Pushrod rebuild

[QWKSNKE]

A discussion….

Interested to see some other views on this. I am ready to start removing the the motor out of the 93 and start its rebuild. I will be using the OEM block and plan to stay at the power level I am at. I know, I know.. do not start beating me over the head, but I simply can not afford to buy an aftermarket block for this car and the 94 (when the time comes). I am looking to build the motor myself ( actually DSP will).

Since I am keeping the OEM block, should I just use Autozone/Advance Auto parts pistons, rods, rings, and bearings to rebuild the motor OR buy a complete rotating assembly kit from CHP, D.S.S, etc. I was actually looking at a D.S.S. long rod 306 balanced rotating assembly kit.

I expect that I could buy the parts from Advance/Autozone for around $500-$600 (unbalanced of course) vs. the D.S.S. balanced long rod which would be around $1330 including shipping. I am also considering swapping over to a 28 oz balance vs the stock 50 oz.


The only thing I am unsure of, is how much it is going to cost to balance the above mentioned 'cheap' parts. I have a feeling that it will expensive.

[joker]

Originally Posted by QWKSNKE

A discussion….

Interested to see some other views on this. I am ready to start removing the the motor out of the 93 and start its rebuild. I will be using the OEM block and plan to stay at the power level I am at. I know, I know.. do not start beating me over the head, but I simply can not afford to buy an aftermarket block for this car and the 94 (when the time comes). I am looking to build the motor myself ( actually DSP will).

Since I am keeping the OEM block, should I just use Autozone/Advance Auto parts pistons, rods, rings, and bearings to rebuild the motor OR buy a complete rotating assembly kit from CHP, D.S.S, etc. I was actually looking at a D.S.S. long rod 306 balanced rotating assembly kit.

I expect that I could buy the parts from Advance/Autozone for around $500-$600 (unbalanced of course) vs. the D.S.S. balanced long rod which would be around $1330 including shipping. I am also considering swapping over to a 28 oz balance vs the stock 50 oz.


The only thing I am unsure of, is how much it is going to cost to balance the above mentioned 'cheap' parts. I have a feeling that it will expensive.

Personally, I would go with the forged rotating assembly. With it at least you would have the piece of mind that you have good internals, instead of the stock hyper pistons our cars come with.

[96GTS]

I think...you should send me some DSP decals for my ride.


I could've dropped the stock 5.4 in, but you're seeing which route I'm taking, so I think you know my answer.

And for my own information, what benefit does going from a 50oz to a 28oz balancer have? Whats the point?

[Craig K.]

If you are thinkin gof buying cheap, look at PAW in California.

I have rebuilt engines using their cheap parts for only a few hundred dollars, though this was in Highschool.

I personnely would think a balanced 306 long rod kit could be had for less than $1300. If you want I can check with my engine builder in Illinois, he has always given us very good deals, and uses good parts.

[svopaul]

I can hook you up with deals on quality parts...I personally would shy away from Advance and contact PAW or Columbus Engine Rebuilders if you want to try to go the cheapest route.

But in reality with a 5.0 HO engine I have rebuilt a few using the same pistons(provided the specs are in line) just pattern hone, new rings and bearings. Balancing should run you about $150...ofcourse depending where you go.

[Craig K.]

Hey Lee,

I just spoke with my friend Ray at R&R Motorsports (618-438-3903) about some prices/options.

These are just ball park, since I was not sure exactly what you wanted. I also got some of his machining prices as well.

316 cid, 5.400" H-beam rods, 4340 crank, JE fordge pistons, file fit rings, clevite 77 race bearings (crank and rods) balanced $1823.

325 cid, I-beam rods (I think) cast steel crank balanced $1573

347 cid, I-Beam rods, fordge pistons, cast steel crank, balanced $1450

Ray charges $200 for balance (I added this to the prices above already), around $45 for cam bearings installed, $180 for bore/hone with torque plate, around $175 for crank journals aligned honed.

If you have any questions, by all means give Ray a call, tell him that I sent you.

[Shorty]

i know summitt has a kit with sealed power forged pistons, rings, freeze plugs, gaskets, bearings, oil pump. pretty much everything for the bottom end. i am not sure how quality all of it, but it is bound to be as good as the stock stuff. compression ratio for the forged is 10.13, so i dont know how that will work with your boost level. anyway the whole kit is $470. dont sound like a bad deal.

shorty,


i have used that kit several times and have absolutely no complaints on it at all.those c/r numbers are figured with a 58cc head as well.


here is my opinion.

get a good set of pistons and rings
have the stock rods checked and put in some good bolts
have the crank cheaked and either buy a new one or reuse what you have
use good main studs and a girdle
use the afr's
ditch the cobra intake for a systemax

[Wicked]

Originally Posted by Shorty

i know summitt has a kit with sealed power forged pistons, rings, freeze plugs, gaskets, bearings, oil pump. pretty much everything for the bottom end. i am not sure how quality all of it, but it is bound to be as good as the stock stuff. compression ratio for the forged is 10.13, so i dont know how that will work with your boost level. anyway the whole kit is $470. dont sound like a bad deal.

I second that. I used a summit kit when I built my motor. It will have everything you need. Reuse your old rods and crank. If you went aftermarket on any part of the rotating assy I would say rods first, although the stockers are damn stout. Stock pistons will do fine. I spent $420 when I bought my Summit kit in 1998, and spent $347 on machine work including rebuilding the heads(bronzevalve guide, seals, valve job, machining) and balancing.

[QWKSNKE]

Originally Posted by 96GTS

And for my own information, what benefit does going from a 50oz to a 28oz balancer have? Whats the point?

I am thinking going from 50 oz imbalance to a 28 oz imbalance will cause the motor to be smoother. Am I correct If not, please let me know because I am looking at several hundreds of $$$$$ to do this.

Interesting views. the discussion come up today between me and a few people and 2 of the views was to basically use the OEM replacement rotating assembly because the block goes before the rotating assembly. But i am at boost limits of my rods according to Edgar.

96GTS. If you really want some decals we can probably arrange it.