Spec Throwout Bearing - Page 5

joker · 12-08-2005, 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flashbang756

Man, that's what I thought. Sheesh.

That price is also with using your stock mainshaft, and overdrive gear. If you want the upgraded mainshaft it is either an extra $335 for the nickel steel, or $495 for the hardened alloy. So you might as all say $1500 before putting it together and installation.

NightHawk756 · 12-08-2005, 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joker

That price is also with using your stock mainshaft, and overdrive gear. If you want the upgraded mainshaft it is either an extra $335 for the nickel steel, or $495 for the hardened alloy. So you might as all say $1500 before putting it together and installation.

Saving for a tko isn't sounding near as bad now.

joker · 12-08-2005, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flashbang756

Saving for a tko isn't sounding near as bad now.

Nope it isnt is it. I have heard though that the newer tko's have a bad problem with being really notchy. That and they are still only rated to 600 torque. I will most likely go with a rebuilt 3550 if I do go with a manual tranny.

joker · 12-08-2005, 12:53 PM

Now that I think about it, isnt a gforce trany the same kind that shankin blew the crap out of after only about 10 miles of city driving, and they wouldnt do crap to help him out with it?

coupe · 12-08-2005, 01:21 PM

From a clutch/driveline industry standpoint, I think I would go for the TKO 600. That's a big-seller and there's some huge power #'s out of them. THey can be modified too for almost indestructable power.

As for breaking them or a G-Force: I could install one wrong or leave something loose and a stock 5.0L would kill it in a day. I would replace all components down there to make sure nothing's binding up or worn-out enough to cause play or offset installs.

QWKSNKE · 12-08-2005, 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joker

Nope it isnt is it. I have heard though that the newer tko's have a bad problem with being really notchy. That and they are still only rated to 600 torque. I will most likely go with a rebuilt 3550 if I do go with a manual tranny.

not only that, there seems to be several tko 500 and 600's that are just flat out blowing apart.

and yes it was a g-force that Shankin destroyed

joker · 12-08-2005, 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by QWKSNKE

not only that, there seems to be several tko 500 and 600's that are just flat out blowing apart.

and yes it was a g-force that Shankin destroyed

Yea, I dont remember what all I read as it was a while back, but I had basically decided against the tko 500 and 600. I think they had some kind of problem going into third after a while as well. Not the same I missed third problem that crappy drivers have with a t5, but the tranny actually would no longer go into gear, at all.

joker · 12-08-2005, 01:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coupe

As for breaking them or a G-Force: I could install one wrong or leave something loose and a stock 5.0L would kill it in a day. I would replace all components down there to make sure nothing's binding up or worn-out enough to cause play or offset installs.

That is true, but that doesnt mean his was installed wrong. Of coarse that is the reason gfroce gave. It is really easy for a manufacturer to claim bad installation instead of standing behind the product.

NightHawk756 · 12-08-2005, 02:04 PM

Yep, the problems with the new TKO's is disturbing. Me and Brian had already discussed that to a point by PM's. It's a hard decision. Well, not really when you don't have the duckies to drop down on one at the moment anyway.

M1Speed · 12-08-2005, 02:09 PM

Brad i would replace the trans so you can dyno it. Then the rearend before track use. It will cost you more if something blows apart, dont wait till it breaks. This is from replacing all the bearings and about two hours worth of cleaning all the shavings and pieces of metal out of my rearend.

P.S. Stock tob 39,000 no problem

12-08-2005, 12:53 PM	#44
joker Friends Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Southern Colorado Posts: 2,452	Re: Spec Throwout Bearing Now that I think about it, isnt a gforce trany the same kind that shankin blew the crap out of after only about 10 miles of city driving, and they wouldnt do crap to help him out with it?

12-08-2005, 01:21 PM	#45
coupe Super Moderator Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 6,313	Re: Spec Throwout Bearing From a clutch/driveline industry standpoint, I think I would go for the TKO 600. That's a big-seller and there's some huge power #'s out of them. THey can be modified too for almost indestructable power. As for breaking them or a G-Force: I could install one wrong or leave something loose and a stock 5.0L would kill it in a day. I would replace all components down there to make sure nothing's binding up or worn-out enough to cause play or offset installs. __________________ " If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough. " - Albert Einstein

12-08-2005, 02:04 PM	#49
NightHawk756 Si vis pacem, para bellum Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Tick-Tock, Tick-Tock....... Posts: 5,146	Re: Spec Throwout Bearing Yep, the problems with the new TKO's is disturbing. Me and Brian had already discussed that to a point by PM's. It's a hard decision. Well, not really when you don't have the duckies to drop down on one at the moment anyway. __________________ 1989 Saleen SSC 1988 AL DPS SSP

12-08-2005, 02:09 PM	#50
M1Speed Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 273	Re: Spec Throwout Bearing Brad i would replace the trans so you can dyno it. Then the rearend before track use. It will cost you more if something blows apart, dont wait till it breaks. This is from replacing all the bearings and about two hours worth of cleaning all the shavings and pieces of metal out of my rearend. P.S. Stock tob 39,000 no problem