$20 A/C delete and short belt mod

96GTS · 10-27-2005, 09:41 PM

I'll try to take it apart again and get pics this weekend.

I eliminated both idler pullies and the A/C pump. Total spent =
$16.99 for the belt
$0.09 for the washer
-------------
$17.08

By flipping the ribbed idler around and using that on the tensioner with a spacer, it lines up perfectly.

Take the ribbed idler off and hit the front edge (the side w/ the part number) with a flat grinder. Just a tiny amount of material needs to be taken off. The front side will now be facing the timing cover and that is what you're clearancing.

Take a washer and drill in out with a 5/8" drill bit. The OD needs to be small enough to fit in the recessed area of the pulley. The washer/spacer goes over the boss on the tensioner and the ribbed idler goes on and the assy is put together.

Next buy a 71" or 71.5" belt from autozone. The only ownside to this it the tensioner needs to be loosened up to change the belt. So remember to get the belt started around the tensioner before you tighten it up to the timing cover.

Then route the belt like in my picture.

I think this looks cleaner than the FRPP A/C delete pulley ($50) and is basically the same exact thing UPR charges $150 for and PHP charges $200.

myillwillinc · 11-01-2005, 03:09 PM

thats a dohc, it works on sohc also? i'll do it this weekend...

rtusnake · 11-01-2005, 09:07 PM

It should if you have that same style tensioner and its place on the timing cover

96GTS · 11-01-2005, 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by myillwillinc

thats a dohc, it works on sohc also? i'll do it this weekend...

As long as it is the single bolt tensioner, and not the three bolt one...

96GTS · 11-06-2005, 12:28 PM

PICS:

Here's where the A/C pump used to be

The canister and all the lines removed

The condensor that was blocking my radiator is gone. With the elec fan on, you can put your hand in front of the radiator and feel it sucking the air through

These rubber fins were behind the condensor to direct air to the radiator. When I pulled the condensor out, it left big gapping areas on the sid of the radiator. So I drilled 4 small holes in the trim panels and put these on to keep air from going around the rad. Not sure how much this helps, but it was free and, according to physics, it HAS to do something:blink:

Overall pic of motor. Next up is relocating the fuse box, manual steering and brakes, and a Meziere elec WP.

rtusnake · 11-06-2005, 02:33 PM

Looks good. I'm going to put the black panels on like yours when I do mine here soon or whenever I do it. Seems like they would help.

10-27-2005, 09:41 PM	#1
96GTS Mine's bigger... Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: SoCal Posts: 1,060	$20 A/C delete and short belt mod I'll try to take it apart again and get pics this weekend. I eliminated both idler pullies and the A/C pump. Total spent = $16.99 for the belt $0.09 for the washer ------------- $17.08 By flipping the ribbed idler around and using that on the tensioner with a spacer, it lines up perfectly. Take the ribbed idler off and hit the front edge (the side w/ the part number) with a flat grinder. Just a tiny amount of material needs to be taken off. The front side will now be facing the timing cover and that is what you're clearancing. Take a washer and drill in out with a 5/8" drill bit. The OD needs to be small enough to fit in the recessed area of the pulley. The washer/spacer goes over the boss on the tensioner and the ribbed idler goes on and the assy is put together. Next buy a 71" or 71.5" belt from autozone. The only ownside to this it the tensioner needs to be loosened up to change the belt. So remember to get the belt started around the tensioner before you tighten it up to the timing cover. Then route the belt like in my picture. I think this looks cleaner than the FRPP A/C delete pulley ($50) and is basically the same exact thing UPR charges $150 for and PHP charges $200. __________________ 323rwhp \| 320rwtq - 4VNA 12.13 @ 113.36 \| 1.63 60'

11-01-2005, 03:09 PM	#2
myillwillinc Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 593	Re: $20 A/C delete and short belt mod thats a dohc, it works on sohc also? i'll do it this weekend... __________________ 5.4 project in the works..... link: http://www.illwillinc.com/97mustang.htm PowderCoating and Anodizing: http://www.illwillinc.com/

11-01-2005, 09:07 PM	#3
rtusnake Halfshaft Killer Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: The Kingdom Posts: 3,910	Re: $20 A/C delete and short belt mod It should if you have that same style tensioner and its place on the timing cover __________________ 03 Cobra 06 F250 (\__/) (='.'=) (")_(")

11-06-2005, 12:28 PM	#5
96GTS Mine's bigger... Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: SoCal Posts: 1,060	Re: $20 A/C delete and short belt mod PICS: Here's where the A/C pump used to be The canister and all the lines removed The condensor that was blocking my radiator is gone. With the elec fan on, you can put your hand in front of the radiator and feel it sucking the air through These rubber fins were behind the condensor to direct air to the radiator. When I pulled the condensor out, it left big gapping areas on the sid of the radiator. So I drilled 4 small holes in the trim panels and put these on to keep air from going around the rad. Not sure how much this helps, but it was free and, according to physics, it HAS to do something:blink: Overall pic of motor. Next up is relocating the fuse box, manual steering and brakes, and a Meziere elec WP. __________________ 323rwhp \| 320rwtq - 4VNA 12.13 @ 113.36 \| 1.63 60'

11-06-2005, 02:33 PM	#6
rtusnake Halfshaft Killer Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: The Kingdom Posts: 3,910	Re: $20 A/C delete and short belt mod Looks good. I'm going to put the black panels on like yours when I do mine here soon or whenever I do it. Seems like they would help. __________________ 03 Cobra 06 F250 (\__/) (='.'=) (")_(")