Which Radiator

[Purple1995Pony]

I neeed to buy a new radiator for my '94. I know there was a thread on best bang for the buck about them here but can't find it. Help me out here guys.....Summer heat is here and I need to replace my 215,XXX mile radiator NOW!!

[ncontt]

I used the heavy duty 3 core replacement from Autozone/advance (can't recall which one) seems like it was in the 130-140 range....

[One_live95]

i have a thread farther back, where i took a summit universal and fabbed some brackets to make it factory style mount.


jason

[slvrbullit]

Advanced nor Autozone make a 3 core for the 94 to 95 stangs. I ended up going with a Fliudyne and I love it. Down here it gets pretty hot and driving down the highway, the car never gets above 180°. I paid right at 400 for mine with shipping from Mustangs Unlimited. Plus the fit was perfect and no fabbing needed.

[Purple1995Pony]

driving down the highway, the car never gets above 180°. I paid right at 400 for mine with shipping from Mustangs Unlimited. Plus the fit was perfect and no fabbing needed.


That's what I want!!!



I can get a Ron Davis tig welded for something just over $400. Thinking about just doing that instead of paying shipping too. Found a Fluiidyne for $$359.79 including shipping here: http://www.optionimports.com/fhp20-95mu.html

Just waiting on my parts connection (read O'Reilly Auto Parts Managers) to get back to me with their prices before I decide now. :jester:

[One_live95]

Advanced nor Autozone make a 3 core for the 94 to 95 stangs. I ended up going with a Fliudyne and I love it. Down here it gets pretty hot and driving down the highway, the car never gets above 180°. I paid right at 400 for mine with shipping from Mustangs Unlimited. Plus the fit was perfect and no fabbing needed.


with what thermostat and what fan mods?



jason

[slvrbullit]

with a 180° t-stat and no fan mods.

[Craig K.]

There was a place that I found on the corral 94/95 forum that had the Fluiddyne for like $335 shipped.

I'll try to find the link, but you should be able to find it doing a search in the forum.

here it is
http://www.absoluteradiator.com/

looks like the price went up, it is $360 shipped

[One_live95]

with a 180° t-stat and no fan mods.

with that my car still runs around 190-200..... That doesn't really make sense, i have a new thermostat etc, you don't have a chip or anything? It seems like it would have to run a little warmer than the thermostat you have. I wonder if it is something with my car, i has a new water pump etc..





jason

[slvrbullit]

with that my car still runs around 190-200..... That doesn't really make sense, i have a new thermostat etc, you don't have a chip or anything? It seems like it would have to run a little warmer than the thermostat you have. I wonder if it is something with my car, i has a new water pump etc..





jason

Well i did remove all the A/C stuff in the front.

[One_live95]

me too........ i'm missing something, that or something is wrong with it. You have underdrives?



jason

[slvrbullit]

I have underdrives, new Advance Auto parts Water pump, T-stat is about a year old, Fluidyne is about 2 years old, I have tweecer but the fan settings are at stock turn on temps, My fan assembly is about 3 years old.

Hell in the winter time I can be driving down the highway and the autometer guage never gets above 165 degrees. And I know I have a 180 in there because when I was burping the system of air when the guage hit 180 water in the radiator started flowing.

[Purple1995Pony]

part of the reason mine runs so hot is that I have an oil cooler mounted at the base of the chin spoiler in the lower valence. I still need a new radiator though....too many miles to ignore that !

[Purple1995Pony]

There was a place that I found on the corral 94/95 forum that had the Fluiddyne for like $335 shipped.

I'll try to find the link, but you should be able to find it doing a search in the forum.

here it is
http://www.absoluteradiator.com/

looks like the price went up, it is $360 shipped


yep that's the price I found in the above link too

[ncontt]

AFCO has a nice radiator as well....just an FYI..

http://www.afcoracing.com/afco_hp.html

[NightHawk756]

AFCO has a nice radiator as well....just an FYI..

http://www.afcoracing.com/afco_hp.html

Yep!;) That's the radiator I went with. But the pricing is pretty close to the fluidyne.

As far as the Afco, it's a quality piece. The tanks are good and thick and of course it's polished liked the Fluidyne.

Here's a pic......

[Purple1995Pony]

well I ordered the fluidyne at optionimports.com

radiator cost = $322.46
shipping cost = $37.51
______
total cost = $359.97

$90.00 less than AFCO radiator alone and $120.00 less than Ron Davis.


thanks all for your input!!!

[natedawgg94]

I wondering if i'm missing something here my car has right at 220k on it still with stock cooling except for a 160 degree thermostat. my ? is why aren't you guys running the 160 degree thermostat since you have cooling prob. cause my car in the summer heat doesn't get above the O in normal and in winter it barely makes it across the line. oh by the way this is my 94 gt i'm talking bout.:popcorn:

[slvrbullit]

I wondering if i'm missing something here my car has right at 220k on it still with stock cooling except for a 160 degree thermostat. my ? is why aren't you guys running the 160 degree thermostat since you have cooling prob. cause my car in the summer heat doesn't get above the O in normal and in winter it barely makes it across the line. oh by the way this is my 94 gt i'm talking bout.:popcorn:


Well I dont have an overheating problem but for what its worth, the Factory gage is not very accurate. Mine when it was still hooked up showed the same as you about to go past the "O" in normal which by autometers reading 190 degrees.

[natedawgg94]

i was just wondering myself i plant to go with the fluidyne later but lack of funds holding me back right lol

[TheJeanyus]

Nate resize that monstrous signature! :huh:

[Purple1995Pony]

I wondering if i'm missing something here my car has right at 220k on it still with stock cooling except for a 160 degree thermostat. my ? is why aren't you guys running the 160 degree thermostat since you have cooling prob. cause my car in the summer heat doesn't get above the O in normal and in winter it barely makes it across the line. oh by the way this is my 94 gt i'm talking bout.:popcorn:


I've got the radiator made by fluidyne. Looks exactly like the
AFCO one picturesd in this thread. I'll be putting a 160 thermostat in duriong the swap-over for extra insurance against overheating :drool:

[89 Hoss]

Will that thermostat also work on fox bodies? maybe a dumb question to some of you but i need to know. My coupe operates around 184 - 188 while the gt operates around 186 - 190. What is the quote unquote textbook operating temp. for these motors and will the 160 work for all? Do any mods that have been done to the motor effect the operating temp?

[Purple1995Pony]

well all I can say is WHEWWW!!! the running temp has gone down considerably (at least 30 degrees) after installing the new radiator and 160F thermostat this past weekend. :nice:

[vristang]

A word of caution about low cooling temps.

Coolant temps below ~180F will accelerate cylinder bore wear quite a bit. It is also likely that your are losing power, increasing emissions, and losing fuel economy.
Temps below ~165F or so (it changes depending on the EEC-IV programming) will cause the car to stay in warm up mode. This means excess fuel.

The lower coolant temps will decrease the thermal efficiency of the motor.

The ideal temps (for all of the above mentioned characteristics) seems to be around 195-210F.
If you live in a very hot area it may be difficult to control temps at the higher temps. It is in high temp areas that the 160 is appropriate. Other than that, I suggest staying away from the low coolant temps.

Personally I am cooling a 408w with a stock 2 core replacement rad, metal fan (no clutch), and flowcooler water pump.
My 197F T-stat sticks open once, so my coolant temps (as read from the datalog) never leave the low 190s. I have never been over 200F in a datalog.
I will be replacing the stat soon to try and get the temps back up where they should be.
Mr. Gasket is supposed to very good and reliable.

jason

[Purple1995Pony]

A word of caution about low cooling temps.

Coolant temps below ~180F will accelerate cylinder bore wear quite a bit. It is also likely that your are losing power, increasing emissions, and losing fuel economy.
Temps below ~165F or so (it changes depending on the EEC-IV programming) will cause the car to stay in warm up mode. This means excess fuel.

The lower coolant temps will decrease the thermal efficiency of the motor.

The ideal temps (for all of the above mentioned characteristics) seems to be around 195-210F.
If you live in a very hot area it may be difficult to control temps at the higher temps. It is in high temp areas that the 160 is appropriate. Other than that, I suggest staying away from the low coolant temps.

Personally I am cooling a 408w with a stock 2 core replacement rad, metal fan (no clutch), and flowcooler water pump.
My 197F T-stat sticks open once, so my coolant temps (as read from the datalog) never leave the low 190s. I have never been over 200F in a datalog.
I will be replacing the stat soon to try and get the temps back up where they should be.
Mr. Gasket is supposed to very good and reliable.

jason

well considering I was running at 220-230, I'm in the zone with the combo I have now. having a 160 t-stat does not necessarily mean that the engine is running at that temp, it just means that the t-stat opens at a lower temp to allow coolant flow through the main radiator hoses sooner than a 180 or 190 t-stat which helps reduce the operating temp and maintain it better.

Oh, and btw, the install went smooth exept for one thing. The bracket for the anti-lock brakes module??? (I think) on the inside of the passenger side frame rail was a bit of a squeeze to fit the much thicker radiator core and tank though.

[vristang]

well considering I was running at 220-230, I'm in the zone with the combo I have now. having a 160 t-stat does not necessarily mean that the engine is running at that temp, it just means that the t-stat opens at a lower temp to allow coolant flow through the main radiator hoses sooner than a 180 or 190 t-stat which helps reduce the operating temp and maintain it better.

Oh, and btw, the install went smooth exept for one thing. The bracket for the anti-lock brakes module??? (I think) on the inside of the passenger side frame rail was a bit of a squeeze to fit the much thicker radiator core and tank though.

Glad to hear the install went well.

What are the air temps in your area?
220-230F is a bit too high.
I agree that using a 160F stat does not mean that cooling system temps will be in the 160F range.
What is crucial is the temperature of the coolant, not so much the rating of the T-stat.

Hope the new setup works out.

[Purple1995Pony]

it's been in the high 80's or 90's here lately with relative humidity in the 70's+ but I drive in heavy traffic in the afternoon too so it's a lot of hot, slow, stop & go traffic fo 1-1/2 hours or more :drool: