SN95 cooling system question - Page 2

Wicked · 07-31-2005, 04:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Craig K.

OK
I checked the fan output using a mutilmeter and I get 12V when the AC is on Norm. for the fan motor low speed
I get 12V when the AC is on max on the fan motor high speed.
I verified that the fan will run both low/high using some jumper wires.

How can I trouble shoot the coolant temp sending unit, or the "black box"?

You can check the resistance of the collant sending unit. I'll see if I can find out what the resistance/temp should be.
Edit: Okay, looks like the sending unit should be 75ohms cold(room temp?) and about 10ohms hot(180-200degrees). If its bad it will be much farther off I suppose.

The black box is the CCRM, its basically a bunch of relays. If you're getting 12V to the fan connection, I don't think that's your problem. But it could be an intermittent problem.

Craig K. · 07-31-2005, 08:51 PM

Ok I checked wire 14 of the CCRM with 12 V hot and the low speed worked.
I ground wire 17 of the CCRM and the high speed came on.

So I think the CCRM is OK

I will check the ECT next (on Wednesday when I return from Detroit).

86GT · 08-01-2005, 02:57 PM

Check to see if you have an air bubble in the system. Remove the sensor and squeeze the upper radiator hose until the water level is up to the threads and then place the sensor back in.

The air bubbles can play real havoc on the sensor.

Craig K. · 08-03-2005, 03:34 PM

I had the ECT sitting in the Freezer for about 3 minutes, my thermometer read around 20F, I only got a reading of about 49.5 ohms.
I placed it in hot water over the oven next.
160F = 5 ohms
180F = 4 ohms
190F = 2.7 ohms
200F = 2.5 ohms
220F = 2.15 ohms

Based off of this I will buy a new ECT and see if it helps.

86GT · 08-03-2005, 05:50 PM

Even if it read correctly at the colder temp, it could have a dead spot in the curve.

Craig K. · 08-03-2005, 05:50 PM

Well I bought a new ECT at Napa (Dana Corp.)
I had both outside in ambient conditions, the OEM had a 22.3 ohm reading, the new one had a 21.1 ohm reading, what gives?

I also bought a new gage sending unit, and the needle on the gage was actually slightly higher reading than the OEM one had been.

Brad, you sure about those readings?

Disney Lincoln · 08-03-2005, 07:14 PM

Have you tried parking it and running it til the fan kicks on?

You can also temporaily hook up a $10 guage from Walmart to see what it is doing.

It sounds like you may have a blown HG with it going up and down so rapidly.

Craig K. · 08-03-2005, 07:22 PM

No blown HG, I have done 3 compression test with a coolant system compression tester (snap on brand) and all 3 times it held 15 psi for close to 15 minutes (one cold, one hot, one medium temp). Also no coolant loss after a 50 miles drive.

I have an autometer gage, which I will buy the adaptors which I need to hook it up.

I am going to return the sensors which I bought tonight (after I map the ECT to make sure it matches the stocker).

I have let it site and run, it gets up between the A and L, the fan will kick on and stays on until the gage goes to the M. However the fan speed feels like it is the high speed, not the low speed.
To me it doesn't seem like the low speed is coming on, even though I have proven out that the black box is good.

I may just buy a auto fan switch, screw this stuff.

Craig K. · 08-23-2005, 05:19 PM

So I finally put a gage on this car.
It slowly gets up to about 215-220 F, then the fan kicks on, and it cools down to 195-200F, then repeats this.

While the fan was on, I kicked on Max A/C, and there was no noticable change in fan speed, so I am assuming that it is my high speed that is kicking on.

Second item, the cooling system isn't pressurizing. I believe it is because I drilled the air bleed holes in the T-Stat. When I check it with my system pressurizer, it will hold 15 PSI for hours.
I am thinking that the water pump does not have the capacity to pressuize the whole system.
This weekend I will change the T-Stat with a non-drilled one to see if this changes.

One_live95 · 08-24-2005, 02:15 PM

you may actually be hurting yourself with the t-stat with holes........ Our cars run hot anyhow, if you have a chip or are gonna get one, put in a 180 stat, and have them adjust the specs for the fan to take advantage of that.

I had all these troubles for two consecutive summers, said screw it bought the fluidyne, replaced all sensors and a new waterpump. Solved my problem.

I must add that there is one of the hoses that goes to the heater core that has a flow limiter in it..... I don't know exactly why it is there, but it will limit flow going through the hose to/from the heater core( i don't think that plays a part in the cooling issues though) If you decide to replace the water pump, JEGS sells the FRPP waterpump for our cars for right at 50$...... can't be beat in my mind...

jason

07-31-2005, 08:51 PM	#12
Craig K. Nothing new here Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Senoia, GA Posts: 2,990	Re: SN95 cooling system question Ok I checked wire 14 of the CCRM with 12 V hot and the low speed worked. I ground wire 17 of the CCRM and the high speed came on. So I think the CCRM is OK I will check the ECT next (on Wednesday when I return from Detroit). __________________ 1974 Triumph TR6 1985 Monte Carlo SS 1986 Mustang GT 2011 KIA Optima GTS

08-01-2005, 02:57 PM	#13
86GT Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Sacramento California Posts: 449	Re: SN95 cooling system question Check to see if you have an air bubble in the system. Remove the sensor and squeeze the upper radiator hose until the water level is up to the threads and then place the sensor back in. The air bubbles can play real havoc on the sensor. __________________ EEC Analyzer A9M, TwEECer, 306ci, 73mm C&L w Tuner Tube, Cobra Intake, 42# inj, Edelbrock 6037, E303 cam, 155 fuel pump, FPR, 70mm TB, E-Fan, 3.55 gears, Powerdyne 9psi actual 5psi...way more.

08-03-2005, 03:34 PM	#14
Craig K. Nothing new here Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Senoia, GA Posts: 2,990	Re: SN95 cooling system question I had the ECT sitting in the Freezer for about 3 minutes, my thermometer read around 20F, I only got a reading of about 49.5 ohms. I placed it in hot water over the oven next. 160F = 5 ohms 180F = 4 ohms 190F = 2.7 ohms 200F = 2.5 ohms 220F = 2.15 ohms Based off of this I will buy a new ECT and see if it helps. __________________ 1974 Triumph TR6 1985 Monte Carlo SS 1986 Mustang GT 2011 KIA Optima GTS

08-03-2005, 05:50 PM	#15
86GT Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Sacramento California Posts: 449	Re: SN95 cooling system question Even if it read correctly at the colder temp, it could have a dead spot in the curve. __________________ EEC Analyzer A9M, TwEECer, 306ci, 73mm C&L w Tuner Tube, Cobra Intake, 42# inj, Edelbrock 6037, E303 cam, 155 fuel pump, FPR, 70mm TB, E-Fan, 3.55 gears, Powerdyne 9psi actual 5psi...way more.

08-03-2005, 05:50 PM	#16
Craig K. Nothing new here Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Senoia, GA Posts: 2,990	Re: SN95 cooling system question Well I bought a new ECT at Napa (Dana Corp.) I had both outside in ambient conditions, the OEM had a 22.3 ohm reading, the new one had a 21.1 ohm reading, what gives? I also bought a new gage sending unit, and the needle on the gage was actually slightly higher reading than the OEM one had been. Brad, you sure about those readings? __________________ 1974 Triumph TR6 1985 Monte Carlo SS 1986 Mustang GT 2011 KIA Optima GTS

08-03-2005, 07:14 PM	#17
Disney Lincoln Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 290	Re: SN95 cooling system question Have you tried parking it and running it til the fan kicks on? You can also temporaily hook up a $10 guage from Walmart to see what it is doing. It sounds like you may have a blown HG with it going up and down so rapidly.

08-03-2005, 07:22 PM	#18
Craig K. Nothing new here Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Senoia, GA Posts: 2,990	Re: SN95 cooling system question No blown HG, I have done 3 compression test with a coolant system compression tester (snap on brand) and all 3 times it held 15 psi for close to 15 minutes (one cold, one hot, one medium temp). Also no coolant loss after a 50 miles drive. I have an autometer gage, which I will buy the adaptors which I need to hook it up. I am going to return the sensors which I bought tonight (after I map the ECT to make sure it matches the stocker). I have let it site and run, it gets up between the A and L, the fan will kick on and stays on until the gage goes to the M. However the fan speed feels like it is the high speed, not the low speed. To me it doesn't seem like the low speed is coming on, even though I have proven out that the black box is good. I may just buy a auto fan switch, screw this stuff. __________________ 1974 Triumph TR6 1985 Monte Carlo SS 1986 Mustang GT 2011 KIA Optima GTS

08-23-2005, 05:19 PM	#19
Craig K. Nothing new here Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Senoia, GA Posts: 2,990	Re: SN95 cooling system question So I finally put a gage on this car. It slowly gets up to about 215-220 F, then the fan kicks on, and it cools down to 195-200F, then repeats this. While the fan was on, I kicked on Max A/C, and there was no noticable change in fan speed, so I am assuming that it is my high speed that is kicking on. Second item, the cooling system isn't pressurizing. I believe it is because I drilled the air bleed holes in the T-Stat. When I check it with my system pressurizer, it will hold 15 PSI for hours. I am thinking that the water pump does not have the capacity to pressuize the whole system. This weekend I will change the T-Stat with a non-drilled one to see if this changes. __________________ 1974 Triumph TR6 1985 Monte Carlo SS 1986 Mustang GT 2011 KIA Optima GTS

08-24-2005, 02:15 PM	#20
One_live95 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Dothan Posts: 617	Re: SN95 cooling system question you may actually be hurting yourself with the t-stat with holes........ Our cars run hot anyhow, if you have a chip or are gonna get one, put in a 180 stat, and have them adjust the specs for the fan to take advantage of that. I had all these troubles for two consecutive summers, said screw it bought the fluidyne, replaced all sensors and a new waterpump. Solved my problem. I must add that there is one of the hoses that goes to the heater core that has a flow limiter in it..... I don't know exactly why it is there, but it will limit flow going through the hose to/from the heater core( i don't think that plays a part in the cooling issues though) If you decide to replace the water pump, JEGS sells the FRPP waterpump for our cars for right at 50$...... can't be beat in my mind... jason