1997 v6 to 1999 v8 swap troubles - Page 3

onegreedy · 09-12-2006, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spoiled

Sounds like you are good to go.

I am doing a GT swap in my 2000 hopefully by next summer. I have almost all the parts. just have to get a rad fan and an engine basically.

Good luck and keep us posted on how it goes.

Travis

She is up and running, sounds great, just need some little things now

ac condenser, wiper motor, powersteering pump,

QWKSNKE · 09-12-2006, 01:46 PM

If you want to do a writeup about your swap (including problems you may have encountered) do it, and I'll put it in the site FAQ section

onegreedy · 09-14-2006, 12:12 PM

she is running good, after 3 months countless hours and alot of cuts and bruises and money

we have a few small problems still,

#1 headlights still dont turn on will check fuses tonight turn, brake, and parking light work

#2 i need to get all the indash wiring into place its still hanging out with the kick pannels off

#3 power steering pump was bad from sitting for 2 years with no fluid in it, installing tonight,

#4 this is an old problem after i installed drilled and slotted rotors with carbon metalic pads , the brakes felt worse and worse every day, even now i have to literally stand on the petal to get it to stop, gonna go back to stock for now , and figure if its the pad or rotor problem

#5 need to get 8.8 rear end, single wheel burn outs suck! !

she rides good though, sounds great, ( only h pipe still)

i have to give mad props to jms chips for the sct tuner with a nice tune and pats and rear o2 delete( www.jmschip.com ) shane really helped me out and knows alot about stangs!

mythewood motors in huntsville al ( larry) was very patient and a great guy
with all the probems, still didnt charge me a dime more tha his original quote!

and prestige auto recycling, for the over night parts and didnt gouge me any more than they usually do!

i am doing a complete write up, but will take a few days to finish it

thanks

onegreedy · 09-15-2006, 10:02 AM

1997 mustang v6 conv auto to 1999 mustang gt conv auto

First I will list the parts that were required to do this swap
Major components
Engine
Transmission
Drive shaft
***********
wiring

Engine wiring harness
Ecu wiring harness
Body wiring harness
Dash wiring harness( has fuse box connected
Door wiring harness
Under hood wiring harness (has under hood fuse box connected and ccr)
Center console wiring harness
Turn signal harness
******************
Fuel system

Gas tank
Gas tank filler neck
Gas lines from engine to tank
Charcoal canister
Air pump on pas fender
Various fuel lines and hoses
Fpr
***********
Components needed
Gem module( general control module)
Constant control relay module
Ecu
Fuel relay ( trunk)
Srs relay and srsair bags
Abs compressor
Radiator
Overflow tank
Hydramatic brake system( mounting holes are different size needed to redrill out)
Power steering Lines
brake booster
master cylinder
various relays
I did not use it but it is easier to just get a dif steering collum( because of pats and turn signal switch)
Turn signal switch
Gauge cluster
Exhaust system
Cruise control module and cable
Throttle cable
Air filter set up
4.6 exhaust

********
First off let me say if you are planning to do this, you better have a lot of knowledge on cars and the working of newer cars get something like alldatadiy or a mfg manual

Also prepare to have your car down for an extended amount of time

Mine was down 3 months mostly for waiting for parts to come in and trying to figure stuff out

My total cost is 4800.00 for the entire swap

This is a basic break down
All hard parts I listed above 1750

Wiring 600

Labor 1750( does not include my personal labor of about 100 hours)

Sct tuner 400

Eibach lowering springs 200.00

Ok for swap

First remove everything

I mean engine trans wiring dash interior ect until you have a stripped car

Then put it on a lift and remove entire fuel system be careful , gas tank is heady if anything inside it but even if just a little it is awkward to take down( recommend 2 people)
Fair warning, do not pull or cut any wires 1 broken wire will cause you hours and hours of headaches

Ok I was lucky because all my parts were removed from the other car for me

But if your doing from car to car first do the v6 ( swap to car) car first, put all the parts aside then as you remove parts off donor car install them onto the other car

You will notice things different, like the door pin connectors for your dome lights, the fuse block does not fit in the old spot because it’s a different size ect

Other than that the body of the 1997 and 1999 were almost identical( but not 1 wire was the same) and wiring was perfect(note 1994-1998 h pipes are a different angle than 1999-2004 buy the h pipe based on the body not the motor)

Ok onto my swap

We pulled all the 3.8 stuff out pretty simple kept everything just incase we needed anything

Installed 4.6 and all accessories wiring, ac, abs, cooling ect
Everything fits, we did have to drill a few holes to mount things
But the harnesses fit into the same positions, engine trans and drive shaft fit right in and bolted right up to the 7.5 rear end
Dash wiring connected to the ac system, but I cannot find a wire for my clock, its ok who needs a stupid clock anyways

Headlights and turn signals were just plug and play,

Note 1 big problem was mounting the fuse box and gem module
I used a small cut off wheel and trimmed the metal to fit the fuse box, then installed it, gem module is zip tied to the kick panel

Air bags are disconnected would need to get 1999 airbags and the sensors to make them work

Since the pats system on the steering wheel for the 1999 was completely different than the 1997 and I didn’t want to tow my car there just to get them to charge me 300.00 for the pats system, so we went to jms http://www.jmschip.com for a sct tuner to bypass the pats and turn off the rear o2 sensors also added a nice tune to the car.

Went to start the car and hit 2 problems
The constant control relay module was buzzing, thanks to some help from a local ford guy I found out it only buzzes when it is not grounded properly so we knew we had a break somewhere in the wire, instead of taking days to find that wire we just tapped it near the relay box and grounded it to the body directly got instant power , tested for spark and tested to see if fuel pump was priming , then final test was fuel pressure.

At this point we were ready to crank her,With only an h pipe,

We cranked her over but nothing , she just spun but didn’t kick

Tried a little either and she started right up
So we knew it was fuel,

Injectors were stuck, all 8 of them

So we pulled them off and cleaned and cycled them , stock them back in and she started right up THEN dam a fuel leak
Shut her off and looked around, someone stuck the rubber line onto the steel line but forgot to put the little plastic clip so she popped off, fixed her and she started right up

Just needed to bleed the brakes and make sure everything was tightened up on her

Now a few pointers
1.When you start to put things on the car, tighten them up as you go, you may thing you will get back to them later, but you will forget there are too many components going on so tighten as you go( its better to tighten them and have to loosen them instead of forgetting and something falling off later)
2. do not pull on your wiring harness, it may seem strong and you may thing its ok, but we somehow broke a ground and never found it, also the previous owner pulled off the turn sig wire when they took out all the old wiring, so we needed to fix that
3.dont try to just make stuff fit, it wont, even if it does it don’t mean it will make the proper connections

Many people will say for 4600.00 I could have went out and bought a 1997 gt ,

But let me tell you

I now have a 1997 gt convertible with only 88,000 miles on the body, it has a 99 pi engine, a sct tune h pipe rear o2 deletes,and eibach springs( 1997 gt and v6 use the same rotors and calipers, 1999 gt uses same rotors but different calipers)and I know the car very well now

So lets say I went out and bought a 1997 gt, then I did a pi head and intake swap 800-1200 dollars, sct tuner 400.00 h pipe 200-350

That’s 1400-1800

Plus the 4600
So in the long run I did save money,

Yes I do still need a 8.8 rear end, but in the mean time , my gt will get great gas mileage

If anyone is interested in doing this swap,
Mythewood motors in Huntsville al is a great shop
Talk to larry 256-881-4111

09-12-2006, 01:46 PM	#22
QWKSNKE 3v's are slow Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Here and There Posts: 17,152	If you want to do a writeup about your swap (including problems you may have encountered) do it, and I'll put it in the site FAQ section __________________ 2009 Porsche Carrera S 2008 ///AMG C63.. Eurocharge Tune. RIP 2019 AMG GLC43..wife's 03 F250 SD.. Edge Evo, AFE Stage 1 CAI 08 GT. JBA axle back, FRPP springs, FRPP swaybars.. daughter's 01 Cobra vert... wife's I need a new toy

09-14-2006, 12:12 PM	#23
onegreedy Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Posts: 12	she is running good, after 3 months countless hours and alot of cuts and bruises and money we have a few small problems still, #1 headlights still dont turn on will check fuses tonight turn, brake, and parking light work #2 i need to get all the indash wiring into place its still hanging out with the kick pannels off #3 power steering pump was bad from sitting for 2 years with no fluid in it, installing tonight, #4 this is an old problem after i installed drilled and slotted rotors with carbon metalic pads , the brakes felt worse and worse every day, even now i have to literally stand on the petal to get it to stop, gonna go back to stock for now , and figure if its the pad or rotor problem #5 need to get 8.8 rear end, single wheel burn outs suck! ! she rides good though, sounds great, ( only h pipe still) i have to give mad props to jms chips for the sct tuner with a nice tune and pats and rear o2 delete( www.jmschip.com ) shane really helped me out and knows alot about stangs! mythewood motors in huntsville al ( larry) was very patient and a great guy with all the probems, still didnt charge me a dime more tha his original quote! and prestige auto recycling, for the over night parts and didnt gouge me any more than they usually do! i am doing a complete write up, but will take a few days to finish it thanks

09-15-2006, 10:02 AM	#24
onegreedy Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Posts: 12	1997 mustang v6 conv auto to 1999 mustang gt conv auto First I will list the parts that were required to do this swap Major components Engine Transmission Drive shaft ********* wiring Engine wiring harness Ecu wiring harness Body wiring harness Dash wiring harness( has fuse box connected Door wiring harness Under hood wiring harness (has under hood fuse box connected and ccr) Center console wiring harness Turn signal harness ************** Fuel system Gas tank Gas tank filler neck Gas lines from engine to tank Charcoal canister Air pump on pas fender Various fuel lines and hoses Fpr ********* Components needed Gem module( general control module) Constant control relay module Ecu Fuel relay ( trunk) Srs relay and srsair bags Abs compressor Radiator Overflow tank Hydramatic brake system( mounting holes are different size needed to redrill out) Power steering Lines brake booster master cylinder various relays I did not use it but it is easier to just get a dif steering collum( because of pats and turn signal switch) Turn signal switch Gauge cluster Exhaust system Cruise control module and cable Throttle cable Air filter set up 4.6 exhaust ******** First off let me say if you are planning to do this, you better have a lot of knowledge on cars and the working of newer cars get something like alldatadiy or a mfg manual Also prepare to have your car down for an extended amount of time Mine was down 3 months mostly for waiting for parts to come in and trying to figure stuff out My total cost is 4800.00 for the entire swap This is a basic break down All hard parts I listed above 1750 Wiring 600 Labor 1750( does not include my personal labor of about 100 hours) Sct tuner 400 Eibach lowering springs 200.00 Ok for swap First remove everything I mean engine trans wiring dash interior ect until you have a stripped car Then put it on a lift and remove entire fuel system be careful , gas tank is heady if anything inside it but even if just a little it is awkward to take down( recommend 2 people) Fair warning, do not pull or cut any wires 1 broken wire will cause you hours and hours of headaches Ok I was lucky because all my parts were removed from the other car for me But if your doing from car to car first do the v6 ( swap to car) car first, put all the parts aside then as you remove parts off donor car install them onto the other car You will notice things different, like the door pin connectors for your dome lights, the fuse block does not fit in the old spot because it’s a different size ect Other than that the body of the 1997 and 1999 were almost identical( but not 1 wire was the same) and wiring was perfect(note 1994-1998 h pipes are a different angle than 1999-2004 buy the h pipe based on the body not the motor) Ok onto my swap We pulled all the 3.8 stuff out pretty simple kept everything just incase we needed anything Installed 4.6 and all accessories wiring, ac, abs, cooling ect Everything fits, we did have to drill a few holes to mount things But the harnesses fit into the same positions, engine trans and drive shaft fit right in and bolted right up to the 7.5 rear end Dash wiring connected to the ac system, but I cannot find a wire for my clock, its ok who needs a stupid clock anyways Headlights and turn signals were just plug and play, Note 1 big problem was mounting the fuse box and gem module I used a small cut off wheel and trimmed the metal to fit the fuse box, then installed it, gem module is zip tied to the kick panel Air bags are disconnected would need to get 1999 airbags and the sensors to make them work Since the pats system on the steering wheel for the 1999 was completely different than the 1997 and I didn’t want to tow my car there just to get them to charge me 300.00 for the pats system, so we went to jms http://www.jmschip.com for a sct tuner to bypass the pats and turn off the rear o2 sensors also added a nice tune to the car. Went to start the car and hit 2 problems The constant control relay module was buzzing, thanks to some help from a local ford guy I found out it only buzzes when it is not grounded properly so we knew we had a break somewhere in the wire, instead of taking days to find that wire we just tapped it near the relay box and grounded it to the body directly got instant power , tested for spark and tested to see if fuel pump was priming , then final test was fuel pressure. At this point we were ready to crank her,With only an h pipe, We cranked her over but nothing , she just spun but didn’t kick Tried a little either and she started right up So we knew it was fuel, Injectors were stuck, all 8 of them So we pulled them off and cleaned and cycled them , stock them back in and she started right up THEN dam a fuel leak Shut her off and looked around, someone stuck the rubber line onto the steel line but forgot to put the little plastic clip so she popped off, fixed her and she started right up Just needed to bleed the brakes and make sure everything was tightened up on her Now a few pointers 1.When you start to put things on the car, tighten them up as you go, you may thing you will get back to them later, but you will forget there are too many components going on so tighten as you go( its better to tighten them and have to loosen them instead of forgetting and something falling off later) 2. do not pull on your wiring harness, it may seem strong and you may thing its ok, but we somehow broke a ground and never found it, also the previous owner pulled off the turn sig wire when they took out all the old wiring, so we needed to fix that 3.dont try to just make stuff fit, it wont, even if it does it don’t mean it will make the proper connections Many people will say for 4600.00 I could have went out and bought a 1997 gt , But let me tell you I now have a 1997 gt convertible with only 88,000 miles on the body, it has a 99 pi engine, a sct tune h pipe rear o2 deletes,and eibach springs( 1997 gt and v6 use the same rotors and calipers, 1999 gt uses same rotors but different calipers)and I know the car very well now So lets say I went out and bought a 1997 gt, then I did a pi head and intake swap 800-1200 dollars, sct tuner 400.00 h pipe 200-350 That’s 1400-1800 Plus the 4600 So in the long run I did save money, Yes I do still need a 8.8 rear end, but in the mean time , my gt will get great gas mileage If anyone is interested in doing this swap, Mythewood motors in Huntsville al is a great shop Talk to larry 256-881-4111