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Old 04-25-2009, 01:13 PM   #21
SlowJoe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QWKSNKE View Post
Ok, so that eliminates a rebuild as far as new pistons and rods. As long as the cylinder walls are still good, I would throw new rings, bearings, oil pump, timing chain, gaskets in your current setup and call it a day. That will cost around $500
i would add rod bolts to that!
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Old 04-25-2009, 01:52 PM   #22
93cobra1928
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I have ARP's in mine, well worth the money
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Old 04-25-2009, 03:46 PM   #23
BAD INT
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Find someone you trust on machining
cut .040 off the heads and clean up bowl area and runners do not use rubber umbrella seals!!!!!!!!!!
rod bolts arp
ALL FEL-PRO gaskets pan 1 piece,timing cover,heads,rear main,intake&ex
oil pump melling standard vol/press but can be one of their blueprinted
and get a hd pump drive shaft
Rings childs&alberts or childs/ackerly ?sp
Bearings clevite/michigan are downing the entire engine do cam bearings also

dont know how long you could hold off or sell other stuff but picking up a different set of heads would be best.I have a couple listed in the for sale section
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Old 04-25-2009, 08:57 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EHardy1971 View Post
Horsepower is a helluva drug,you always want more. But all BS aside Taylor,you'd really be better off just fixing the oil pump and getting her back on the road. Once you start tearing the engine apart, without already having the funds set aside to do a buildup,you're looking at a long road ahead. Mine sat for 3 years with the engine and tranny yanked out while I built up my 306 piece by piece. As soon as you get some money to do some work on it,something ALWAYS comes up and kicks you in the ass! Just some food for thought,and I know I'm not the only one here that's been down that road.

Having been in this situation a few times in the past building a different automaker's cars, I can say Hardy's right on the button w/this post.

Me personally when I yank my motor I'll be putting it back together a little hotter than stock, with a good HCI combo, the supporting mods and converted to maf with (hopefully) an a9l or a9m computer. I figure I should see somewhere in the 300+rwhp, and about 350rwtq. A hundred shot or possibly even a 150 shot (for the track) is all my car should need. This should cost me around 3 grand with some judicious shopping and doing the installs myself. I am however probably going to have the short block built by a professional. So make it 4 grand total invested in the engine, with about a grand or so in the aod. I'll be sending ole' Hardy a pm about the possibility of maybe picking up one of his "Budget Aluminum Driveshafts" if I can talk him into it. Re-gearing the rear and upgrading to 5 lug + rear disks. It's a mouth full to be sure, and I've sourced a lot of parts already. But I only want to be doing this one time on this car, so I'll be waiting untill I've found the best possible pricing on the parts (new or used) I want, and once I have it all gathered up (I'm a parts hoarder) its take the car down time. All in all I figure 6 grand or so in the car and then its body and interior time. I learned along time ago to be realistic when figuring a parts budget and then add 15% for unplanned extras that pop-up.
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Old 04-25-2009, 11:27 PM   #25
tayzoid1
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im gonna see what i can do about my bike so i can do a lil more to the motor i can seem to justify pullin everyting out to make everything back to stock alot of work for very lil or no gains i think im gonna go for a cam and head combo and then try for an intake because time is really not an issue for the car
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