anybody with big block knowledge

[95cobra]

Originally Posted by waypastcrazy

I have ran it with stock springs. But they have to be in very good conditon.I suggest an upgrade not knowing condition. I would get a set of the drop in springs.for insurance.

Drop in springs?

[waypastcrazy]

Lol. Drop in are upgrade springs you do not have to machine spring pockets to install.the cam mentioned can coil bind with stock springs you also have to check top of. Valve guide bosses to make sure the bottom of retainer does not hit it at max lift. With that cam it is def close. Sometimes a little has to be taken off the top of guide boss.just don't want to lead you wrong. You can step down a size or 2 on cam with your compression. I know. The factory cam is around .480 .490 lift. 190 200 dur. The cam I suggested is just a good streetable cam.be safe and check clearances. Pls

[waypastcrazy]

Been drivn all night.lol. If you are going to spray it I suggest a spring upgrade regardless if you change cam or not.the quick revs of the spray will make short work of the springs if it hasn't already.now with that said!3 of the last few dove head motors I have messed with ran cams with 560 lift or tad bit more with machining the guide boss tops. 2 of those with dovec 1 with dovea. Same head just manufactured in different plants.but all of them had the viton teflon type valve seals.which are the little round ones with wire wrapped around them. The stock type umbrella seals will get beat out for sure because they are thicker.not as much clearance between them and spring retainer at max lift. If you want to check the clearance before you decide to do a cam swap or not. Feeler gauge between the top of seal and bottom of retainer at max lift. With the cam that's in it. Take that measurement and subtract the xtra amount of lift on the xe274.I would upgrade valve seals anyway since the engine has some age and has sit for awhile. 2 of the engines I referenced to had comp 292 magnum cams. Hope this helps clear things up a bit. Sometimes I get ahead of myself and don't fully explain my suggestions. Lol

[waypastcrazy]

Lol let me correct my blackberry.those were without machining the valve guide bosses.

[SlowJoe]

lmao

[95cobra]

Thanks for all your info. I am going to pull a valve cover this weekend and see whats there. How can I tell if the dizzy I have needs upgrading and how about the timing set.

[waypastcrazy]

Not knowing the exact specs of your engines pistons dish or flat top. It be hard to give an exact answer.but let us assume it is dish. With that said with a guesstimation on your compression.I am assuming you have the duraspark dizzy. With vac advance. If it has not been locked out. Which if it has will not make good for street cruising. Lol. With your compr. Base should be 14 at idle then with rpms up around 2500 centrifugal should be 18 to 20 degrees at with vac advance unplugged from dizzy and line plugged off. Then with vac hooked back up. And rpms raised to around 2500 to 3000 rpm timing should be around 34 or so. If it is way more the dizzy is not curved correctly.or if you have to go higher on rpm to get full advance. Really need to know your exact combo. On the timing chain. Unless you have a timing degree wheel and kit. And exact cam specs. Only way to know if it has a straight up non retarded timing set. Is to disassemble the front of engine and look at it. Unless you know someone that knows all the history of the engine. Lol I will think on it and see if forgot something.

[waypastcrazy]

Ok let me get this correct. At idle timing should be around 14. With vac unhooked and line plugged. Then bring rpm up to around 2500 and the centridugal should be 18 to 20. Then with vac hooked back up and rpms up until timing stops advancing. Total should be around 34 36. If not your dizzy is not curved correctly. If you have to bring rpms a lot higher to get full advance. The timing curve is to wide. Basically the recurve is to bring full advance in at an earlier rpm I like mine all in around 2500.hope this helps. Lol.

[95cobra]

Thanks again. I am going to do some rewiring this weekend because rats ate a few wires. I know carb needs building got kit ordered. I am going to try get it running back good from setting for 2 years. I want to take it to track and see how it runs and then buy parts you have told me about. I found cam kit at summit with cam lifters springs timing chain for 450. I am thinking about another set of heads so i. An have them worked while i play. If you know where at set is at good price let me know. Whatcha think?

[95cobra]

Originally Posted by waypastcrazy

Ok let me get this correct. At idle timing should be around 14. With vac unhooked and line plugged. Then bring rpm up to around 2500 and the centridugal should be 18 to 20. Then with vac hooked back up and rpms up until timing stops advancing. Total should be around 34 36. If not your dizzy is not curved correctly. If you have to bring rpms a lot higher to get full advance. The timing curve is to wide. Basically the recurve is to bring full advance in at an earlier rpm I like mine all in around 2500.hope this helps. Lol.

Basically just trying to get full advance at a lower rpm. Makes since.