QA1 K-member and A-arms.

96GTS · 02-24-2005, 01:15 PM

Crap

First of all, when I put it on, my pass tire was toed in BAD. So I manually adjusted the tie rod end to get it good enough to take it to the alignment shop. After getting it straight, there was only ~ 1" of thread inside the rod end.

So I go to work and afterwards I'm walking to my car and it looks kind of weird. I look at it from down low head on and the whole driver wheel is stuck out like an inch from my previous setup. The pass side was fine.

Also, the bushings on the A-arms suck IMO. Too spongy and the body roll was probably 3x worse than my D&D setup. My front wheels were rubbing on every turn, no matter what speed. The QA1 leans more with the swaybar than the D&D setup does WITHOUT a sway bar!

I also dont like how they make you grind the head of the rear A-arm bolts to clear the K member.

Heres a pic showing the pass and driver side wheels. Look at how the top of the pass tire is tucked in normal. Also notice the difference in how much tread sticks out. both pics were taken from the door handle.

Put the D&D back in and I'm much happier.

coupe · 02-24-2005, 01:43 PM

Taylor (at Walker dynotune) has the QA1 with stock A arms. Loves it.
Tell me: does the D&D work with factory struts, A arms, oil pan, steering rack???

96GTS · 02-24-2005, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coupe

Taylor (at Walker dynotune) has the QA1 with stock A arms. Loves it.
Tell me: does the D&D work with factory struts, A arms, oil pan, steering rack???

The D&D works with the stock oil pan and steering rack. Dont know if it works w/ the stock A-arms. Never tried it. Do the factory struts work w/ C/Os? If they do, then it will work. I have Lakewood 90/10s.

CrazyInBlack · 02-24-2005, 04:58 PM

man that pic trips me out

Wickd GT · 02-25-2005, 07:08 AM

The QA1 k member puts the tires out a bit more and about an 1" foward, giving the car a bit more of wheel base, for it to work you need to have a good set of Caster camber plates to align right. If you read the instructions it tells you that the k member puts the wheels that way. I have a QA1 on mine and that is the first thing I noticed and got me set of HP caster camber plates and that was all it tooked, I have stock a Arms on mine. If you installed the tubular a arms you need to tight them with the weight of the car on the suspension then do your hight before you take it to the aligment shop, I mean if you have coil overs. That is why your tied rod ends will not get into the same way there were with your D&D K member, it puts the tire out and futher to the front. About the bolt at the back been grind that is no problem, mine has not moved at all, and it has been there for about 2.5 years.

Edgar

NightHawk756 · 02-25-2005, 09:15 AM

Yeah, I had a QA1 in my coupe. I also had to grind the bolt heads to get them to fit. But I also ran into problems using the stock a-arms with mine. Although I can't seem to remember what the problems was. I ended up using their c/overs, struts and a-arms. I specifically didn't like the mounting "tabs" for the a-arms. That's why I have an AJE coming for my '95. The a-arm is actually incorporated into the k-member not on flimsy tabs.

But I agree with Edgar, the alignment problems I had with the QA1 were simply adjusted with my Maximum Motorsports C/C plates.

96GTS · 02-25-2005, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wickd gt

The QA1 k member puts the tires out a bit more and about an 1" foward, giving the car a bit more of wheel base, for it to work you need to have a good set of Caster camber plates to align right. If you read the instructions it tells you that the k member puts the wheels that way. I have a QA1 on mine and that is the first thing I noticed and got me set of HP caster camber plates and that was all it tooked, I have stock a Arms on mine. If you installed the tubular a arms you need to tight them with the weight of the car on the suspension then do your hight before you take it to the aligment shop, I mean if you have coil overs. That is why your tied rod ends will not get into the same way there were with your D&D K member, it puts the tire out and futher to the front. About the bolt at the back been grind that is no problem, mine has not moved at all, and it has been there for about 2.5 years.

Edgar

You didnt read it right. It pushed ONLY the driver's side out. The pass side was fine (see the pic).

I have MM C/C plates and the shop that does it did all my dad's SCCA cars (along with many of the project cars for Nissan Motorsports) when he was out here so the errors were not in the alignment. It drove perfect, just looked like crap. And like I said before, it had way too much body roll compared to the delrin(i think) bushings in the D&D kit.

Purple1995Pony · 02-25-2005, 03:24 PM

maybe you just got a retarded reject???

are you using OE a-arms or tubular w/C/O?

not enough information about your car to process it all....

96GTS · 02-25-2005, 03:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Purple1995Pony

maybe you just got a retarded reject???

are you using OE a-arms or tubular w/C/O?

not enough information about your car to process it all....

Quite possibly, but its enough to keep me from ever buying one again. Because of the circumstances in which I got it, it was free, but if I were to of bought it, I would be out $700. That is enough for me to say it sucks.

Craig K. · 02-26-2005, 05:42 AM

So what are you going to do with it, perhaps you could give it over to me for free, I'll pay for shipping

02-24-2005, 01:15 PM	#1
96GTS Mine's bigger... Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: SoCal Posts: 1,060	QA1 K-member and A-arms. Crap First of all, when I put it on, my pass tire was toed in BAD. So I manually adjusted the tie rod end to get it good enough to take it to the alignment shop. After getting it straight, there was only ~ 1" of thread inside the rod end. So I go to work and afterwards I'm walking to my car and it looks kind of weird. I look at it from down low head on and the whole driver wheel is stuck out like an inch from my previous setup. The pass side was fine. Also, the bushings on the A-arms suck IMO. Too spongy and the body roll was probably 3x worse than my D&D setup. My front wheels were rubbing on every turn, no matter what speed. The QA1 leans more with the swaybar than the D&D setup does WITHOUT a sway bar! I also dont like how they make you grind the head of the rear A-arm bolts to clear the K member. Heres a pic showing the pass and driver side wheels. Look at how the top of the pass tire is tucked in normal. Also notice the difference in how much tread sticks out. both pics were taken from the door handle. Put the D&D back in and I'm much happier. __________________ 323rwhp \| 320rwtq - 4VNA 12.13 @ 113.36 \| 1.63 60'

02-24-2005, 01:43 PM	#2
coupe Super Moderator Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 6,313	Re: QA1 K-member and A-arms. Taylor (at Walker dynotune) has the QA1 with stock A arms. Loves it. Tell me: does the D&D work with factory struts, A arms, oil pan, steering rack???

02-24-2005, 04:58 PM	#4
CrazyInBlack Crusin... Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Various Places in Middle AL Posts: 3,542	Re: QA1 K-member and A-arms. man that pic trips me out __________________ Liberal education has nothing to do with liberal or conservative politics. Liberal education is the simple idea of a broad and well-rounded course of study in the humanities, social sciences, sciences, and the arts. The overarching goal is to liberate the mind from ignorance and superstition.

02-25-2005, 07:08 AM	#5
Wickd GT Friends Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,645	Re: QA1 K-member and A-arms. The QA1 k member puts the tires out a bit more and about an 1" foward, giving the car a bit more of wheel base, for it to work you need to have a good set of Caster camber plates to align right. If you read the instructions it tells you that the k member puts the wheels that way. I have a QA1 on mine and that is the first thing I noticed and got me set of HP caster camber plates and that was all it tooked, I have stock a Arms on mine. If you installed the tubular a arms you need to tight them with the weight of the car on the suspension then do your hight before you take it to the aligment shop, I mean if you have coil overs. That is why your tied rod ends will not get into the same way there were with your D&D K member, it puts the tire out and futher to the front. About the bolt at the back been grind that is no problem, mine has not moved at all, and it has been there for about 2.5 years. Edgar

02-25-2005, 09:15 AM	#6
NightHawk756 Si vis pacem, para bellum Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Tick-Tock, Tick-Tock....... Posts: 5,146	Re: QA1 K-member and A-arms. Yeah, I had a QA1 in my coupe. I also had to grind the bolt heads to get them to fit. But I also ran into problems using the stock a-arms with mine. Although I can't seem to remember what the problems was. I ended up using their c/overs, struts and a-arms. I specifically didn't like the mounting "tabs" for the a-arms. That's why I have an AJE coming for my '95. The a-arm is actually incorporated into the k-member not on flimsy tabs. But I agree with Edgar, the alignment problems I had with the QA1 were simply adjusted with my Maximum Motorsports C/C plates. __________________ 1989 Saleen SSC 1988 AL DPS SSP

02-25-2005, 03:24 PM	#8
Purple1995Pony Friends' Dad/Dad-in-Law Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Taunton, MA Posts: 510	Re: QA1 K-member and A-arms. maybe you just got a retarded reject??? are you using OE a-arms or tubular w/C/O? not enough information about your car to process it all.... __________________ 95 GT Vert 01 F350 SD *06 300C Hemi AWD*

02-26-2005, 05:42 AM	#10
Craig K. Nothing new here Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Senoia, GA Posts: 2,990	Re: QA1 K-member and A-arms. So what are you going to do with it, perhaps you could give it over to me for free, I'll pay for shipping __________________ 1974 Triumph TR6 1985 Monte Carlo SS 1986 Mustang GT 2011 KIA Optima GTS