clutch and flywheel

[Hotrod]

I took the tranny out of our 93 5.0 and Im goign to need a new clutch and flywheel. The clutch is gone and the flywheel has heat cracks everywhere. I need to know what is good clutch that is fairly cheap and what steel flywheel is fairly cheap and what is the cheapest aluminum one also. These also need to be good peices. Also if the clutch comes with a throwout bearing and alighment tool please tell me. Thanks for your help.

[DSkeet]

SPEC is a great setup. Myself as well as a couple other people on the board here have recently purchased a SPEC clutch and some a flywheel as well. Good pricing and so far so good!

[Hotrod]

Ive been kinda leaning to ward a spec clutch and possibly the flywheel. Is a stage one a decent clutch. Our car doesnt really have a lot of big mods but it has a quite a few bolt ons and a cam. It doesnt have any power adders.

[QWKSNKE]

just have the flywheel 'turned' that will remove the heat cracks

[Hotrod]

I've had people tell me that machining it will just temprarly remove the cracks. They said that the cracks will always be there. Some of them are pretty deep also.

[ERStettin]

I have run FMS, Centerforce and SPEC setups and the best of them all BY FAR has been the SPEC setup.

I used to go through a clutch a season with the others easily. With the SPEC setups I have had much better reliability, performance and longevity. Their customer service is top notch as well. You can not go wrong with SPEC.

BTW, I have been running the SPEC stage 3 clutch for 3 years now and love it. If you want SPEC, talk to Coupe here on the site. His name is Matt and he works at SPEC. He can give you the ins and outs on the product. If you can't reach him here, just call SPEC and ask for Matt.

Good luck in whatever way you go. If you go SPEC, you will NOT be dissapointed.

Ed Stettin

[1Quik85GT]

I have a steel flywheel from RAM if you are interested in one, I will let it go for 125.00, I resurfaced it myself, and it has removable weight balance on the back. Also like ER said, Coupe is really helpful with Spec clutches, I will let you know how it works tomorrow, I got a Spec stage 3 and this will be the first pass on it.

[banditmwp]

My wife (PonyChick) runs a Spec stage 1 and I just installed a Stage 2 in my 'vert yesterday. I have yet to have a problem out of either of them. Great products! :nice:

[coupe]

...good clutch that is fairly cheap...steel flywheel fairly cheap and cheapest aluminum one also. These also need to be good pieces.

Cheap may not be the best way to get good parts.

But...the SPEC stuff is very competitively priced and a stage 1 does well for 300-350 hp. Beyond that, I'd go with a Stage2.

And the SPEC mustang flywheels have a replacable friction surface, so you never have to machine it again. This is for both the aluminum and steel wheels.

[Hotrod]

Can someone tell me what it means when a flywheel says 28oz or 50oz. balance. As far as I know our motor hasnt had any balancing work done to it if that matters.

[ERStettin]

That is how close to 0 it is. When you put a object like a crankshaft in motion, it is balanced to within 50 oz, 28 oz or 0 (nuetral balance). As that crankshaft turns higher and higher rpms, that balance will become a heavier and heavier stressor on the parts in the engine. If you get a nuetral balanced crankshaft, it will not exert any forces away from the crankshaft when it rotates. The crank is balance to a nuetral state so there are no forces moving out from the crankshaft causing harmonics and the like.

A nuetral balance is what you want for high rpm combinations. The more rpms you spin, the higher those non nuetral forces become and the more likely you are going to throw a rod, or something due to those forces.

Atleast, this is how I understand it.....lol.

[1Quik85GT]

Coupe,

the clutch works.

[Hotrod]

What can I use to get the pilot bearing out besides a slide hammer. I tried one tonight but the tip I got from school wont fit intothe hole. Im going to try and get a smaller tip but if it wont work than im going to need to do something else.

[coupe]

They are a nightmare...you have to have a slide-hammer with a "puller"-style claw that clamps the inside of the pilot bearing...There are two indentations for the "claws" to contact. Last resort: chisel and alot of care and time.

[Italian LX]

What can I use to get the pilot bearing out besides a slide hammer.
I use grease and an appropriately sized metal rod and force that bitch out. :yup:

It sometimes gets a little messy, but a few whacks and that thing comes right out.

[TheJeanyus]

I use grease and an appropriately sized metal rod and force that bitch out. :yup:

It sometimes gets a little messy, but a few whacks and that thing comes right out.
That whole post sounds really gross in a :dirty: kinda way. :puke:

:jester:

[QWKSNKE]

I use grease and an appropriately sized metal rod and force that bitch out. :yup:

It sometimes gets a little messy, but a few whacks and that thing comes right out.

:yup:

My dad taught me that many years ago

[Italian LX]

:yup:

My dad taught me that many years ago
I learned it from watching porn. :hump:



. . . wait. . . are we talking about the same thing. :think:


:D

[Hotrod]

Ive heard of doing that but dont know exactly how it works. Can yall tell me the process?

[Italian LX]

Ive heard of doing that but dont know exactly how it works. Can yall tell me the process?
Get a solid piece of metal rod (or any rigid material) that will fit into the pilot bearing; it should be round and just slightly smaller than the tranny input shaft. Fill the opening of the bearing/crank with grease (the thicker the better) and place the rod into the whole. Hit it as hard as you can with a hammer.

Basically, the pressure build-up of the grease being compressed behind the bearing will force it out.

[86GT]

Get a solid piece of metal rod (or any rigid material) that will fit into the pilot bearing; it should be round and just slightly smaller than the tranny input shaft. Fill the opening of the bearing/crank with grease (the thicker the better) and place the rod into the whole. Hit it as hard as you can with a hammer.

Basically, the pressure build-up of the grease being compressed behind the bearing will force it out.

I have done this on a couple of engines and it worked just fine. I tried it on my last swap and it made a big mess with no sucess. I ended up going to Autozone and renting the pilot bearing puller. After setting the puller up it only took two slide of the slide hammer.

like Italian LX said the thicker the KY the better. opps wrong topic.

[QWKSNKE]

:spit:

[Italian LX]

like Italian LX said the thicker the KY the better. opps wrong topic.
:lol:

[nxcoupe]

If your car is a stock 83 up 5.0 then you use the 50.0 oz balance flywheel. The factory didn't want to spend a bunch of machining operations balancing the crankshaft to zero, so they used weight on the flywheel and balancer to get it to zero. If you have ever balanced a crankshaft this makes sense. If not, it can get a little confusing. It is like balancing a tire. Only ford puts weights on it first, then balances it to zero with the weights already on it, then adds or removes weight accordingly to get the balance correct. Is anyone else confused now or is it just me?

[Hotrod]

Well I was able to get a different end for the hammer so hopefully that'll bring it out.

[Hotrod]

Well I got it out but Ive go a question. Is the bearing just a cylinder or is there a peice that surrounds it that should come out also. All I got out was the cylinder peice.

To better explain it I got the center out but not theoutside ring. I can get it out with teh slide hammer but Ive got to take it back tomarrow.

http://www.fordracingparts.com/images/part/full/M7600A_a.jpg

[86GT]

If I am understanding the question, yes the bearing above is a two piece set the center is a typical roller bearing pressed into a sleave. Sometimes when pulling the bearing the bearing will separate from the sleave. You will need to remove both.

[Hotrod]

okay thanks. I just wanted to be sure before I took it back to school.

[Hotrod]

Time to bring this back to life.

I finally got a clutch and flywheel. Ive got a question about hte flywheel though. I bought a Spec aluminum one and I want to know if the weight on the back has to go in a certain spot on the crank (to keep it balanced I guess.).

[ERStettin]

Hotrod,

The weight on the flywheel stays on the flywheel if you ordered it specifically for your setup. That weight, when taken off, will nuetral balance your flywheel and you don't want that with a 50 or 28 oz balanced assembly. You need to keep that weight on there UNLESS you have a nuetral balanced rotating assembly.

I am not sure if your setup is balanced to 28 oz or 50 oz but I suspect whomever helped you when you bought your flywheel went over this with you. Good luck.

Ed Stettin

BTW, I LOVE that flywheel. I bought one and have had a ton of success with it. VERY, VERY nice piece.

[Hotrod]

I know what weight is supposed to be on it. Im wanting to if I have to put the flywheel on the crank in a certain position or not since the is offset.

[ERStettin]

I am not sure I understand your question. If you are asking if there is a certain way the flywheel needs to bolt up to the crank then the answer is yeah. There is only one way that it will go on and go on correctly. You have to experiment with it and make sure it is all lined up correctly before all 5 bolts will line up and thread into the crank. Is that what you are asking?

[Hotrod]

Well kinda.

I just don twant ot put the weight on the wrong side of the crank and the thing not run right. Basically I want to know if the weight has to be at a certain position/degree on the crank to make it run properly.

[ERStettin]

I understand your question now. I am almost certain it will only line up one way. That prevents you from putting it on the wrong way. Bolt it up. If it threads in all 5 holes, you got it. You will see what I mean when you look at it. The weight stays where it is at. Good luck.

[Italian LX]

You have to experiment with it and make sure it is all lined up correctly before all 5 bolts will line up and thread into the crank.
He is correct about there only being one way all the bolts will line up.


. . . however, all the 302 cranks I have seen have 6 bolts. ;)

[Hotrod]

Okay Ill give it a try once I get the headers in.

[coupe]

Yea Hotrod...
the 6 holes are not all on 60º angles...a couple are off (64º and 56º) to where it will only bolt up one way.

Trust me...I had to find these angles out to make the billet flywheels. :nice:

[ERStettin]

. . . however, all the 302 cranks I have seen have 6 bolts. ;)

I bought the VERY lightweight crank. It is super secret and very few are running it. The less bolts you have to use, the lighter the setup. :metal:

[Hotrod]

Well I got the headers yestersday and got them installed. It took us 3.5 hours to get the passenger side in and about 5 minutes on the driver side. I put the clywheel up to the crank to check the bolt alignment. I found the spot where it only lined up once. It didnt bolt it down though. That will be tonights work. Hopefulyl I can get the entire clutch assembly put in.

[Italian LX]

It took us 3.5 hours to get the passenger side in and about 5 minutes on the driver side.
Yep, that sounds about right. ;)

[Hotrod]

What should I torque the flywheel to. There might be something in my Ford Manual but thats probably for the iron flywheel and it probably too much torque. Just want to be safe when spending all that money on it and not to mention all the time waiting on it.

My Ford book(service Manual) said 75-85 ft. lbs. Is that too much?

[ERStettin]

Ford specs is what you use on them.

[Hotrod]

Thanks.

Me and my brother was able to get everything in the bellhousing done. Tomarrow comes the transmission. Hopefully shell be up and running by sat or sun.

[Hotrod]

Another update but with some not so good news.

We got everything in last night but the h-pipe. For some reason it is off. Jegs is sending us another set of headers because my dad thinks that might be the problem. Were still going to try and mess around a little with it to see if we can get it fixed. Now for the not so good news. When I went under the car to put the h-pipe in I noticed tranny fluid on the floor. I got to looking and seen where it was coming from. I wipped it off thinking it was just runover from where we filled it up. Well about 30 minutes later I got back under the car and looked at the tranny again. More fluid was on it. I got to looking and it looks like the case is cracked. We put some jb weld on it and it stopped it from leaking. I dont think the crack is big because I couldnt see a crack but it was enough to let a little bit of fluid out. Hopefully it will work for a while because weve spent enough money on it already. IM just ready to get it all back together.

My dad wants to know if there is any tips you may have to help get the h-pipe lined up. Weve got it attached back at the mufflers but everything up at the headers doesnt line up. They're close but not quite there. We did losen the motor mounts to get the passenger header in and we had to push the motor over a little bit to the left also. I cant remember though if it fell back in to its proper place or not.

[Hotrod]

Just to let everyone know we finally got the car back running and its a blast!! The only problem I have is a header-to-h-pipe leak. What can I dod to get rid of this. Not sure how big of a leak it is since I personally havent seen it.