cc plates ???????????

[97cobrasvt]

I just installed a set of A arms on my coupe it had svo a-arms and it had my front end out real bad well now that I installed the right ones my tires at the top are out more than the bottom my ? is what do I need to do to adj my cc plates I have never messed with any cc plates before so I'm lost any help would be appreciated

[Sendero]

More info! What car? What SVO A-Arms (Part #)? What replacement arms (Part #)? Has the car been wrecked? Does it have the Ford Crash bolts installed? Does it have the factory CC plates?

[coupe]

hmm. sounds almost like you have the wrong spindle on there (angle of the strut towards the tower. The SVO spindles were different. Are they still on there?

It may also have a mis-matched strut for the application. Not sure what the setup is. Like Sendero said: more info please :think:

[97cobrasvt]

its on a 89 coupe and the guy I got the car from said it had svo spindles and a arms on it well after I installed the a-arms the ball joint on the a-arm when installed to spindle just slids on there with no resistance and then installed the nut all the way down untill it bottomed out but the a-arm is not tight if you put a jack under the a-arm and jack it up the a-arm raises up about an inch or so but the nut is already bottomed out.The ball joint shaft the part that goes through the spindle is not large enough so I believe I will have to change spindles now.I know people use spindles off other cars but I dont know what cars will work so if you know let me know please:fback: :doh: :headbang:

[coupe]

Yea. Like I suspected, you have SVO spindles. not compatible with the regular Fox A-arm & ball-joint. SVO setups are one-of-a-kind.

Best bet is to go all SN95 up front. The width is good and the geometry works.

If you must keep the fox arms and stuff, go with an aftermarket front brake conversion like aerospace, strange, wilwood, baer, etc. and use the regular fox arms & spindles. AJE has some sweet drop-spindles for a fox so the car sits low with factory spring heigth. :yup: nice. :nice:

[97cobrasvt]

so if I go with a sn95 set up will I be able to use the a-arms I bought on that set up also does it matter if its a gt or a v6 car that I get the spindles off of thanks

[Sendero]

so if I go with a sn95 set up will I be able to use the a-arms I bought on that set up also does it matter if its a gt or a v6 car that I get the spindles off of thanks

Correct. You can even use the 99+ PBR Calipers from the GT with a small modification via a dremel tool.

[hevymtl]

Just take the car back where you got it!:yup:

[97cobrasvt]

thanks for all ya's help

[97cobrasvt]

Just take the car back where you got it!:yup:

Hey you can kiss my fat :kissmyass

[hevymtl]

Hey you can kiss my fat :kissmyass

I aint got all day!!:D

[Craig K.]

So what a-arms and ball joints do you have in it now?
Are they stamped steel, or a forged casting?
Stamped steel = all FOX's SN95's
Forged steel = SVO

Also if you need, I have a set of 87-93 spindles that I would sell.

[97cobrasvt]

well I bought some a-arms for it some tubular ones but the ones in it was tubular cast a-arms I was told they are from a svo them and the spindles so I'm looking for some spindles now I already have the right a-arms

[97cobrasvt]

So what a-arms and ball joints do you have in it now?
Are they stamped steel, or a forged casting?
Stamped steel = all FOX's SN95's
Forged steel = SVO

Also if you need, I have a set of 87-93 spindles that I would sell.

Thanks but I have a set of 5 lug pro stars already so I will find some 5 lug spindles to go back on.

[Craig K.]

Thanks but I have a set of 5 lug pro stars already so I will find some 5 lug spindles to go back on.

On the early Fox cars, the spindle has nothing to do with the lug's.
The lugs are part of the brake rotor, and the bearing is also, this assembly bolts to the spindle.

If you have upgraded to 94 up spindles, the the hub bearing/lug's are bolted to the spindle, and the brake will come off of this, (two piece system).

[97cobrasvt]

On the early Fox cars, the spindle has nothing to do with the lug's.
The lugs are part of the brake rotor, and the bearing is also, this assembly bolts to the spindle.

If you have upgraded to 94 up spindles, the the hub bearing/lug's are bolted to the spindle, and the brake will come off of this, (two piece system).



ya I know I looked at summit racing but if I wanted to go with cross drilled rotors I would have to bye a hole new brake caliper set up to clear the rotors because the rotors are 13 inch instead of 11 inch . You can bye the five lug conversion from ford racing that will except the stock brake calipers and 4 lug spindles but they dont offer it in a cross drilled rotor still

[Sendero]

ya I know I looked at summit racing but if I wanted to go with cross drilled rotors I would have to bye a hole new brake caliper set up to clear the rotors because the rotors are 13 inch instead of 11 inch . You can bye the five lug conversion from ford racing that will except the stock brake calipers and 4 lug spindles but they dont offer it in a cross drilled rotor still

You can skip the cross-drilled rotors, they have no measureable benefit with current brake pad technology. Cross-drilling a rotor, while decreasing unsprung weight, creates a weak spot for stress fractures to form. Even slotted rotors contribute to the "weakening" of a rotor, but they are the only modification which will net a measureable gain which comes in the form of "wiping" away debris and water from the pad/rotor mating surface.

I know this post will catch some "internet opinions", so here's some quotes from experts in the field of brake technology.


Darrick Dong; Director of Motorsports at Performance Friction: "Anyone that
tells you that drilling makes the disc run cooler is smoking crack."

Power Slot: "At one time the conventional wisdom in racing circles was to cross-drill brake rotors to aid cooling and eliminate the gas emitted by brake pads. However, today's elite teams in open wheel, Indy and Trans Am racing are moving away from crack prone, cross-drilled brake rotors in favor of rotors modified with a fatigue resistant slotting process."

Stop Tech: "StopTech provides rotors slotted, drilled or plain. For most performance applications slotted is the preferred choice. Slotting helps wipe away debris from between the pad and rotor as well as increasing the "bite" characteristics of the pad. A drilled rotor provides the same type of benefit, but is more susceptible to cracking under severe usage. Many customers prefer the look of a drilled rotor and for street and occasional light duty track use they will work fine. For more severe applications, we recommend slotted rotors." (Note that even though Stop Tech sells both drilled and slotted rotors they do not recommend drilled rotors for severe applications.)

Wilwood: "Q: Why are some rotors drilled or slotted?
A: Rotors are drilled to reduce rotating weight, an issue near and dear to racers searching for ways to minimize unsprung weight. Drilling diminishes a rotor's durability and cooling capacity."

From Waren Gilliand: (Warren Gilliland is a well-known brake engineer in the racing industry and has more than 32 years experience in custom designing brake systems ...he became the main source for improving the brake systems on a variety of different race vehicles from midgets to Nascar Winston Cup cars.) "If you cross drill one of these vented rotors, you are creating a stress riser that will encourage the rotor to crack right through the hole. Many of the rotors available in the aftermarket are nothing more than inexpensive offshore manufactured stock replacement rotors, cross drilled to appeal to the performance market. They are not performance rotors and will have a corresponding high failure rate"


From Baer: "What are the benefits to Crossdrilling, Slotting, and Zinc-Washing my rotors? In years past, crossdrilling and/or Slotting the rotor for racing purposes was beneficial by providing a way to expel the gasses created when the bonding agents employed to manufacture the pads...However, with today's race pad technology, 'outgassing' is no longer much of a concern...Slotted surfaces are what Baer recommends for track only use. Slotted only rotors are offered as an option for any of Baer's offerings."

Grassroots Motorsports: "Crossdrilling your rotors might look neat, but what is it really doing for you? Well, unless your car is using brake pads from the '40s and 50s, not a whole lot. Rotors were first drilled because early brake pad materials gave off gasses when heated to racing temperatures, a process known as "gassing out." ...It was an effective solution, but today's friction materials do not exhibit the some gassing out phenomenon as the early pads. Contrary to popular belief, they don't lower temperatures. (In fact, by removing weight from the rotor, they can actually cause
temperatures to increase a little.) These holes create stress risers that allow the rotor to crack sooner, and make a mess of brake pads--sort of like a cheese grater rubbing against them at every stop. Want more evidence? Look at NASCAR or F1. You would think that if drilling holes in the rotor was the hot ticket, these teams would be doing it...Slotting rotors, on the other hand, might be a consideration if your sanctioning body allows for it. Cutting thin slots across the face of the rotor can actually help to clean
the face of the brake pads over time, helping to reduce the glazing often found during high-speed use which can lower the coefficient of friction. While there may still be a small concern over creating stress risers in the face of the rotor, if the slots are shallow and cut properly, the trade-off appears to be worth the risk. (Have you looked at a NASCAR rotor lately?)

AP Racing: "Grooves improve 'cleaning' of the pad surfaces and result in a more consistent brake performance. Grooved discs have a longer life than cross-drilled discs."

[97cobrasvt]

interesting I wondered about that