99LS1
01-27-2005, 09:06 AM
Not that anybody will need this, but I need to write everything down before I forget and in the off chance anybody was curious :D Total install took about 2 hours at a slow pace, can be down in an hour. Pics will be added later.
Some general info. 264/264 is a good upgrade, that's why I did. Had I not gotten such a good deal on the cams I would have bought 264/272. Bigger exhaust cam really helps, but it's not necessary to have a 272 on the intake side. 264/272 gives you the most power w/o a horrible idle. 272/272 would be basically a race set up best a 50/57/60 trim. 264/264 works great on 14b/16G/18G. If I was going 20G/50-trim on the street I'd go 264/272.
1. Remove timing belt cover (3 10mm bolts)
2. Remove spark plug cover bolts (5 10mm bolts).
3. Remove valve cover bolts (I think there's 14 10mm bolts).
4. Put the engine at TDC, both marks should be pointed up w/ the crank pulley pointer at zero.
5. To keep tension off the timing belt, screw the tensioner tool (MD998738 ) in the side of the timing cover facing the firewall. Keep tightening until it bottoms out, and this will give you some slack to move the cam gears around w/o needing to pull the timing belt. If you don't have a tensioner tool, you can take the driver side battery tie down bar off, tap it about 2/3rd the way up, and use it.
6. Put 2 zip ties on each cam gear, securing the belt to the gear so a tooth doesn't slip.
7. On the intake side, Unbolt the CAS (2 12mm bolts), or just loosen the bolts and push it out of the way.
8. Loosen the cam gear bolts, and to hold it in place put an adj. wrench on the cam.
9. Starting in the middle, undo the caps. They're all 12mm. They're numbered and keep the caps + bolts in order.
10. Push the cam gears out until you can lift the cam out.
11. Put new cam seals on, we didn't and mine leaked. Good insurance. Some RTV can be used but it's not necessary.
12. Use assembly lube on the lobes.
13. Reinstall cam, only goes one way bc of the dowel pin. Slide the cam gear back over the dowel pin, you might need to put the caps back on and working across, tighten each down to push the cam back down.
14. Once cam is fully seated and the gear is back on, tighten caps to 14ftlbs.
15. Cam bolt tightens to 75 ftlbs, use loc-tite.
16. Same goes for exhaust side.
17. Remove tensioner tool.
18/ Remove zip ties
19. Reinstall valve cover.
20. If cams are new, pull MPI fuse and turn motor over 2-3 times for 10-15 intervals.
21. Check timing and enjoy
:banana:
Some general info. 264/264 is a good upgrade, that's why I did. Had I not gotten such a good deal on the cams I would have bought 264/272. Bigger exhaust cam really helps, but it's not necessary to have a 272 on the intake side. 264/272 gives you the most power w/o a horrible idle. 272/272 would be basically a race set up best a 50/57/60 trim. 264/264 works great on 14b/16G/18G. If I was going 20G/50-trim on the street I'd go 264/272.
1. Remove timing belt cover (3 10mm bolts)
2. Remove spark plug cover bolts (5 10mm bolts).
3. Remove valve cover bolts (I think there's 14 10mm bolts).
4. Put the engine at TDC, both marks should be pointed up w/ the crank pulley pointer at zero.
5. To keep tension off the timing belt, screw the tensioner tool (MD998738 ) in the side of the timing cover facing the firewall. Keep tightening until it bottoms out, and this will give you some slack to move the cam gears around w/o needing to pull the timing belt. If you don't have a tensioner tool, you can take the driver side battery tie down bar off, tap it about 2/3rd the way up, and use it.
6. Put 2 zip ties on each cam gear, securing the belt to the gear so a tooth doesn't slip.
7. On the intake side, Unbolt the CAS (2 12mm bolts), or just loosen the bolts and push it out of the way.
8. Loosen the cam gear bolts, and to hold it in place put an adj. wrench on the cam.
9. Starting in the middle, undo the caps. They're all 12mm. They're numbered and keep the caps + bolts in order.
10. Push the cam gears out until you can lift the cam out.
11. Put new cam seals on, we didn't and mine leaked. Good insurance. Some RTV can be used but it's not necessary.
12. Use assembly lube on the lobes.
13. Reinstall cam, only goes one way bc of the dowel pin. Slide the cam gear back over the dowel pin, you might need to put the caps back on and working across, tighten each down to push the cam back down.
14. Once cam is fully seated and the gear is back on, tighten caps to 14ftlbs.
15. Cam bolt tightens to 75 ftlbs, use loc-tite.
16. Same goes for exhaust side.
17. Remove tensioner tool.
18/ Remove zip ties
19. Reinstall valve cover.
20. If cams are new, pull MPI fuse and turn motor over 2-3 times for 10-15 intervals.
21. Check timing and enjoy
:banana: