fireguy50
04-16-2007, 10:56 PM
March 2002 I got a cheep rebuilt 5.8L short block pushed 0.060 (F0AE non-roller block w/ cast pistons)
May 2005 the GT40P incorrect valve springs killed the cam / lifters.
14 Lifters came out no problem, while 2 of them had mushroomed and were pried out.
I left the cylinder heads on, and didn’t touch the rotating assembly. Reassembled with link bar roller lifters and cam.
I’ve had low oil pressure after the roller cam install. I’m guessing metal shavings weren’t completely flushed out and have affected the main bearings. I’ve also heard those 2 lifter bores could be screwed and are losing pressure as well. I use 15-40 oil to get 50PSI cold 25-30 warm.
Now that it’s getting warmer outside, I’ll see 15PSI after a full throttle run spikes the coolant to 190F with on the 180 thermostat. I need to start planning the fix now, while I’m saving money.
Could those 2 lifter bores be scared making this block non-rebuildable?
I already have the link-bar lifters so I don’t need a F4TE block.
May 2005 the GT40P incorrect valve springs killed the cam / lifters.
14 Lifters came out no problem, while 2 of them had mushroomed and were pried out.
I left the cylinder heads on, and didn’t touch the rotating assembly. Reassembled with link bar roller lifters and cam.
I’ve had low oil pressure after the roller cam install. I’m guessing metal shavings weren’t completely flushed out and have affected the main bearings. I’ve also heard those 2 lifter bores could be screwed and are losing pressure as well. I use 15-40 oil to get 50PSI cold 25-30 warm.
Now that it’s getting warmer outside, I’ll see 15PSI after a full throttle run spikes the coolant to 190F with on the 180 thermostat. I need to start planning the fix now, while I’m saving money.
Could those 2 lifter bores be scared making this block non-rebuildable?
I already have the link-bar lifters so I don’t need a F4TE block.