just don't like the sound of it. I've heard of full-throttle, then check plugs for rich-lean, but it sounds scary to me pass after pass... Certainly not good for a turbo car for obvious reasons.

1Quik85GT
03-24-2006, 02:10 PM
Exaclty what ER said, I do that on both of my cars not just to check plugs, but oil control.

1Quik85GT
03-24-2006, 02:11 PM
its also easier on the valve train, etc, they are already taking a beating goin down the track why let them take more of a beating slowing the car down.

ERStettin
03-24-2006, 04:04 PM
AFR is not a problem for me. I have a LM1 wideband and the TwEECer. I have the AFR set for where I need it depending on the weather conditions.