solid roller cams??????? - Page 2

Wickd GT · 12-02-2006, 02:56 PM

Since you are going to spray 250-300, I sugest a nitrous cam. But before anything. Is it a manual tranny or automatic? You need to tell me what is duration at .050" Then I can recomend a cam. But if you are going to spray more than N/A, this is what I recomend. Get a solid from Cam motion, give them the specs and how much juice you are going to spray. Specify that you want a 112 lobe separation, this give you both worlds, N/A and Nitrous. You motor should be running in the 10s already with the specs you gave us if you have not run it yet. Next thing is how high you want to spin the motor, but with that solid roller you should be spinning at around 7,000rpms. A tight lash will be the best because you will be able to drive it on the street, but you need to get a stud girle, because that valve train vibrates a lot and that is when the studs start flexing and let go.

Edgar

1Quik85GT · 12-02-2006, 09:04 PM

solid roller here!!! I drive mine on the street, and check the valve lash whenever i got to the track, and sometimes its moved sometimes it hasnt, according to how much driving I have done. I turn mine not higher than 7k. 10.90s N/A. For the last couple of months it hasnt been turned over 1,000 rpms..lol. I guess i better start it. I would highly recommend a solid over a hyd. cam. You will make more HP with it........i gurantee it

97cobrasvt · 12-02-2006, 11:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wickd GT

Since you are going to spray 250-300, I sugest a nitrous cam. But before anything. Is it a manual tranny or automatic? You need to tell me what is duration at .050" Then I can recomend a cam. But if you are going to spray more than N/A, this is what I recomend. Get a solid from Cam motion, give them the specs and how much juice you are going to spray. Specify that you want a 112 lobe separation, this give you both worlds, N/A and Nitrous. You motor should be running in the 10s already with the specs you gave us if you have not run it yet. Next thing is how high you want to spin the motor, but with that solid roller you should be spinning at around 7,000rpms. A tight lash will be the best because you will be able to drive it on the street, but you need to get a stud girle, because that valve train vibrates a lot and that is when the studs start flexing and let go.

Edgar

The car is a manual trans TKO 500. I am not at home to look at the cam card but when I get home sunday I will post it up.I believe the lobe seperation is 110 on the cam mentioned. What is a good stud girtle to use? Thanks for ya's help Steven

Wickd GT · 12-03-2006, 06:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 97cobrasvt

The car is a manual trans TKO 500. I am not at home to look at the cam card but when I get home sunday I will post it up.I believe the lobe seperation is 110 on the cam mentioned. What is a good stud girtle to use? Thanks for ya's help Steven

Comp Cams sell a good stud girdle.

Edgar

Blown 5.0 · 12-03-2006, 06:40 AM

I plan on spraying around 250 to 300 if the block does not split

[/QUOTE]

I personally dont like a solid cam, There are motors in excess of 1000 hp running hyd cams, without the valve train wear of solid. BUT to each his own. My primary intrest in this thread is the quote above (if the block does not split) The block will not split if detionation is kept under control, I have watched people for years blame weak blocks, to much spray, ect, on splitting blocks, burning pistons,destroying motors in general. When all the time they did not have a clue where inital timing was at much less what total timing was. I have seen stock block motors making in excess of 800 hp with not even a(main) stud girdle. But timing and afr was kept under tight control. The programmable digital 7 from msd is a very very good peice to make a car go fast and the motor to live. Didnt mean to rant early this morning, but its my pet peeve to hear some one talk about a baby Henry being weak

97cobrasvt · 12-03-2006, 07:44 AM

well everyone knows (Well I hope) that a car that is set up right and has the correct tune will last for a while but the stock blocks can only last for so long with that amount of power going through them its been proven time and time again thank you

97cobrasvt · 12-03-2006, 08:20 PM

Duration at .050" Intake 248 degree Exhaust 252 degree

Lobe lift at .050 Intake .348 Exhaust .341

This might be a dump ??? but why did you need to know the lift at .050 to find what cam I need to run I'm sorry for my ignorence but would like to know

coupe · 12-03-2006, 09:35 PM

He doesn't need to know the .050...Edgar's just being nosey.

But I will contest his statement about the 112º LSA. The cam pros at CamMotion, FTI, or Camshaft Innovations will set the whole thing up for you. It might be on a 108º LSA and it might be on a 115º LSA. They have the knowhow to get the timing events right.

That cam you have sounds fairly mild for a solid roller. If you're not wanting the adjustment, do the switch to hydraulic roller. Set it and forget it. You can still make 500 or so N/A with that big motor on a hydraulic...maybe more.

Wickd GT · 12-04-2006, 05:06 AM

I wanted to know what was the lift at .050" to see how high are the lobes and how fast are the ramps, and yes what Coupe said it is pretty mild cam you have there, what you need to know what is the spring pressure. My cam at .050" is .246/256 a bit more aggresive on the exhaust. If you planning going Hyd, then do it right from the get go. First is to get the Hydr link bar roller lifters from Crane, second, get a custom cam from Ed Curtis, Cammotion or other, except Cammotion. Then a set of spring that goes with that Hydr cam springs, so is going to cost you pretty good money to make the change.

Edgar

1sicklx · 12-04-2006, 01:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wickd GT

Cammotion or other, except Cammotion.

I'm not sure that came out right ??

12-03-2006, 06:40 AM	#15
Blown 5.0 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Looking for more ways to add BOOST Posts: 167	I plan on spraying around 250 to 300 if the block does not split[/QUOTE] I personally dont like a solid cam, There are motors in excess of 1000 hp running hyd cams, without the valve train wear of solid. BUT to each his own. My primary intrest in this thread is the quote above (if the block does not split) The block will not split if detionation is kept under control, I have watched people for years blame weak blocks, to much spray, ect, on splitting blocks, burning pistons,destroying motors in general. When all the time they did not have a clue where inital timing was at much less what total timing was. I have seen stock block motors making in excess of 800 hp with not even a(main) stud girdle. But timing and afr was kept under tight control. The programmable digital 7 from msd is a very very good peice to make a car go fast and the motor to live. Didnt mean to rant early this morning, but its my pet peeve to hear some one talk about a baby Henry being weak __________________ Hauling A** on Pump Gas !!!!! Last edited by Blown 5.0; 12-03-2006 at 10:03 AM.

12-03-2006, 07:44 AM	#16
97cobrasvt I got a good sugar moma Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: ON THE ROAD Posts: 1,196	well everyone knows (Well I hope) that a car that is set up right and has the correct tune will last for a while but the stock blocks can only last for so long with that amount of power going through them its been proven time and time again thank you __________________ Bottled 89 Coupe

12-03-2006, 08:20 PM	#17
97cobrasvt I got a good sugar moma Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: ON THE ROAD Posts: 1,196	Duration at .050" Intake 248 degree Exhaust 252 degree Lobe lift at .050 Intake .348 Exhaust .341 This might be a dump ??? but why did you need to know the lift at .050 to find what cam I need to run I'm sorry for my ignorence but would like to know __________________ Bottled 89 Coupe Last edited by 97cobrasvt; 12-03-2006 at 08:23 PM.

12-03-2006, 09:35 PM	#18
coupe Super Moderator Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 6,313	He doesn't need to know the .050...Edgar's just being nosey. But I will contest his statement about the 112º LSA. The cam pros at CamMotion, FTI, or Camshaft Innovations will set the whole thing up for you. It might be on a 108º LSA and it might be on a 115º LSA. They have the knowhow to get the timing events right. That cam you have sounds fairly mild for a solid roller. If you're not wanting the adjustment, do the switch to hydraulic roller. Set it and forget it. You can still make 500 or so N/A with that big motor on a hydraulic...maybe more. __________________ " If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough. " - Albert Einstein

12-02-2006, 02:56 PM	#11
Wickd GT Friends Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,645	Since you are going to spray 250-300, I sugest a nitrous cam. But before anything. Is it a manual tranny or automatic? You need to tell me what is duration at .050" Then I can recomend a cam. But if you are going to spray more than N/A, this is what I recomend. Get a solid from Cam motion, give them the specs and how much juice you are going to spray. Specify that you want a 112 lobe separation, this give you both worlds, N/A and Nitrous. You motor should be running in the 10s already with the specs you gave us if you have not run it yet. Next thing is how high you want to spin the motor, but with that solid roller you should be spinning at around 7,000rpms. A tight lash will be the best because you will be able to drive it on the street, but you need to get a stud girle, because that valve train vibrates a lot and that is when the studs start flexing and let go. Edgar

12-02-2006, 09:04 PM	#12
1Quik85GT Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 895	solid roller here!!! I drive mine on the street, and check the valve lash whenever i got to the track, and sometimes its moved sometimes it hasnt, according to how much driving I have done. I turn mine not higher than 7k. 10.90s N/A. For the last couple of months it hasnt been turned over 1,000 rpms..lol. I guess i better start it. I would highly recommend a solid over a hyd. cam. You will make more HP with it........i gurantee it

12-04-2006, 05:06 AM	#19
Wickd GT Friends Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,645	I wanted to know what was the lift at .050" to see how high are the lobes and how fast are the ramps, and yes what Coupe said it is pretty mild cam you have there, what you need to know what is the spring pressure. My cam at .050" is .246/256 a bit more aggresive on the exhaust. If you planning going Hyd, then do it right from the get go. First is to get the Hydr link bar roller lifters from Crane, second, get a custom cam from Ed Curtis, Cammotion or other, except Cammotion. Then a set of spring that goes with that Hydr cam springs, so is going to cost you pretty good money to make the change. Edgar