Suspension, 60' help

[One_live95]

Well, i am curious as to what 60' times everyone here cuts, with what suspension, gear, and tires. I know it will be a broad coverage area of brands and parts, but i kinda want to get an idea of who runs what, it'll help if people list there experience/evaluation of what they are running as well.


my trip to the track i manage a best of a 1.98 60' with mach 1 rear springs, lakewood lift bars, stock uppers, stock shocks(still haven't put the tokicos on the rear), and some well worn nittos. Car would either spin real bad out the hole or after the rpms climbed high in first or second.., this with a 10-20 second burnout on the nittos to make sure they were hot.


Suspension imput for the Drag Application is welcome.....BFG of M/T DR's will be coming soon, hopefully before track day if the $'s permit

jason

[QWKSNKE]

Low 1.6's is my best right now. Car is making enough power to cut 1.5's though.

3.73 gears on DOT Hoosiers. Aftermarket upper and lower control arms

[04 Mach1]

Also low 1.6's when it was running right has upper adjustable homemade lowers lakewood drags on the back with Q1A oem replacement in the front and DOT Hossiers.

[QWKSNKE]

I need some adjustable shocks/struts on my car

[04 Mach1]

No you don't it takes away the streetablity.

[QWKSNKE]

Brian's tokicos do well :shrug:

[udloose]

1.52 60' is my best, but the norm is around 1.55...all I have is a set of lakewood traction action lift bars, stock upper control arms...nothing else....I use a set of micky thompson et streets, 26x10.5/17

[QWKSNKE]

Kevin,

Have you ripped your torque boxes yet? For the longest time I ran stock uppers with hp motorsport lowers and it caused me to tear both torque boxes

[One_live95]

so with some really sticky tires i should be able to cut the 60' times i want right? I think i will have some mickey thompsons here pretty soon, but don't know exactly when.


I think i have it worked out to borry a set of welds with bfg's on them for track day...maybe even the skinnies for the front


jason

[Disney Lincoln]

You need to get the front to come up and get it on the tires. Look more into the front end for now. Your parts in the rear sound OK (once you get the shocks on).

Our Stang has full UPR kit, 50/50, 70/30 front, 3.73 gear and C4 and cuts low 1.5's on motor.

My Hot Rod has adj. upper/lower, antiroll bar, 50/50 rear, 90/10 front, 4.10 gear, C4, and cuts mid 1.4's on spray.

My street car has all stock arms, KYB GR-2 in front, NAPA cheapo's in rear, stock 3.27 gear and AOD and cuts 1.85 all day.

All these cars run on MT DR's at the track.

[One_live95]

well i have sportlines in the front, with tokico HP struts, but i have been considering putting the mach 1 fronts back on it, it was definitely transferring the weight better that way. I prefer the lower look of the sportlines. What is the best way to get it low in the front, and also have a spring that will allow weight transfer. Can you buy a set of drag springs and cut them, and it still ride and handle well or what. What about 4 cylinder front springs. I think the only solution is gonna be a set of coilovers. but that is more ching i don't have at this moment

[Disney Lincoln]

Some 4 cyl or Eibach drag springs in the front would help your cause immensely. Those sportlines are killing your 60's!!!

To me, the drag springs don't ride bad at all. I rather enjoy the feel. Plus, they still sit pretty low and you can lower it more if you feel the need. Get the front end done, then see if you need some prings in the rear.

[udloose]

Lee,
I did rip the torque box on the driver side, but I have fixed it, I welded them up, and haven't had any type of problem since...
my car pulls 1.64s on the motor, and when I spray it, it's usually pulling 1.52-1.55s, I am thinking strongly about some uppers, anyone got a suggestion for some uppers??????????

[One_live95]

From what i have been reading the ford racing ones are best. Supposed to be stiffer yet have a little give in case of binding of the suspension. Best of all i found them on summits site for 60$


jason

[Disney Lincoln]

Lee,
I did rip the torque box on the driver side, but I have fixed it, I welded them up, and haven't had any type of problem since...
my car pulls 1.64s on the motor, and when I spray it, it's usually pulling 1.52-1.55s, I am thinking strongly about some uppers, anyone got a suggestion for some uppers??????????


For a drag car I would go to the UPR or similar double adjustable uppers with soherical rod ends. Also pick up a set of spherical upper control arm bushings for the rear end. Main thing it to allow full articulation without bind. AVOID anything with poly bushings!

[udloose]

disney,
Why u say to avoid poly bushings?? my lakewood lowers have poly bushings...

[Disney Lincoln]

Lowers I can tolerate the poly, uppers I can not.

They are too stiff. The durometer of the poly is about 6x that of a rubber bushing. They dont allow for any flex or movement other than in the direction that they are pinned in. The rubber and spherical allow more movement in all directions. The uppers in particular are subjected to more than just a fore/aft movement.

[One_live95]

so with a mostly street app. would you say the FRPP arms will suffice



jason

[QWKSNKE]

factory five control arms do very well in street/strip applications

[One_live95]

i tried to find it on their website, and all i could seem to find was the lowers.... maybe i wasn't looking in the right spot?

:shrug:


jason

[QWKSNKE]

http://parts.factoryfive.com/newcatalog/chassis/fourlink.htm

[One_live95]

:nice: not a bad price at all



jason

[Italian LX]

factory five control arms do very well in street/strip applications
I agree with the F5R's. I have been using their upper/lower combination for a few years now and am very pleased with their all-around performance.

[Disney Lincoln]

I concur, the FFR's are good pieces.

[SteedaChaos]

I taking it Nitto's aren't great at all for traction, i'm seeing non-DR class street meats hooking better than they do. I've managing high 1.90's now finally in street trim w/ Kumho ECSTA MX's and traction is awful to non-exisitent on mine w/ the stiff H&R SS springs/ poly-bushens/ Steeda upper adj./ stock lowers/ stock springs.

Throw on the drag slicks though and she sails 1.65-67 60fts.

[Italian LX]

I taking it Nitto's aren't great at all for traction, i'm seeing non-DR class street meats hooking better than they do.
In my experience, they work VERY good on the street, but only moderately good at the track. Also, after about 9,000 miles on them, they lose a good bit of their street tractions, and around 14,000 miles, they plain suck.

It's an excellent sticky street tire with decent tread life... but not good if you are frequenting the track a lot.

[QWKSNKE]

In my experience, they work VERY good on the street, but only moderately good at the track. Also, after about 9,000 miles on them, they lose a good bit of their street tractions, and around 14,000 miles, they plain suck.

It's an excellent sticky street tire with decent tread life... but not good if you are frequenting the track a lot.


I agree. I have to use the DR's on my car for everyday driving. I have cut 1.7's on the drag radials as well (back when I was in the 350 rwhp range)

[1Quik85GT]

1.42-.49 60fts... this is on ET Streets or a slick, 70/30 struts, 50/50 rear shocks, UPR lower control arms, steeda uppers...

[One_live95]

i'm scared of slicks on my tank, last time i did that i sheared every single tooth on 2nd off.


jason

[Italian LX]

i'm scared of slicks on my tank, last time i did that i sheared every single tooth on 2nd off.
Slicks usually destroy rearends and axles; I haven't seen a T-5 let go off the line or in 2nd gear. I'm not saying it won't happen, I'm just saying it's usually not caused just because slicks were in use.

Both time my T-5 went, it was 3rd gear and on street tires.

[One_live95]

it could possibly have been due to being setup wrong, it had been rebuilt around a month before..(before i learned how)

maybe it was just luck......lol



jason