trans to bellhousing bolt

Shorty · 07-08-2010, 05:30 AM

hopefully i am not the first to have a issue (maybe it was just a bad day) but the upper driver bolt conecting the trans to bellhouse is impossible. there has to be a trick, i have tried every combo i can think of but there is a bolt (star pattern, what is this?) in the way of getting a good bite. coming at it with a universal it just wont break free. any tricks for people that done it before, gotta be overlooking something. thanks

been down 9 months and time to get this thing back on the road

****added note: while doing this i have decided to replace any bushings that i came across and sure most will assume the energy suspension trans mount is much better. i did also swap the x-member bushings, i have not clue that it will ever benifit but they are significant better quality and longer.****

nxcoupe · 07-08-2010, 06:46 AM

Well, I use an impact, 1/2" extension and impact swival, and a shallow 6 point socket, then hit it with all she's got with the impact. If that won't work, then put a breaker bar on it and push the extension while pulling on that breaker. also, make sure the trans is hanging down as far as it will go, gives you a lot of room, and the exhaust is off and out of the way. hope this helps.

Shorty · 07-08-2010, 07:19 AM

exhaust is off, x-member out, using 1/2 inch impact and still wont come. cant get even remotely a straight shot at it and once you put that universal at a almost 90 degree angle all the torque is gone. that bolt just aint allowing nothing to fit just right, tried removing it but didnt have right size hex. if it aint nothing crucial i will grind that thing flat off. lol

coupe · 07-08-2010, 09:25 AM

What about a box-end wrench with a "cheater" wrench on the other end? I've done them before and they're stubborn, but not impossible. I don't know what the other bolt is, but I wouldn't recommend grinding it down.

Shorty · 07-08-2010, 10:18 AM

tried the box end and there isnt enough room for movement+ cheater bar. it is setting right inside a rib and that bolt (plug maybe) is blocking straight forward access. thus now the bolt is just getting more and more rounded off. i am assuming that this one was just beyond normal seized up point which is not allowing it to break free like the others. i know i got issues now cause it just keeps rounding more but with that "star" bolt blocking cant get a good bite. my thinking was if i ground it off then it could be gotten out once the trans was out. also since nobody knows what it is i almost feel it would never be of need to me

QWKSNKE · 07-08-2010, 10:23 AM

if you are at a 90 degree angle then you don't have enough extensions. You need enough to get close the back of the transmission. 2' minimum

Shorty · 07-08-2010, 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by QWKSNKE

if you are at a 90 degree angle then you don't have enough extensions. You need enough to get close the back of the transmission. 2' minimum

u cant get any socket on the trans bolt with a straight shot due to the large round hex bolt blocking it. it is only a few inches and doesnt allow any flex. tried letting the trans down, lifting up. extensions, 90's with universal. its so sieze that anything other than solid fit is slipping and rounding it badly. perhaps i am missing something but i believe that hex bolt is getting ground off when i get back to the house. it cant be much or somebody would know what it is, google didnt even know

coupe · 07-08-2010, 11:06 AM

If it has loc-tite on it, you can give it a few minutes with a propane torch (the blue gas, not the yellow can MAPP gas). It will break up red loc-tite and allow it to come free. Also, put a punch on the head of the bolt right dead center and smack the shit out of it with a hammer... It will also help loosen the threads. If this doesn't loosen it up, I recommend 1)find out what that other bolt is for and 2)remove it correctly with the right socket.

Shorty · 07-08-2010, 11:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by QWKSNKE

if you are at a 90 degree angle then you don't have enough extensions. You need enough to get close the back of the transmission. 2' minimum

u cant get any socket on the trans bolt with a straight shot due to the large round hex bolt blocking it. it is only a few inches and doesnt allow any flex. tried letting the trans down, lifting up. extensions, 90's with universal. its so sieze that anything other than solid fit is slipping and rounding it badly. perhaps i am missing something but i believe that hex bolt is getting ground off when i get back to the house. it cant be much or somebody would know what it is, google didnt even know

Shorty · 07-08-2010, 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coupe

If it has loc-tite on it, you can give it a few minutes with a propane torch (the blue gas, not the yellow can MAPP gas). It will break up red loc-tite and allow it to come free. Also, put a punch on the head of the bolt right dead center and smack the shit out of it with a hammer... It will also help loosen the threads. If this doesn't loosen it up, I recommend 1)find out what that other bolt is for and 2)remove it correctly with the right socket.

havent tried heating yet, i can find no evidence of any thread locker, all this still from the factory still. unfortunately the 15mm bolt is now like a 14.5mm round head. lol. i am not mechanically ignorant, this thing is just unreal

07-08-2010, 05:30 AM	#1
Shorty Pr0j3ct P1mp T1t3, y0! Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Somewhere wondering why Crimson stole my avatar Posts: 2,022	trans to bellhousing bolt hopefully i am not the first to have a issue (maybe it was just a bad day) but the upper driver bolt conecting the trans to bellhouse is impossible. there has to be a trick, i have tried every combo i can think of but there is a bolt (star pattern, what is this?) in the way of getting a good bite. coming at it with a universal it just wont break free. any tricks for people that done it before, gotta be overlooking something. thanks been down 9 months and time to get this thing back on the road **added note: while doing this i have decided to replace any bushings that i came across and sure most will assume the energy suspension trans mount is much better. i did also swap the x-member bushings, i have not clue that it will ever benifit but they are significant better quality and longer.** __________________ 93 GT----225rwhp/287rwtq--------1/4 mile= (but getting better)

07-08-2010, 06:46 AM	#2
nxcoupe Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Somewhere, Afghanistan Posts: 122	Well, I use an impact, 1/2" extension and impact swival, and a shallow 6 point socket, then hit it with all she's got with the impact. If that won't work, then put a breaker bar on it and push the extension while pulling on that breaker. also, make sure the trans is hanging down as far as it will go, gives you a lot of room, and the exhaust is off and out of the way. hope this helps. __________________ Michael 92 coupe R/S 8

07-08-2010, 07:19 AM	#3
Shorty Pr0j3ct P1mp T1t3, y0! Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Somewhere wondering why Crimson stole my avatar Posts: 2,022	exhaust is off, x-member out, using 1/2 inch impact and still wont come. cant get even remotely a straight shot at it and once you put that universal at a almost 90 degree angle all the torque is gone. that bolt just aint allowing nothing to fit just right, tried removing it but didnt have right size hex. if it aint nothing crucial i will grind that thing flat off. lol __________________ 93 GT----225rwhp/287rwtq--------1/4 mile= (but getting better)

07-08-2010, 10:18 AM	#5
Shorty Pr0j3ct P1mp T1t3, y0! Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Somewhere wondering why Crimson stole my avatar Posts: 2,022	tried the box end and there isnt enough room for movement+ cheater bar. it is setting right inside a rib and that bolt (plug maybe) is blocking straight forward access. thus now the bolt is just getting more and more rounded off. i am assuming that this one was just beyond normal seized up point which is not allowing it to break free like the others. i know i got issues now cause it just keeps rounding more but with that "star" bolt blocking cant get a good bite. my thinking was if i ground it off then it could be gotten out once the trans was out. also since nobody knows what it is i almost feel it would never be of need to me __________________ 93 GT----225rwhp/287rwtq--------1/4 mile= (but getting better)

07-08-2010, 10:23 AM	#6
QWKSNKE 3v's are slow Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Here and There Posts: 17,152	if you are at a 90 degree angle then you don't have enough extensions. You need enough to get close the back of the transmission. 2' minimum __________________ 2009 Porsche Carrera S 2008 ///AMG C63.. Eurocharge Tune. RIP 2019 AMG GLC43..wife's 03 F250 SD.. Edge Evo, AFE Stage 1 CAI 08 GT. JBA axle back, FRPP springs, FRPP swaybars.. daughter's 01 Cobra vert... wife's I need a new toy

07-08-2010, 09:25 AM	#4
coupe Super Moderator Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 6,313	What about a box-end wrench with a "cheater" wrench on the other end? I've done them before and they're stubborn, but not impossible. I don't know what the other bolt is, but I wouldn't recommend grinding it down.

07-08-2010, 11:06 AM	#8
coupe Super Moderator Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 6,313	If it has loc-tite on it, you can give it a few minutes with a propane torch (the blue gas, not the yellow can MAPP gas). It will break up red loc-tite and allow it to come free. Also, put a punch on the head of the bolt right dead center and smack the shit out of it with a hammer... It will also help loosen the threads. If this doesn't loosen it up, I recommend 1)find out what that other bolt is for and 2)remove it correctly with the right socket.