06-19-2007, 09:55 AM | #31 |
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Yeah thanks I meant the headers... I can't beleive you have to raise the motor up 2" to remove some damn headers.. I'll tell ya one thing.. once I start working on this new project using the stock headers im not stopping until its finished because im not putting those bastards back in if it looks like its gonna take half a day just to get them out.
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06-19-2007, 02:41 PM | #32 |
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If I am not mistaken, the way those headers are made you may have to remove the rag joint as well. Doesnt it go through two of the drivers side tubes? Honestly, if you have to drop the rag joint and jack the engine up I would just find a way to cut them out since you arent planning on reusing them.
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06-19-2007, 03:10 PM | #33 |
3v's are slow
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long tube headers suck as far as removal and installation goes
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06-19-2007, 04:24 PM | #34 |
Bet I red light B4U
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Ya'll just have to learn the tricks. Please don't cut them out!!!!!!!!!
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06-19-2007, 09:03 PM | #35 |
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Ohh, I could get them out without cutting them but with the condition they are in, the fact that the leak, and the fact that he doesnt plan to ever use them again, it isnt reall worth having to drop the rag joint and then still having to sandwhich them out. Just my opinion though. There isnt an option of not dropping the rag joint with those headers if you dont want to cut them. It runs straight in between two of the tubes between where they bolt the heads and the ball flange on the end. Now dropping the rag joint out isnt all that bad, but I still bet I could get them out quicker with a cutter.
Last edited by joker; 06-19-2007 at 09:05 PM. |
06-20-2007, 07:42 AM | #36 |
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Whats the rag joint? You mean the steering shaft joint? If so I think you're right about disconnecting it.
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06-20-2007, 11:24 AM | #37 | |
I got a good sugar moma
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Quote:
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06-20-2007, 12:54 PM | #38 |
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