09-11-2008, 08:28 PM | #11 |
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I will leave this one for windsor guys but one word of advice. With lots of cylinder pressure torque and retorque. Good luck with your combo. Clyde
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09-11-2008, 10:31 PM | #12 | |
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Quote:
fel pro 9333pt 2 1011-2 or mls if you go the mls route pass on cometic have heard the big dog class racers having issues. studded??? or good bolts? hope your not going o ring |
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09-11-2008, 10:40 PM | #13 |
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Arp bolts, I am not going on ring. Thanks
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09-11-2008, 10:45 PM | #14 |
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thanks this is the same combo I have been running for a couple years. I have done fine with it 10.50 @ 13? Mph witch ain't bad shifting gears
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09-12-2008, 07:33 AM | #15 |
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Good advice abound. Ask Edgar too; he has been spraying 200+ for years now, with relative success.
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09-16-2008, 05:17 AM | #16 |
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Either go with the Felpro or Cometic gasket. I have been using Cometic gasket almost 4 years now and rocks. If you go with the Cometic let me know and I'll tell you what you need to do to get them prep so no leaks will ocurred, even though they should not leak, but I always do a little prep on them:
Edgar Another thing, if you are going to use ARP studs, they are 1/2 for the windsor. Torque the heads at 110 ft lbs all of them. Your motor is FI or carburated, what Nitrous system you are using. Last edited by Wickd GT; 09-16-2008 at 05:24 AM. |
09-16-2008, 06:44 AM | #17 | |
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Quote:
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http://alabamaopencarry.com/forum/index.php One of StreetStangs class clowns! Status:slow as hell! NORTH EAST ALABAMA STANGS |
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09-16-2008, 08:44 PM | #18 | |
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Quote:
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09-17-2008, 05:59 AM | #19 |
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This what you need to do, first get a can of Copper Coat Gasket Compound, not the spray can. Then put the Cometic gasket on top of the block, and check the rivets at the end if they interfere with the head if the do, take the front and rear rivets off. In the instructions it will tell you the same thing, it depend on the brand of Head. If you do not need to take the rivets off, take the Copper Coat compound and start laying a coat in between the layers of the cometic gasket at the top inside both sides, everywhere there is a water hole, do not put any on the outside of the gasket meaning the front and back of the gasket, next prep the block, lay a layer from front to rear at the top of the lifter galley of the block and the corners, put in every water hole and the return hole of the block, once this is done lay the gasket the correct way just look at your old head gaskets (Front). Now lay the gasket on the block, put in all the heads studs, if the bottom ones are in the water jacket, make sure they have liquid Teflon etc.. Now get the head, lay a coat across the top of the head from front to rear, were it meets the lifter galley at the block, put in every water hole and oil return. Once this is done put the head on and torque to 110 lbs ft all of them. Ok now you are going to ask, why the copper gasket coat? This gaskets sometimes will sip at the oil return and some of the water jacks. This will get this gasket so sticky that when you try to get the head off is a bitch, but no leaks and you can reuse them again. If you need to reuse them, just clean any copper gasket on top of the gasket with carb cleaner on a rag not straight to the gasket and do the same procedures above listed. The key here is the rivets on the gasket, if they interfere or not any questions call me at my cell. 334-464-7928
Edgar |
09-17-2008, 09:32 AM | #20 |
I got a good sugar moma
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thanks Edgar
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