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Old 05-09-2007, 08:14 AM   #21
88 Sleeper Coupe
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The fuel pump was fine. Whether it was you or someone else it took us a while to realize the fuel pump relay was laying under the console lol.. the ground was shotty and the power wire had slipped off 99% of the way.. once we touched the relay the power and ground had slipped off... so we spent a few hours that night replacing a fuel pump to have it still not working... WTF?!?!? then found what was going on. Car seems nice a sturdy.. new rear-end made a big different.. can't wait to run it now.. shooting for 8.7's on motor maybe 8.6's once I get the new hood and take out some more weight.
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Old 05-09-2007, 08:17 AM   #22
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The tail light harness seems to work fine but I definately have wires that I need to extend. When I rip out the motor this winter I plan to do a lot to clean it up.. replace wiring.. extend wiring.. paint the engine bay black to match the satin paint that the car should already have... (Fingers crossed it'll have the new front-end and hood and wheels within a month) and repaint the block and headers and stuff. Really hoping to just take my time over the summer and fall to buy my heads and intake pieces. Probably also gonna put a flashy cheap intake on it with a good filter to clean up the engine bay. I'm not trying to make the car for show... e.g. im putting plastic race seats in it and its fully gutted lol.. But I do want to be able to pop the hood or open the door and people be like... "damn.. nice car.. clean work.. setup looks good" if that makes any sense?
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Old 05-09-2007, 09:42 AM   #23
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It makes perfect sense. Let me know if I can be of assistance.

Did you find a 4-eye front-end yet? I have a RED 86 lx nose complete with headlights and everything (non-foglight nose) I might be able to be talked out of. I got an out-of-state guy wanting to buy it...but I'm looking for an 87+ front clip and might be talked into a trade pretty easily. If you're interested, you have second dibs on it.
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Old 05-09-2007, 09:46 AM   #24
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My front end is fine but the drive side fog light/tow hook hole has been cut/ripped. Its all there but it would have to be re-fiberglassed. Where are you located? Guys at mustang performance in Kodak TN priced me $150 for the bumper with headlights in it and $300 for a set of gt40p explorer heads.
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Old 05-09-2007, 10:34 AM   #25
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Go for it. not bad.
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Old 05-14-2007, 07:31 PM   #26
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Okay I ran the car at 411 dragstrip in east TN its an 1/8th mile track its all we have around here besides bristol..with the new rear-end setup and control arms with slicks she went 8.56 with a 1.78 60ft. That was just motor I haven't hooked up nitrous yet. I'm thinking i'll wait instead of hooking it up until I do my tear-down this winter and put the gt40p heads and new intake and stuff on.
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Old 05-14-2007, 07:39 PM   #27
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Glad to see it is coming along for you man
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Old 05-15-2007, 11:16 AM   #28
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Yup thanks man she's proven to be a good chassis and motor. She smokes a little bit on a deep throttle or launch but not when cruising.. no telling what it could be but I think third to last plug on the left side of the motor (if you're standing infront of it) shows some oil/carbon when I took them out to inspect them so it could be a valve spring or seal going bad. She's still making good power. I was more than impressed with the 8.56 run and the 1.78 60ft considering it has that srod tranny
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Old 06-19-2007, 06:50 AM   #29
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Can someone please tell me how to remove these bastards without taking out the entire motor? I tried to remove them once before and ended up wasting like 2 hours.. the passenger side didn't wanna drop from the bottom and the steering arm stops the driver side.. someone with experience please help me on how to take these out? Thanks guys!!

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Old 06-19-2007, 07:30 AM   #30
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Talking about the headers? Put it up on jack stands, tall ones. Remove the motor mount bolts put a jack under the front sump on the oil pan and raise the motor about 2 inches the passenger side should come out the top and driver down the bottom.
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