Replacing a pinnion seal - Page 3

QWKSNKE · 08-10-2007, 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Italian LX

Craig is talking about the bolt that holds the pin in the carrier.

If you use a new bolt, the thread locker is already on it. If you're reusing one, just dab a little blue locktite on it and tighten with an box-end wrench. 30 ftlbs seems awfully much for that small bolt.

oops.

I thought you were just doing the seal Craig? Did you decide to disassemble the rear?

Craig K. · 08-10-2007, 05:44 PM

sorry, yes doing the seal and needed to know that torque.

Also doing the outer axle bearings, so I needed the pin bolt torque too.

The rear end started making noise on me two weeks ago.
Last weekend I check the fluid leve and it was low.
I added in a quart of fluid, but the noise is still there.

I am betting that it is the axle bearings, since it was that low, they probably went dry and got hot.

I thought about just doing a whole rebuild and putting in a gear at the same time, but I don't have the $$$ to do it now (not until the house in Hoover sells).

QWKSNKE · 08-10-2007, 08:07 PM

if the fluid was low, you toasted the pinion bearing. More than likely that is your noise

Craig K. · 08-11-2007, 01:17 AM

Well, just got 70% done with this tonight.
Change the seal (cause of leak) and the LH axle bearing and seal, was planning on doing the rh tomorrow, but now I am not sure.
The LH bearing looked fine. After seing your comment Lee, I wonder if its worth changing the rh, I'll at least pull the axle and look at it.

You have to pull the whole diff, and the pinnion flange to get the pinnion out, right?
Is the pinnion bearing pressed on?
Also when I put the pinnion nut back on, I tried to tighten it just enough, I think I may have gone a hair to fair though because rotating over on the forward direction is slightly harder than in the reverse direction, and it feels like it wants to hang up in one spot.

I may want to redo this tightening, so I may still be able to change the pinnion bearing if it is not pressed on, if I did change the bearing can I just through it all back together?

P.S. concerning the message I left last night, yes I did get the bolt out!

QWKSNKE · 08-11-2007, 07:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Craig K.

Well, just got 70% done with this tonight.
Change the seal (cause of leak) and the LH axle bearing and seal, was planning on doing the rh tomorrow, but now I am not sure.
The LH bearing looked fine. After seing your comment Lee, I wonder if its worth changing the rh, I'll at least pull the axle and look at it.

You have to pull the whole diff, and the pinnion flange to get the pinnion out, right?
Is the pinnion bearing pressed on?
Also when I put the pinnion nut back on, I tried to tighten it just enough, I think I may have gone a hair to fair though because rotating over on the forward direction is slightly harder than in the reverse direction, and it feels like it wants to hang up in one spot.

I may want to redo this tightening, so I may still be able to change the pinnion bearing if it is not pressed on, if I did change the bearing can I just through it all back together?

P.S. concerning the message I left last night, yes I did get the bolt out!

yes. the diff has to come out.
yes the pinion bearing is a pressed on item.

coupe · 08-12-2007, 08:48 PM

Man all this shit reminds me how I hate it. In this case Craig, I'm kinda glad you're 600 miles away.

Craig K. · 08-16-2007, 10:29 AM

well, the gist of it all is that due to a leaking pinnion seal, I had fried the diff. carrier bearings.

I had the bearings changed, and changed the seal, and so far so good (75 miles on it so far).

I have a slight humming noise, but it may be more tire noise (I am listening more now than before) I still have to try and diagnosis this tonight.

Two tricks that I learned
1) If the factory cast iron shims are too tight, they can be sanded down with a belt sander. Make sure you have a mic/caliper and check at four points when doing this to make sure you keep it flat.
(anyone want to buy a brand new shim kit)

2) When reinstalling a trac-lock S spring, put the spring in the freezer for about 15 minutes, I did this and it only took two tapes with a hammer to get the S spring installed.

QWKSNKE · 08-16-2007, 10:55 AM

Congrats on getting it done Craig. I figured you must have gotten finished when I didn't hear from you any this week

Craig K. · 08-16-2007, 08:41 PM

Thanks Lee (for the help and advice too, Brian and Matt too).

On the drive home today (had the top down) I heard no major noises.
Looked underneath and so far clean and dry.

I am hoping it's all a go from here, I'll let yall know if it goes south (no pun)

Craig

08-10-2007, 05:44 PM	#22
Craig K. Nothing new here Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Senoia, GA Posts: 2,990	sorry, yes doing the seal and needed to know that torque. Also doing the outer axle bearings, so I needed the pin bolt torque too. The rear end started making noise on me two weeks ago. Last weekend I check the fluid leve and it was low. I added in a quart of fluid, but the noise is still there. I am betting that it is the axle bearings, since it was that low, they probably went dry and got hot. I thought about just doing a whole rebuild and putting in a gear at the same time, but I don't have the $$$ to do it now (not until the house in Hoover sells). __________________ 1974 Triumph TR6 1985 Monte Carlo SS 1986 Mustang GT 2011 KIA Optima GTS

08-10-2007, 08:07 PM	#23
QWKSNKE 3v's are slow Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Here and There Posts: 17,152	if the fluid was low, you toasted the pinion bearing. More than likely that is your noise __________________ 2009 Porsche Carrera S 2008 ///AMG C63.. Eurocharge Tune. RIP 2019 AMG GLC43..wife's 03 F250 SD.. Edge Evo, AFE Stage 1 CAI 08 GT. JBA axle back, FRPP springs, FRPP swaybars.. daughter's 01 Cobra vert... wife's I need a new toy

08-11-2007, 01:17 AM	#24
Craig K. Nothing new here Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Senoia, GA Posts: 2,990	Well, just got 70% done with this tonight. Change the seal (cause of leak) and the LH axle bearing and seal, was planning on doing the rh tomorrow, but now I am not sure. The LH bearing looked fine. After seing your comment Lee, I wonder if its worth changing the rh, I'll at least pull the axle and look at it. You have to pull the whole diff, and the pinnion flange to get the pinnion out, right? Is the pinnion bearing pressed on? Also when I put the pinnion nut back on, I tried to tighten it just enough, I think I may have gone a hair to fair though because rotating over on the forward direction is slightly harder than in the reverse direction, and it feels like it wants to hang up in one spot. I may want to redo this tightening, so I may still be able to change the pinnion bearing if it is not pressed on, if I did change the bearing can I just through it all back together? P.S. concerning the message I left last night, yes I did get the bolt out! __________________ 1974 Triumph TR6 1985 Monte Carlo SS 1986 Mustang GT 2011 KIA Optima GTS

08-12-2007, 08:48 PM	#26
coupe Super Moderator Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 6,313	Man all this shit reminds me how I hate it. In this case Craig, I'm kinda glad you're 600 miles away. __________________ " If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough. " - Albert Einstein

08-16-2007, 10:29 AM	#27
Craig K. Nothing new here Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Senoia, GA Posts: 2,990	well, the gist of it all is that due to a leaking pinnion seal, I had fried the diff. carrier bearings. I had the bearings changed, and changed the seal, and so far so good (75 miles on it so far). I have a slight humming noise, but it may be more tire noise (I am listening more now than before) I still have to try and diagnosis this tonight. Two tricks that I learned 1) If the factory cast iron shims are too tight, they can be sanded down with a belt sander. Make sure you have a mic/caliper and check at four points when doing this to make sure you keep it flat. (anyone want to buy a brand new shim kit) 2) When reinstalling a trac-lock S spring, put the spring in the freezer for about 15 minutes, I did this and it only took two tapes with a hammer to get the S spring installed. __________________ 1974 Triumph TR6 1985 Monte Carlo SS 1986 Mustang GT 2011 KIA Optima GTS

08-16-2007, 10:55 AM	#28
QWKSNKE 3v's are slow Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Here and There Posts: 17,152	Congrats on getting it done Craig. I figured you must have gotten finished when I didn't hear from you any this week __________________ 2009 Porsche Carrera S 2008 ///AMG C63.. Eurocharge Tune. RIP 2019 AMG GLC43..wife's 03 F250 SD.. Edge Evo, AFE Stage 1 CAI 08 GT. JBA axle back, FRPP springs, FRPP swaybars.. daughter's 01 Cobra vert... wife's I need a new toy

08-16-2007, 08:41 PM	#29
Craig K. Nothing new here Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Senoia, GA Posts: 2,990	Thanks Lee (for the help and advice too, Brian and Matt too). On the drive home today (had the top down) I heard no major noises. Looked underneath and so far clean and dry. I am hoping it's all a go from here, I'll let yall know if it goes south (no pun) Craig __________________ 1974 Triumph TR6 1985 Monte Carlo SS 1986 Mustang GT 2011 KIA Optima GTS