4.6 Auto to Manual Tranny Swap

[banditmwp]

This was done on my wife's '96 GT, going from a 4R70/W to a T-45.

First thing...

Make a reservation at a reputable mental institution (such as Bryce) so you will know where to be contacted after this swap drives you crazy.


Parts you will need:

• Transmission

• Transmission Wiring Harness

• PCM

• Clutch Kit

• Pressure Plate to Flywheel Bolts

• Pilot Bearing

• Flywheel

• Flywheel to Crank Bolts

• Clutch Fork

• Clutch Fork Pivot Ball

• Clutch Cable/Quadrant/Firewall Adjuster

• Clutch/brake Pedal Assy

• Block to Bellhousing Plate

• Shifter

• Lower and Upper Shifter Boots

• 3 Quarts Transmission Fluid

• Transmission Mount

• Front Slip-Yoke for Driveshaft

• 3-4 unsuspecting friends

Set aside a full weekend to do the swap...

Remove the auto tranny and all related accessories...mount, cable, torque converter, flexplate, block plate, etc.

Unplug transmission wiring harness from PCM feed behind the right strut tower and pull it out. Plug new harness into PCM feed and drop down behind engine.

Install block plate, flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate onto engine.

Install clutch fork pivot ball and place the TOB on the clutch fork, then install clutch fork.

Remove center console from car, and remove the auto shifter and all associated cables.

Test fit the transmission to determine where you will need to cut the transmission tunnel for the shifter to fit.

Using a die grinder and cut-off wheel, enlarge shifter hole so that the shifter housing will fit with about 1/4" clearance on all four sides. Also test fit the lower shifter boot and mark holes for mounting screws.

Mount transmission, scratch head for 15 or 20 minutes wondering why shifter housing sits so far into passenger compartment. Realize that whoever told you that the bodies were the same for auto and manual lied to you and curse them bitterly.

Bend and trim lower shifter boot until transmission rests properly when crossmember and mount are installed.

Install manual transmission slip yoke onto existing driveshaft.

Install driveshaft and shifter.

Temporarily route clutch cable and remove grommet from firewall. Attach adjuster to firewall.

NOW FOR THE FUN STUFF.

Remove the driver's seat for easier access to pedals assembly if you haven't already.

Disconnect all wires from the pedal brackets, disconnect brake booster push rod, and uncouple steering shaft to allow pedals clearance to be removed.

Stand up for 20-30 minutes to keep from getting a nosebleed. (Ask Sendero on this one. )

Install manual pedals assembly and reconnect brake light switch, brake push rod, and steering shaft. Find jumped clutch pedal position switch harness and attach it to clutch pedal position switch. Attach clutch cable to quadrant.

Reinstall center console and driver's seat. Pray devoutly.

Attach clutch cable to clutch fork and secure cable to the frame rail.

You will need to use the current computer until you can get to a dealer to have the computer for the 5-speed programmed for your PATS key. May I suggest buying the M/T computer for the same specs (CA Emission/Federal Emission; etc.) as your Automatic computer.

The swap took us a total of about 24 hours and we didn't run into any major complications.

[1sicklx]

There's part of me that wanted to do a trans swap, but looking at this ... I think I'll stick with the auto

Good tech reguardless

[Italian LX]

Originally Posted by banditmwp

• 3-4 unsuspecting friends

Originally Posted by banditmwp

Test fit the transmission to determine where you will need to cut the transmission tunnel for the shifter to fit.

Using a die grinder and cut-off wheel, enlarge shifter hole so that the shifter housing will fit with about 1/4" clearance on all four sides. Also test fit the lower shifter boot and mark holes for mounting screws.

Mount transmission, scratch head for 15 or 20 minutes wondering why shifter housing sits so far into passenger compartment. Realize that whoever told you that the bodies were the same for auto and manual lied to you and curse them bitterly.

You forgot to mention beating the hell out of the tranny tunnel to allow the body to clear the shifter base.

[99LS1]

So I guess "installation is the reversal of removal" doesn't apply here

good work

[Scothew]

Good writeup! I had always looked at a 5-speed swap in my 00 GT but everywhere I read and asked questions, I always got the same answer "Get a 5-speed car".

[banditmwp]

Originally Posted by Scothew

Good writeup! I had always looked at a 5-speed swap in my 00 GT but everywhere I read and asked questions, I always got the same answer "Get a 5-speed car".

You'd get that answer from me now.

but on a better note, I put in the new PCM and fixed the exhaust leaks today, car feels much stronger than it did as an auto.

[FastRedPonyCar]

You think you would have learned your lesson about ford transmission work the last time you were under my car.

[PonyChick]

Originally Posted by FastRedPonyCar

You think you would have learned your lesson about ford transmission work the last time you were under my car.

Well fortunately mine only had one rounded bolt issue. And we had no issues getting the auto out. It was only getting everything situated with the 5-speed going in. It's still well worth what we went through. Makes a hell of a difference!

[FastRedPonyCar]

Did you guys have the same ordeal trying to remove the top two bellhousing bolts? Painful memories...

[banditmwp]

Originally Posted by FastRedPonyCar

Did you guys have the same ordeal trying to remove the top two bellhousing bolts? Painful memories...

Your car was simply possessed by Beelzebub.

We had the tranny out in under 4 hours, 1 of which was taken up by Brian busting a nut off. One of the converter to flywheel bolts was frozen and he ended up chiseling it off.