electrical help needed (possible alarm issue) - Page 2

Shorty · 04-24-2010, 07:11 AM

UPDATE: dome light and chime issue fixed.

please dont bother asking how cause it is far too embarrassing to post.

park lights still a legitimate issue tho. i think

UPDATE 2: trying to explore all options i went back in and started checking voltage at the harnesses in the stereo/alarm area. everything seemed fairly normal with the exception that the main acc hot shows hot with the switch on but with the switch off it shows to have a negative. test light shows both. this doesnt seem normal cause all other points positive wires arent doing this. maybe this means nothing. opinions are appreciated.

Wall96cobra · 04-24-2010, 10:19 AM

Hey Chris if you don't have it fixed in the next day or 2 I may try to get up there and help troubleshoot. I have some multimeters that will be better than a test light. Also I'm much better at actually running down wiring problems when I'm there rather than trying to tell you what to look for over the computer.

Shorty · 04-24-2010, 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wall96cobra

Hey Chris if you don't have it fixed in the next day or 2 I may try to get up there and help troubleshoot. I have some multimeters that will be better than a test light. Also I'm much better at actually running down wiring problems when I'm there rather than trying to tell you what to look for over the computer.

i appreciate that more than i have words for. i got a multi meter but no such luck finding anything with it yet either. i am sure its gonna be something so obvious when it is found, like the dome light/chime.

issue with it was that 8 was the fuse that controlled them and 7 was a spare (both 15 amp) well apparently i pulled the fuse out of 8, checked it and placed it back in 7. therefore everytime i went back thru the fuses everything looked good being as i wasnt looking for the completely obvious.

grabbinandstabbin · 04-24-2010, 03:28 PM

take the cover off the steering column and unplug the dimmer switch. if the park lamps go off get you a wiring diagram and aee what is supposed to have fire and what is not. if the lights stay on, then the problem is between the dimmer switch and the park lamps.

waypastcrazy · 04-25-2010, 08:28 AM

Just throwing something out there but here goes. It could be the hazard light circuit is on making you think it is parking lights.idk maybe unplug them. Lol I keep thinking.

Shorty · 04-27-2010, 10:43 AM

ok. what i have learned. i found that there is voltage on a black/light blue wire at the dimmer which as best i can tell should be ground. i am basing my info on the schematic which is attached here. this wire also leads back to ignition switch at which point it is negative. here is the odd thing, when i turned the ignition "on" you could tell that something wasnt right with the chime and such. checking further i have found that particular wire becomes energized at the switch also once the ignition is turned "on". havent pinpointed it down yet but i am thinking that there is a bad ground (at something not constantly active, ie not a dome light) causing that wire to be energized in the direction of the lights. then with ignition "on" and that component active it is allowing that negative charge to continue traveling to the ignition switch. does any of this make sense.

thanks

grabbinandstabbin · 04-27-2010, 09:20 PM

the ground for the front lights is ,ounted on each side at the top of the core support. it should have a green screw with a 7mm head. don't remember any of the wires on the dimmer switch being a ground, but i could be wrong.

Shorty · 05-05-2010, 12:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by grabbinandstabbin

the ground for the front lights is ,ounted on each side at the top of the core support. it should have a green screw with a 7mm head. don't remember any of the wires on the dimmer switch being a ground, but i could be wrong.

issue was at the dimmer switch,,,,,,,,,,,,,kinda. the grounding caused a harness to burn dividers and energize a ground source which was keeping the lights hot. which also tied into the ignition buzzer, so when the ignition was switched on it was allowing positive voltage to back track up a ground to the switch causing more issues. finally chased it down, made some repairs to that portion of the harness and all is good now. well except i still need a clutch, throw out bearing, etc.

finding the wrong currents at the dimmer was what narrowed it down along with the ignition switch thing. i hate wiring.

thanks to everyone.

wiring=

04-24-2010, 07:11 AM	#11
Shorty Pr0j3ct P1mp T1t3, y0! Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Somewhere wondering why Crimson stole my avatar Posts: 2,022	UPDATE: dome light and chime issue fixed. please dont bother asking how cause it is far too embarrassing to post. park lights still a legitimate issue tho. i think UPDATE 2: trying to explore all options i went back in and started checking voltage at the harnesses in the stereo/alarm area. everything seemed fairly normal with the exception that the main acc hot shows hot with the switch on but with the switch off it shows to have a negative. test light shows both. this doesnt seem normal cause all other points positive wires arent doing this. maybe this means nothing. opinions are appreciated. __________________ 93 GT----225rwhp/287rwtq--------1/4 mile= (but getting better) Last edited by Shorty; 04-24-2010 at 07:57 AM.

04-25-2010, 08:28 AM	#15
waypastcrazy ADDICTED TO SMALL BLOCKS Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: lookout mt Posts: 1,757	Just throwing something out there but here goes. It could be the hazard light circuit is on making you think it is parking lights.idk maybe unplug them. Lol I keep thinking. __________________ http://alabamaopencarry.com/forum/index.php One of StreetStangs class clowns! Status:slow as hell! NORTH EAST ALABAMA STANGS

04-24-2010, 10:19 AM	#12
Wall96cobra ooooo cake!!! Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Saks, AL Posts: 1,630	Hey Chris if you don't have it fixed in the next day or 2 I may try to get up there and help troubleshoot. I have some multimeters that will be better than a test light. Also I'm much better at actually running down wiring problems when I'm there rather than trying to tell you what to look for over the computer.

04-24-2010, 03:28 PM	#14
grabbinandstabbin Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: UCLA Posts: 68	take the cover off the steering column and unplug the dimmer switch. if the park lamps go off get you a wiring diagram and aee what is supposed to have fire and what is not. if the lights stay on, then the problem is between the dimmer switch and the park lamps.

04-27-2010, 09:20 PM	#17
grabbinandstabbin Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: UCLA Posts: 68	the ground for the front lights is ,ounted on each side at the top of the core support. it should have a green screw with a 7mm head. don't remember any of the wires on the dimmer switch being a ground, but i could be wrong.