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Old 11-21-2006, 12:01 PM   #1
97cobrasvt
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solid roller cams???????

I was just wondering what ya think is better a solid roller or a hyd roller the coupe I have just got has a solid roller in her and I am use to using a hyd roller its just aggervating having to adjust the valves all the time I need to buy some guide plates for it . Whats ya's take on it. Thanks Steven
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Old 11-30-2006, 07:57 AM   #2
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Nobody answered...sorry.

Here's my take on it: You don't need a solid roller unless it's a max-effort race car that you take above 7000 RPM. In that situation, you would want accuracy and performance that a hydraulic lifter just cannot react to. A solid profile needs tremendous spring pressures and like you said, correct adjustment with feeler-gauges. Being loose or tight by a couple thousandths can limit several hundred RPM worth of the powerband.

If you run it on the street...hydraulic rollers are fine. They're forgiving, easy to set up, and you can make 1000 hp with them in the right applications.

Since you already have a solid setup, you might be able to get with a cam professional (FTI, Bullet Cams, CamMotion, Camshaft Innovations, etc...) to build you a low-lash cam that uses all your existing stuff and doesn't require much adjustment. It is possible, but may not be cheap.
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Old 11-30-2006, 10:34 AM   #3
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thanks man
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Old 11-30-2006, 04:46 PM   #4
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I went from a hydr roller to a solid roller. It is a tight lash cam, .010" hot and what I do is set them up a bit tight, meaning, make the filler gauge drag fbetween the valve and the tip of the roller rocker, put a stud girdle on it recheck everything and drive it on the street. Probably need to recheck about every 3 weeks depending on the usage of the motor. Intead of changing lifters pushrods and cam, get another solid roller with a tight lash for street drive and probably don't need as much of spring pressure. Get one from Cammotion, custom specify low lash.


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Old 11-30-2006, 07:16 PM   #5
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Edgar brought up a good point. Does your car have a roker arm girdle? If not, I think it would benefit you
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Old 12-01-2006, 04:17 PM   #6
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The guy I bought the car from said it needed a girdle to drive it on the street so I would say it does not . I have not had the valve cover off yet to know exactlly. Edgar I plan on running NOS on the car so if I went with a new cam would you go primarly with a nitrous cam or with a motor cam and what kind. Thanks ya for ya's help
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Old 12-01-2006, 06:17 PM   #7
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I reallllllly like the AFM cams so far. I ran one on my blower setup and new grind for the motor setup I have now. According to them the cam I have now is also good for up to a 300 shot
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Old 12-02-2006, 06:33 AM   #8
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so, would ya'll go with a nitrous cam or a naturally aspirated cam? I do plan on running alot of nitrous through the car so I didn't know if I should go with a nitrous cam to maximize the performance but I dont know alot about nitrous cams to pick one out so I need ya's help!!!!!
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Old 12-02-2006, 01:24 PM   #9
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Okay, what is the engine.? How many cubes? What block? Heads? Intake? Induction choices? What do you plan to do with this car? Just the track? Are you going to stay solid roller? Then we can come up with some ideas.
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Old 12-02-2006, 02:28 PM   #10
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It's a 351 stroked to a 396 stock block (I believe) ,victor JR heads (stock I believe),trick flow upper and lower, NX nitrous kit ,it will be mostly a track car not a daily driver but I will be driving on the road every once in a while. As far as staying with the solid roller it all depends on whats the best way to go I would hate to have to buy all the stuff to go hydr but if I need to I will unless like Edgar said to get a cam with a tight lash. The cam in the car now is a Crower cam with a Intake: dur of 290 and lift of .557 Exhaust: dur of 296 and lift of .546 . The intake lash is set at .022 exhaust is set at .024 so if I get a nitrous cam with a low lash I will keep the solid to keep expense down . I plan on spraying around 250 to 300 if the block does not split
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