Brake Cooling - On the verge of Fabrication

Sendero · 01-25-2005, 07:42 PM

I have to say I am pretty displeased with the current brake cooling options out there. Sure there are many "homebrewed" setups out there that will blow ducted air onto the rotor, but I want something a little more balanced. From what I've learned you run the risk of unevenly cooling the rotor if you just simply blow air "at" the rotor, warpage will ensue.

Theory:
The word from road racers / engineers is that a rotor needs to be cooled evenly on both the inside and outside face. In order to do this they recommend introducing air close to the rotors center (just like the homebrews), but forcing the air to escape outward through the vanes. This will ensure both sides of the rotor cool equally and create airflow to the pads / calipers.

Design: (Taken from bits and pieces I have seen around the net)
Some type of backing plate that is cut just a fraction under the ID of the rotors interior face in order to reduce the amount of air escape area. Create some sort of barrier on the outboard side of the backing plate to help create a pressure area, basically a raised piece between the backing plate and the hub face. Again, its there to reduce the air escape area. (My thoughs are with the car moving at speed and forcing air down the brake ducts, that the air will become slightly pressurized inside the cooling device and be forced outward through the vanes)

Now, the SN95 brake setup with the ABS tone ring creates a fundemental problem, how to introduce the air into the cooling device. I have seen some use a 2" Mandel bent tubing that is "notched" to clear the LCA/Spindle nut at full lock (full jounce). But I am wondering if I could just attach the brake ductwork directly to the cooling device and zip-tie it out of the way. Then place some type of armour to keep the LCA/Spindle nut form tearing it up. But I still have to deal with the ABS tone ring because I want a minimum of a 2" inlet to maximize the airflow.

Somebody help me fill in the gaps, please?

Materials:

Well, you definately don't want to increase weight at the wheels. So I though about using some thick Aluminum plate. Looking at prices, I'd better be sure about my design or it would be an expensive prototye. Plus it would have to be TIG welded, while I can TIG its not very pretty.

I also considered fiberglass, but I don't know if it would withstand the oven temperatures. What about Carbon Fiber? Do you know anyone that could form it for me?

What do you guys think?

AngelEyes · 01-25-2005, 07:45 PM

Damn that is a lot of typing.

Craig K. · 01-25-2005, 08:17 PM

Well I was just taking a digi pic of my set up, then my batteries went dead, so perhaps tomorrow night I'll post pics.

Don't laugh at my set up, it works!
I use the air intake tube from a S10 V-6 I got two of these from a bone yard for a couple dollars. I then route 3 inch brake ducting to this and duct tape/zip tie them together. Then I route the front of the tube to a 3" napda duct which is mounted in the middle of my front bumbper where the front turn signal use to be.
The spindle section I have notch so the front of the duct goes around it, and the duct is just zip ties on (good zip ties are a must)

This set up has survived close to 2000 racing miles, plus 1000 miles on the street.

Anrother possible option is to cut a 2" hole into your dust shield (backing plate) and weld in a piece of 2" pipe, then route tubing from that up front. I have several friends that ran this set type of set up and never had problems.

A third option is to get a set of the 2kR ducts.

If you do make your own, make it out of card board first, it is a lot easier to work with for a first proto-type.

QWKSNKE · 01-25-2005, 08:19 PM

You do realize this is something that would only be necessary in repeated high speed braking. Not worth the trouble on a street car that already has CD/SL rotors

Sendero · 01-25-2005, 08:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Craig K.

A third option is to get a set of the 2kR ducts.

Do you know where I could price some? I've tried looking for them but keep coming up empty. I wonder if Ford has them in the parts bin?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Craig K.

If you do make your own, make it out of card board first, it is a lot easier to work with for a first proto-type.

Good idear!

TheJeanyus · 01-25-2005, 08:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by QWKSNKE

You do realize this is something that would only be necessary in repeated high speed braking. Not worth the trouble on a street car that already has CD/SL rotors

That's what I was thinking - I would imagine the CD/SL Baerclaws do just fine on a street car without any additional cooling.

Sendero · 01-25-2005, 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by QWKSNKE

You do realize this is something that would only be necessary in repeated high speed braking. Not worth the trouble on a street car that already has CD/SL rotors

Ehh, I wrestled with this though too. But I have a design class coming up in the summer semester that I have to prototype something (that doesn't already have a patent). Im thinking of using this as my project.

Then, if the car ever comes to its full evolution and I get my wish, you guys will see me on ESPN. (Yeah right

)

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheJeanyus

That's what I was thinking - I would imagine the CD/SL Baerclaws do just fine on a street car without any additional cooling.

Do you not remember me telling you about how hot my brakes were on the "night-run"? I do need cooling ducts, my car is a pig. (Judging by the cracks in your rotors, they wouldn't hurt you either)

TheJeanyus · 01-25-2005, 08:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sendero

Ehh, I wrestled with this though too. But I have a design class coming up in the summer semester that I have to prototype something (that doesn't already have a patent). Im thinking of using this as my project.

Then, if the car ever comes to its full evolution and I get my wish, you guys will see me on ESPN. (Yeah right

)

Man why can't we have classes like that?

Craig K. · 01-25-2005, 08:24 PM

Try calling Ford SVT direct, or pehaps someone like Roush, Steeda or Saleen, they all have team cars, and I am sure have extra sets fabed up.

You could also check with the circle track guys, however their stuff will not be specific and will need fab work.

When I get some free time, I will also look around and see if I can find some for you.

As I recall the ones for the Y2KR's were carbon fiber, and were going for around $200 a set or so about 5 years ago when they were new.

tacbear · 01-25-2005, 08:25 PM

01-25-2005, 07:42 PM	#1
Sendero Im gonna show her my... Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Somewhere providing FREE tech support. Posts: 4,269	Brake Cooling - On the verge of Fabrication I have to say I am pretty displeased with the current brake cooling options out there. Sure there are many "homebrewed" setups out there that will blow ducted air onto the rotor, but I want something a little more balanced. From what I've learned you run the risk of unevenly cooling the rotor if you just simply blow air "at" the rotor, warpage will ensue. Theory: The word from road racers / engineers is that a rotor needs to be cooled evenly on both the inside and outside face. In order to do this they recommend introducing air close to the rotors center (just like the homebrews), but forcing the air to escape outward through the vanes. This will ensure both sides of the rotor cool equally and create airflow to the pads / calipers. Design: (Taken from bits and pieces I have seen around the net) Some type of backing plate that is cut just a fraction under the ID of the rotors interior face in order to reduce the amount of air escape area. Create some sort of barrier on the outboard side of the backing plate to help create a pressure area, basically a raised piece between the backing plate and the hub face. Again, its there to reduce the air escape area. (My thoughs are with the car moving at speed and forcing air down the brake ducts, that the air will become slightly pressurized inside the cooling device and be forced outward through the vanes) Now, the SN95 brake setup with the ABS tone ring creates a fundemental problem, how to introduce the air into the cooling device. I have seen some use a 2" Mandel bent tubing that is "notched" to clear the LCA/Spindle nut at full lock (full jounce). But I am wondering if I could just attach the brake ductwork directly to the cooling device and zip-tie it out of the way. Then place some type of armour to keep the LCA/Spindle nut form tearing it up. But I still have to deal with the ABS tone ring because I want a minimum of a 2" inlet to maximize the airflow. Somebody help me fill in the gaps, please? Materials: Well, you definately don't want to increase weight at the wheels. So I though about using some thick Aluminum plate. Looking at prices, I'd better be sure about my design or it would be an expensive prototye. Plus it would have to be TIG welded, while I can TIG its not very pretty. I also considered fiberglass, but I don't know if it would withstand the oven temperatures. What about Carbon Fiber? Do you know anyone that could form it for me? What do you guys think? __________________ I heard it on the internet, so it must be true. "I believe that a person's moral compass can be determined by how he references free men the right to defend themselves." T. Nugent "An armed society is a polite society. Manners are good when one may have to back up his acts with his life." R. Heinlein "Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience." -Unknown

01-25-2005, 07:45 PM	#2
AngelEyes H1M8NC. The real OG. Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Beach Bound!! Posts: 1,750	Re: Brake Cooling - On the verge of Fabrication Damn that is a lot of typing.

01-25-2005, 08:17 PM	#3
Craig K. Nothing new here Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Senoia, GA Posts: 2,990	Re: Brake Cooling - On the verge of Fabrication Well I was just taking a digi pic of my set up, then my batteries went dead, so perhaps tomorrow night I'll post pics. Don't laugh at my set up, it works! I use the air intake tube from a S10 V-6 I got two of these from a bone yard for a couple dollars. I then route 3 inch brake ducting to this and duct tape/zip tie them together. Then I route the front of the tube to a 3" napda duct which is mounted in the middle of my front bumbper where the front turn signal use to be. The spindle section I have notch so the front of the duct goes around it, and the duct is just zip ties on (good zip ties are a must) This set up has survived close to 2000 racing miles, plus 1000 miles on the street. Anrother possible option is to cut a 2" hole into your dust shield (backing plate) and weld in a piece of 2" pipe, then route tubing from that up front. I have several friends that ran this set type of set up and never had problems. A third option is to get a set of the 2kR ducts. If you do make your own, make it out of card board first, it is a lot easier to work with for a first proto-type. __________________ 1974 Triumph TR6 1985 Monte Carlo SS 1986 Mustang GT 2011 KIA Optima GTS

01-25-2005, 08:19 PM	#4
QWKSNKE 3v's are slow Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Here and There Posts: 17,152	Re: Brake Cooling - On the verge of Fabrication You do realize this is something that would only be necessary in repeated high speed braking. Not worth the trouble on a street car that already has CD/SL rotors __________________ 2009 Porsche Carrera S 2008 ///AMG C63.. Eurocharge Tune. RIP 2019 AMG GLC43..wife's 03 F250 SD.. Edge Evo, AFE Stage 1 CAI 08 GT. JBA axle back, FRPP springs, FRPP swaybars.. daughter's 01 Cobra vert... wife's I need a new toy

01-25-2005, 08:24 PM	#9
Craig K. Nothing new here Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Senoia, GA Posts: 2,990	Re: Brake Cooling - On the verge of Fabrication Try calling Ford SVT direct, or pehaps someone like Roush, Steeda or Saleen, they all have team cars, and I am sure have extra sets fabed up. You could also check with the circle track guys, however their stuff will not be specific and will need fab work. When I get some free time, I will also look around and see if I can find some for you. As I recall the ones for the Y2KR's were carbon fiber, and were going for around $200 a set or so about 5 years ago when they were new. __________________ 1974 Triumph TR6 1985 Monte Carlo SS 1986 Mustang GT 2011 KIA Optima GTS