Replacing a pinnion seal

[Craig K.]

If I have to replace a pinnion seal can I:

1) Measure the rotating torque with an inch pound dial wrench on the pinnion nut
2) Loosen the pinnion nut
3) remove the carrier
4) remove the pinnion gear
5) replace the seal
6) re-install the pinnion
7) re-install the carrier, placing the shims in the same order and placement as they came out
8) re-tighten the pinnion nut to achieve the same rotating toque as before the disassembly

I have a leak on the seal, and it is loosing about half a teaspoon every few days.

[QWKSNKE]

All you do is..
Remove driveshaft
Remove pinion nut and flange
Remove seal

Reinstall in reverse order

[Craig K.]

All you do is..
Remove driveshaft
Remove pinion nut and flange
Remove seal

Reinstall in reverse order

Do you have to measure the rotating torque of the pinnion, so you set it the same (like a preload), or is it just a straight torque number?

[QWKSNKE]

As long as you are not replacing the crush sleeve (which you wouldn't be) tighten the nut up to where you have the front to back slop out of the pinion. Do not tighten it up so much that you cannot rotate the rear end.

I can't give you a torque spec because you may crush the pinion sleeve which does not need to be crushed again.

Treat it like a front wheel bearing on a older car. Rotate assembly, tighten, rotate assembly, etc

[04 Mach1]

Mark the yoke to the rear end housing mark the pinion nut to the yoke and to the pinion. Make sure every thing lines up in the end.

[QWKSNKE]

Mark the yoke to the rear end housing mark the pinion nut to the yoke and to the pinion. Make sure every thing lines up in the end.

+1 Or at least verify that the factory yellow markings are still on the driveshaft and pinion flange

[Craig K.]

+1 Or at least verify that the factory yellow markings are still on the driveshaft and pinion flange

They are.

Thanks Lee for the input, hopefully I get to do this in the next week or two.

[coupe]

FORD states that you cannot reuse the crush sleeve, but with the threadlock on there, it is fine. Without a lift, you would be looking at a major pain in the ass trying to torque a pinion nut with a new crush sleeve. It is a bear to do.

The measuring of the spinning resistance is just for mechanics going by the books because they do not have common sense. Just as long as it does not drag. You should be able to spin the whole thing without it dragging.

[QWKSNKE]

FORD states that you cannot reuse the crush sleeve, but with the threadlock on there, it is fine. .

bah... Ford don't know anything :D

[coupe]

:werd: Sometimes I wonder. :nono:

[Italian LX]

FORD states that you cannot reuse the crush sleeve, but with the threadlock on there, it is fine.
Actually, threadlocker wouldn't have any bearing on whether you reuse the crush sleeve or not. The nut will not stay on any better with a new sleeve versus an old one. However, they do recommend replacing the pinion nut when it is removed and the new ones have threadlocker already on them.

Without a lift, you would be looking at a major pain in the ass trying to torque a pinion nut with a new crush sleeve. It is a bear to do.
I have crushed a new sleeve with my coupe on jack stands and no air tools. Definitely a pain in the ass. I had to fabricate a steel bar that bolted up to the pinion flange to keep it stationary while I torqued the pinion nut. I think I read somewhere where it takes around 280 ft-lbs to crush the sleeve. :eek:

[coupe]

Yes, it is some outrageous torque number...hard to achieve under a car. :tlash:

But my 9" will allow me to set all that stuff up on the bench. :banana:

[Craig K.]

do you need a puller to get the flange off of the pinnion gear, or can you pill it off by hand?

[QWKSNKE]

depends on the car. I have worked on some that the flange would slide right off and some where you had to tap it for a little bit with a hammer

[Italian LX]

depends on the car. I have worked on some that the flange would slide right off and some where you had to tap it for a little bit with a hammer
:stupid:

You'll prpbably want to have a puller available.

[Craig K.]

Thanks for the help guys, I will probably do this the week after we get back from vacation (about 3 weekends).

I might have more questions when the time gets closure, so keep an eye on the thread.

Craig

[Craig K.]

I am looking at doing this over the weekend.
Reading back through the post, I think I should use lock-tite on the pinnion nut (blue) and from what you guys are saying, it sounds like the nut will have a fairly low torque value, is this correct?

I am thinking of renting a dial troque wrench to measure the off torque to get an idea of were I should put it back to.

Any additonal insight on the pinnion nut torque (measured value) would be helpful, otherwise I will just wing it...and hope for the best.

[Craig K.]

Sorry, forgot to add does anyone know the torque on the differential pin bolt?

As I recall last time I used blue locktite, and a torque of around 30 ft. lbs, but I can't remeber for sure.

[QWKSNKE]

tighten enough where you can still rotate the assembly with a little resistance. If you can't rotate it then it is to tight

[Italian LX]

tighten enough where you can still rotate the assembly with a little resistance. If you can't rotate it then it is to tight
Craig is talking about the bolt that holds the pin in the carrier.

If you use a new bolt, the thread locker is already on it. If you're reusing one, just dab a little blue locktite on it and tighten with an box-end wrench. 30 ftlbs seems awfully much for that small bolt.

[QWKSNKE]

Craig is talking about the bolt that holds the pin in the carrier.

If you use a new bolt, the thread locker is already on it. If you're reusing one, just dab a little blue locktite on it and tighten with an box-end wrench. 30 ftlbs seems awfully much for that small bolt.

oops.

I thought you were just doing the seal Craig? Did you decide to disassemble the rear?

[Craig K.]

sorry, yes doing the seal and needed to know that torque.

Also doing the outer axle bearings, so I needed the pin bolt torque too.

The rear end started making noise on me two weeks ago.
Last weekend I check the fluid leve and it was low.
I added in a quart of fluid, but the noise is still there.

I am betting that it is the axle bearings, since it was that low, they probably went dry and got hot.


I thought about just doing a whole rebuild and putting in a gear at the same time, but I don't have the $$$ to do it now (not until the house in Hoover sells).

[QWKSNKE]

if the fluid was low, you toasted the pinion bearing. More than likely that is your noise

[Craig K.]

Well, just got 70% done with this tonight.
Change the seal (cause of leak) and the LH axle bearing and seal, was planning on doing the rh tomorrow, but now I am not sure.
The LH bearing looked fine. After seing your comment Lee, I wonder if its worth changing the rh, I'll at least pull the axle and look at it.

You have to pull the whole diff, and the pinnion flange to get the pinnion out, right?
Is the pinnion bearing pressed on?
Also when I put the pinnion nut back on, I tried to tighten it just enough, I think I may have gone a hair to fair though because rotating over on the forward direction is slightly harder than in the reverse direction, and it feels like it wants to hang up in one spot.

I may want to redo this tightening, so I may still be able to change the pinnion bearing if it is not pressed on, if I did change the bearing can I just through it all back together?


P.S. concerning the message I left last night, yes I did get the bolt out!

[QWKSNKE]

Well, just got 70% done with this tonight.
Change the seal (cause of leak) and the LH axle bearing and seal, was planning on doing the rh tomorrow, but now I am not sure.
The LH bearing looked fine. After seing your comment Lee, I wonder if its worth changing the rh, I'll at least pull the axle and look at it.

You have to pull the whole diff, and the pinnion flange to get the pinnion out, right?
Is the pinnion bearing pressed on?
Also when I put the pinnion nut back on, I tried to tighten it just enough, I think I may have gone a hair to fair though because rotating over on the forward direction is slightly harder than in the reverse direction, and it feels like it wants to hang up in one spot.

I may want to redo this tightening, so I may still be able to change the pinnion bearing if it is not pressed on, if I did change the bearing can I just through it all back together?


P.S. concerning the message I left last night, yes I did get the bolt out!


yes. the diff has to come out.
yes the pinion bearing is a pressed on item.

[coupe]

Man all this shit reminds me how I hate it. In this case Craig, I'm kinda glad you're 600 miles away. :D

[Craig K.]

well, the gist of it all is that due to a leaking pinnion seal, I had fried the diff. carrier bearings.

I had the bearings changed, and changed the seal, and so far so good (75 miles on it so far).

I have a slight humming noise, but it may be more tire noise (I am listening more now than before) I still have to try and diagnosis this tonight.

Two tricks that I learned
1) If the factory cast iron shims are too tight, they can be sanded down with a belt sander. Make sure you have a mic/caliper and check at four points when doing this to make sure you keep it flat.
(anyone want to buy a brand new shim kit)

2) When reinstalling a trac-lock S spring, put the spring in the freezer for about 15 minutes, I did this and it only took two tapes with a hammer to get the S spring installed.

[QWKSNKE]

Congrats on getting it done Craig. I figured you must have gotten finished when I didn't hear from you any this week

[Craig K.]

Thanks Lee (for the help and advice too, Brian and Matt too).

On the drive home today (had the top down) I heard no major noises.
Looked underneath and so far clean and dry.

I am hoping it's all a go from here, I'll let yall know if it goes south (no pun)

Craig