11-29-2007, 01:06 PM | #21 |
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But it still does all come down to the tune as said before...plus knowing when to let out of it.
If he is planning on leaving the stock bottom end as is i would just throw bolts in it.
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11-29-2007, 01:47 PM | #22 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
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11-29-2007, 01:49 PM | #23 |
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well if bolts are just as good as studs....why the heck do they make both
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11-29-2007, 01:53 PM | #24 |
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Here’s why. When you use bolts to secure the head, the fastener is actually being “twisted” while it’s being torqued to the proper reading. Accordingly, the bolt is reacting to two different forces simultaneously. A stud should be installed in a “relaxed” mode – never crank it in tightly using a jammed nut. If everything is right, the stud should be installed finger tight. Then, when applying torque to the nut, the stud will stretch only on the vertical axis. Remember, an undercut shorter stud will have a rate similar to a longer, standard shank stud. This provides a more even clamping force on the head. Because the head gasket will compress upon initial torquing, make sure studs and bolts are re-torqued after the engine has been run.
I copied this from another site....direct from an ARP engineer
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11-29-2007, 02:58 PM | #25 | |
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There is a common misconception that you can get away with a lot more torque on a stud than a bolt...and it's simply not true. I've heard people say you should tighten a regular 302 7/16" stud to 100 ft. lbs! Although it can physically be done, it's not good for the 7/16 threads because the proof load is too high for the "fastening connection." I think we're on the same page Brian.
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11-29-2007, 06:39 PM | #26 |
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baaah what is torque anyway, other than a rude method of trying to calculate clamp load which is what really matters.
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11-29-2007, 09:21 PM | #27 |
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True. But it's difficult to measure stretch in the bolt when one end is down in the block!
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12-12-2007, 09:56 PM | #28 | |
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With that said it also depends highly upon the type lubricant used on the load bearing surfaces of the fastener.
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12-13-2007, 04:53 AM | #29 |
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I am sure most of you know that on a SBF the way the intake bolts down it tries to lift the upper side of the head so be totally aware of all things when building.Torque specs are to be followed but I have allways torqued upper and lower head bolts the same just because of the intake and I will double and tripple check when using lots of power adder.
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12-13-2007, 05:23 AM | #30 |
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Speaking of these ARP studs. I bought these Iron GT 40s and they have the sleeve adapter to use the 7/16 stud, looks like these heads were on a 351eng which uses the 1/2" stud. My question is, do I need to put ARP washers when I'm ready to put these together or is these sleeve adapter for the heads at the top don't need a washer.
Edgar |
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